Motor is back in and Im getting everything back togeather. On the RHS dicharge tube its hitting the AC line. The one with the large part near the compressor. What did you guys do here?

 

I don't have my car right now to double check, but it seems you have routed that line incorretly. I don't remember having any lines running up in that area. I think it would be ran below and on the outer side of the intercooler piping.

 

What all did you do the the bottom end? My Z is going into the shop on monday to get greddy TT & wisco pistons , crower rods. The shop, which is not a machine shop is going to put the engine back together. Should I be worried if they cannot machine the pistons & rods to be perfectly balanced? I guess my question is... is it possible to rebuild the bottom end and be reliable by simply putting the "nuts & bolts" back together?

 

No. You should overbore the cylinders a bit on a 'used' motor. Like .02 or .01. From my knowledge, you should never put stock bore pistons in a rebuild. Beyond that, you might be able to get away from any further machining.

 

my car only has 13K miles, will it still need to be overbore?

 

Yes!!! Booger had stock bore pistons put in a very low mileage motor when SGP bulit his motor. Even SGP thought they could get away with just a light hone. It didn't work...the motor was very noisy and is being rebuilt as a courtesy by SGP. With these motors you should use a 10 thousandths or 20 thousandths overbore psiton at a minimum. Sorry to the bearer of bad news.

 

Thanks for the advice! Is there anything else I should be concerned about?

 

I'm getting an exedy twin disc clutch, greedy boost gauge, Helix delete pipes, Greddy E-01 boost controller Greddy type R BOV, Greddy fuel pressure gauge, Motor sports wide band. Is this list incomplete?

 

Well thats not a pic of my install its anothers on this site. Mine was under that pipe but fit worse so I started looking on the net and found that pic.

 

This is all it says in the instructions
Compressor Discharge Duct – LHS – DIAGRAM – FMI/01

Bend the air conditioning hose from the compressor vertically towards the engine, so that the rubber hose has 3/8” clearance from the air conditioning compressor pulley.

 

**** heres another one. See how its butting up with those ac line. Looks like its the same on every pic I find but it just doesnt seem right.

 

I just talked to the shop that is doing my work. They said they will measure the clearance b/t the cylinders and the stock pistions & if it is within specs then I won't need to go to an overbore piston. Should I just go ahead and tell them to go to an .01 overbore?

 

You can probably get away with using the stock bore pistons.....but it will be a noisy motor and the piston to cylinder wall clearances will not be ideal for the different expansion levels of the forged pistons. Clearances for the stock cast aluminum pistons are always different from the forged aluminum pistons.
If you tell the shop to overbore the block then you will need new pistons made for the overbore size you are going to use. The problem with these motors is that you get taper in the bores....they get wider at the top...regardless if the motor is a 5000 mile motor. To do this build right you should use a new overbore piston for sure. No doubt in my mind.

 

Thanks again! When you are spending this much money, what is another $500 bucks to do it right and do the overbore!