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Officially NA (Vortech Drama Continues)...need help!!

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Old Nov 18, 2005 | 02:49 PM
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Default Officially NA (Vortech Drama Continues)...need help!!

Ok guys. I drove to Orlando and had a reputable shop take a look at my Vortech. The bearings inside the blower is the culprit of the awful rattle. I will have to return after the thanksgiving break to have them take it off and ship it to Vortech.

In the meantime, I took off the cog belt and am running NA. I have some new questions:

First off...simultaneously, I installed an Injen TD exhaust to replace the stock one. My car feels REALLLLLLLLLy slow. I mean....like taking 8+ seconds to run to 60mph. I dont hear an exhaust leak. WTF. The serpitine belt of the Vortech still spins and whines. Would this robbing of some horespower and adding a TD exhaust make my car bog down like that??? I would love to hear from you guys that have gone NA temp. by taking the cog off. DOes it bog you down worse than a stock G?

Secondly...even running NA, my EGTs get up to 1400-1500 on hard runs. Also...my a/f hits all the way down to 11.0. Should a NA car be hitting 11.0 and 1400-1500 egt at 6200 rpms?

Any help would be great guys. My main concern is how bogged down my car is. I hope it is the combination of the s/c (not the blower) still spinning and the new TD exhaust. Does the fact that my CAI is now a like a 7 foot tube (I guess it has to go through all that Vortech piping still).

Please help. I think something may be wrong.
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Old Nov 18, 2005 | 04:03 PM
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replied over at G35driver
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Old Nov 18, 2005 | 05:02 PM
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Most likely the cause is you are trying to pull air through a supercharger that is not charging. This will choke the intake.
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Old Nov 18, 2005 | 05:08 PM
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Also your timing has been lowered since you've gone boost. More timing = more power and danger.
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Old Nov 18, 2005 | 05:21 PM
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Like I said at G35driver . Your blower isnt turning now and the only air your getting is thru the BOV . Disconnect the IC pipe at 45 degree bend before the MAF and put a foam filter over it . Also turn the pipe towards the fender . The SS box should be ok being hooked up . Just take out the in line fuse from the aux. fuel pump . You may run rich for a while because the ECU is used to getting more air . Might want to reset the ECU so it will adjust sooner
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Old Nov 18, 2005 | 05:44 PM
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Just curious how many miles you have on the blower, and if you have a smaller blower drive pulley or the standard one.
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Old Nov 18, 2005 | 06:54 PM
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i have the 3.12 pulley and I have had it about 3 months and 5000 miles. Thanks booger for your help.
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Old Nov 18, 2005 | 07:14 PM
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Originally Posted by g8tor20
Ok guys. I drove to Orlando and had a reputable shop take a look at my Vortech. The bearings inside the blower is the culprit of the awful rattle. I will have to return after the thanksgiving break to have them take it off and ship it to Vortech.

In the meantime, I took off the cog belt and am running NA. I have some new questions:

First off...simultaneously, I installed an Injen TD exhaust to replace the stock one. My car feels REALLLLLLLLLy slow. I mean....like taking 8+ seconds to run to 60mph. I dont hear an exhaust leak. WTF. The serpitine belt of the Vortech still spins and whines. Would this robbing of some horespower and adding a TD exhaust make my car bog down like that??? I would love to hear from you guys that have gone NA temp. by taking the cog off. DOes it bog you down worse than a stock G?

Secondly...even running NA, my EGTs get up to 1400-1500 on hard runs. Also...my a/f hits all the way down to 11.0. Should a NA car be hitting 11.0 and 1400-1500 egt at 6200 rpms?

Any help would be great guys. My main concern is how bogged down my car is. I hope it is the combination of the s/c (not the blower) still spinning and the new TD exhaust. Does the fact that my CAI is now a like a 7 foot tube (I guess it has to go through all that Vortech piping still).

Please help. I think something may be wrong.

I had to have the blower rebuilt also before I sold it. It had a diffrent sound but same problem. Good luck I hope you will be happy when this is all taken care of.
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Old Nov 19, 2005 | 02:59 AM
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I'm wondering if some blower bearing failures are the result of the oil nozzle clogging. Did you guys check the nozzle before sending the blowers back to Vortech? Vortech requires blowing out the nozzle with pressurized air every 3000 miles.

Apparently, a number of folks on this board either don't do that or never heard of it. I just bought a second nozzle ($39 plus shipping) to have one to swap out while I thoroughly clean out the other one. I've been cleaning the nozzle with every oil change--three oil changes now. It's a pain in the a$$ but I'm nervous about the tiny orifice at the end of the nozzle getting clogged leading to sudden bearing failure.
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Old Nov 19, 2005 | 06:59 AM
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what does the oil nozzle llook like?
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Old Nov 20, 2005 | 01:15 PM
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It's a brass nozzle that screw into the base of the blower on the driver's wheel-well side and attaches to the braided oil feed line. Inside it is a hidden fine-screen filter that attempts to keep tiny debris out of the small orifice on the end of the nozzle. Its purpose is to spray oil on the bearings and if it gets clogged the bearings will immediately fail.
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Old Nov 21, 2005 | 08:22 AM
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Originally Posted by gersteinp
It's a brass nozzle that screw into the base of the blower on the driver's wheel-well side and attaches to the braided oil feed line. Inside it is a hidden fine-screen filter that attempts to keep tiny debris out of the small orifice on the end of the nozzle. Its purpose is to spray oil on the bearings and if it gets clogged the bearings will immediately fail.
Does someone have a pick of this? I can't picture it right now. Also, how do you clean it out?
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Old Nov 21, 2005 | 09:24 PM
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Originally Posted by KraftG35
Does someone have a pick of this? I can't picture it right now. Also, how do you clean it out?
There's no need for a picture. It's the brass fitting going into the blower that attaches to the end of the braided oil feed line. You can only access it by removing the wheel well plastic cover (left front).

I've got a new way of cleaning it--soaking it in paint thinner for a few minutes and then blowing it out with compressed air from the orifice side. I just use a bicycle pump. My presumption is that the screen deep in the nozzle can get gunked up and that this will removed the deposits. You want to blow it out opposite to the flow of oil.
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