What 1/4 times are you getting?
Originally Posted by Sharif@Forged
Nice...looks like I need more practice. I know a 1.7 is doable on drag radials..without enough practice. 

Cartest spit out 11.19@129.86 if you pulled a 1.70 60'
And cartest is usually within about 1 tenth and 1 mph of what you actually can run. Get some slicks for that badboy....
Shariff
How about round numbers 10.9@130 sounds so good....
Not bad for a suspension set up for Canyon Runs....

Cheers Amy
-
Originally Posted by Sharif@Forged
Nice...looks like I need more practice. I know a 1.7 is doable on drag radials..without enough practice. 

I don't know how much access you have to getting an alignment frequently....but if it's no big deal...dialing out a good amount of that neagtive camber in the rear will help you put down a lot more of the 295mm contact patch on the DRs...
the alignment adjustment bolts on the rear suspension are those offset style ones that you can loosen, turn, then tighten to effect the alignment... and there is a line on it to mark the direction it faces.... Next time I go to the track I was going to try and scribe a mark on the crossmember at the direction they currently face, and then adjust them to remove as much camber as I can... then after I race I can turn them back to the marks I made.
However I fear that my alignment shop probably has those adjusted all the way in that direction.... SO my plan B is to go back to the alignment shop and have them set the alignment with the offset bolts in the most negative camber angle, and use my JIC arms to set the alignment.... and then I will have full travel off the offset bolts to set my camber to as close to zero camber as it will allow (but i have no idea how many degrees of adjustment that offset bolt provides).
No idea if it will work, and even less of an idea of if I made any sense at all in my post!
However I fear that my alignment shop probably has those adjusted all the way in that direction.... SO my plan B is to go back to the alignment shop and have them set the alignment with the offset bolts in the most negative camber angle, and use my JIC arms to set the alignment.... and then I will have full travel off the offset bolts to set my camber to as close to zero camber as it will allow (but i have no idea how many degrees of adjustment that offset bolt provides).
No idea if it will work, and even less of an idea of if I made any sense at all in my post!
Car test is one the greatest programs ever I think. Its a great tool, but is also fun to just mess with. I think BriGuyMax actually "knows" how to use it though, unlike me.
Hope you can see those low 11's soon Sharif
Hope you can see those low 11's soon Sharif
I have camber bars in the rear, and they are pretty much maxed out to achieve negative 1.5 camber. I really think I just need more seat time, as I have made a grand total of 25 passes down a 1/4 mile track my entire life! I am more of a road racing track type person.
Another option is raising up the rear with the Tein Flex's. Thats a pretty easy operation to do.
Another option is raising up the rear with the Tein Flex's. Thats a pretty easy operation to do.
Originally Posted by Sharif@Forged
I have camber bars in the rear, and they are pretty much maxed out to achieve negative 1.5 camber. I really think I just need more seat time, as I have made a grand total of 25 passes down a 1/4 mile track my entire life! I am more of a road racing track type person.
Another option is raising up the rear with the Tein Flex's. Thats a pretty easy operation to do.
Another option is raising up the rear with the Tein Flex's. Thats a pretty easy operation to do.
Originally Posted by BriGuyMax
Can you go higher than stock ride height?
Originally Posted by Sharif@Forged
Good question. There is quite a bit of thread on that colar....probably at least stock height. The front is super low, so it will be a good stance, I would like.
Try it out next time at the track
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Colombo
Forced Induction
35
Nov 9, 2020 10:27 AM





