Comes with its very own trailor hitch and trailor

 

Water injection was used in WWII to avoid detonation in supercharged aviation engines. This was a great way to cool down the mixture and increase the HP gains BUT water injection, with prolonged use, will result in rusted piston rings.

Verdict:

pro: Cool idea for racing
con: Nobody wants a rusty trombone I mean piston ring. I mean EITHER of them!!! hahahaha

 

OMG BWHAHAHAHHA

 

the piston rings can't get rusty can they? Isn't everything in the engine aluminum for the most part and that by the time the water reaches the piston chamber it's already vaporized

 

most of it will escape in the expulsion of the gasses but definitely not all of it.

 

But you think water will linger on the piston long enough to cause rust when the chamber is igniting 50-110 times a second?

I know it actually cleans the oil residue off of the valves and the rest of the internals

 

I do not believe anything will rust. Rust takes time and is a result of oxidization. The oil will also put a protective coat on the rings. IF and thats a big if if I may say so myself haha that you happen to spray somehow while the car is shut off and it sits over night then MAYBE and a small maybe it could form some surface rust. But that would be whipped clean as soon as you turned the engine over, altho causing damage...I still doubt it could happen tho

 

All I can say is that's why they stopped using water injection in the aviation industry. If rust ocurrs at 10,000 feet with air being alot thinner I would think it would happen exponentially as you get closer to sea level.

 

deliverd in 2 days!
payed on saturday, here on tuesday

packaged nicely.
I also bought a 2.5 gallon gas tank & painted it hammered aluminium (silver).
I'm going to install it in my trunk. Off to the left, along with the pump.

 

I finally installed my kit last week. Works good, my EGTs are reduced an average of 50F. No noticeable difference in power, as I did not have knock or timing retard before.

 

I noticed some difference with a 30/70 methanol/water mix, but an incredible difference when I bumped the methanol to 80%+ (Walmart had a sale on HEET).

Even with my lead foot, I'm only having to refill about every 2 weeks. Add the new PCV valve and catch can, I've almost completely resolved the detonation issue I had experienced.

 

I just found the $299 Coolingmist kit on ebay without a tank for $219 shipped direct from Coolingmist! This is perfect for those of us wanting to use the washer fluid tank anyway.
If anyone is looking for this kit there are 7 more for sale in the same auction.

 

Can you post your source for this information?

 

I am interested in one of these kits for when I supercharge my Z. Which kind of kit would I need, I plan to be around 400hp? I use my Z as a daily driver, I was thinking of buying a small tank and tap the bottom of my washer fluid tank to feed into the top of the smaller one then out to the pump therefor when my low level light comes on I know that I need to refill but don't run the risk of running dry since I have a small reserve tank giving me plenty of time to go to the nearest gas station. Another question, could I use regular windshield washer fluid in this setup or strictly meth and water mixture. I think washer fluid would be easier since all gas stations sell it and I can still use my old tank to clean the windshield? I will be using a utec with my setup should I tune it with the WI or w/o and have it as an extra insurance to prevent detonation, I guess maybe another option would be to have one map programmed with and one without then I could just switch depending on what im doing? Any comments would be greatly appreciated, this stuff is still pretty new to me, thanks!

 

subscribe

 

what product are u using? what is it called..mixture? details

thanks

TODD

 

i just ordered mine as well.........plan to use washer fluid tank and plumb a bigger tank into that.......

 

Alright, call me an newb, but I am trying to figure out what most of the guys here on the boards are using the Water/ Methanol Injection systems for: Extra HP/TQ or Extra Insurance against detonation or Simply to reduce intake/egt temps?

I am just starting to research this and in my situation, I do not need more HP, or detonation protection (if tuned conservatively I think both should be well under control) but am primarily concerned with reducing temps during the hot/humid summers here in DC & Florida.

I already have the DEI Cry02 system for race days and my high boost setting. I am expecting my low/ daily driven boost setting to be between 10 - 15 psi or between 500 -> 600 whp and my race setting to be upwards of 22- 26 psi depending on turbo efficiency.
--B

 

The reason I installed it was for road racing to keep my temperatures under control using the turbo during the summer in the Southeast. As a secondary bonus, it also works as a back up to prevent detonation.

 

Everything is kind of related... Lower intake temps will lead to less risk of detonation and more HP. The methanol will bump the octane of the fuel, which will make the engine less prone to detonation and allow you to pull less timing, possibly making some extra HP. If you only want to reduce intake temps, you might even be ok to just run 100% water.

On the Cryo2 system, how do you avoid getting the CO2 in the intake? I'm hacing a huge problem with that...

Thanks

Danny