ok, i finally got nissan to plug my car into the consult-2 after 2 months of asking. what the tech came back with was at idle and low load conditions the motor was running super lean (156%) on bank-1 for cyl.1,3,5. and on bank 2 it was running rich (84%) which is the side my aem wideband is in so i always figured my car was running rich all around. btw, 100% is 14.7 a/f using this scale.
1. ok, now the technical stuff. there was no change in volt readings from the front to the rear 02 sensor in each side, so it eliminates the chances of a bad 02 sensor. bank 1 read 0.03v on both sensors and bank 2 read 0.95v on both sensors.
2. maf volts was correct for the rpms and load with no jitters. besides, a bad maf would make both banks rich or lean.
3. i have already tested 2 sets of injectors in the car with one set known for sure to work properly, so it eliminates bad injectors.
4. the plugs currently in the car are also known plugs that work.
5. i have already tested all of my vaccuum lines with no leaks and did a leakdown test on the entire intake manifold starting from the maf, and no intake leaks at all either.
6. there is no trouble codes coming from the ecu at all except for the occasional po300.
7. the car runs like crap during part throttle cruise conditions, and my wideband shows rich during these times, like of chart or 11-1 and lower from bank 2.
8. wierd part here now, it runs good upon accel and my a/f comes back to around 13-1 and runs smoothly and has a ton of power

about the only thing i can think of is the fact that one of the cams was installed one tooth off and it comes back to running correctly once the cam timing is advanced when i am alittle higher in rpm and the accelerator is pushed down more. now the cam sensors are only checking the intake cams and the ecu would pick up a difference between bank 1 and bank 2. so this is basically leaving me with the fact bank 1 exhaust cam is off one tooth. this seems to be about the most logical answer, but this isn't my first rodeo and i spent alot of time making sure they were installed correctly. even cranking the motor over by hand and making sure all cam events were happening at the times they were supposed to and in relationship to eachother.
i may also have a clog in the cam advance soleniod they may be keeping the cam advanced and open to oil pressure, but i think the ecu would see that due to it being able to read the intake cams and would see a difference in the 2.


really just looking for any other possible ideas someone may come up with to check.

 

Stock plenum air distribution is not that great. Many guys have detonated their motors on 1,3, and 5 before from running leaner on that bank. Under acceleration I would think the boost is compensating for the normal distribution problems in the plenum, just by being pressurized, and is giving you a balanced reading. If a cam was installed a tooth off you would have a cell instantaneously and the car would run like crap off the bat. There was a forum member about a year ago who did that and it was VERY noticeable....and he bent the valves.

 

when putting the motor together, i printed off the pages i thought i would need and took them to my shop. i do remember there are 2 different markings on all the cam gears. circles and ovals, each 180degrees from eachother. i know now i did not print off the page that states, use the ovals to line up the left bank and circles to line up the right bank. i do not remember 100% if i used one mark to line up both sides or if it is even possible to do that. if it is possible and that is what was done, then i am 1/2 of one tooth off on the exhaust cam. i am guessing it to be advanced and getting too much overlap and passing some of the mixture out the exhaust valve. then when the intake cam advances it brings it back within a correct cam timing.
if someone made a reader that would be able to read the stock ecu, i would have had the lean bank 1 information a long time ago and fixed this issue. will be pulling it back apart and checking all the cam gears with all the hope in the world this is the problem and the car will run good now.

 

if that was the case both banks will have the same issue. I was having the same problem with my car n/a after cams and I advanced the timing 2 degrees with a raised idle of 750rpms using the consult and it seems to fix the problem.

 

Pull the plugs and see if they show signs of being lean on that bank.

My guess is that they'll show rich, which means you have an air leak before that banks 02-sensor causing the lean reading so the ECU will try and compensate by increasing injector pulsewidth.

Did you get the Consult printout of injector duty cycle/pulsewidth?

 

both banks would not have the same problem if it was set up this way. meaning both banks using all the circle marks to line it up or all the oval marks to line all of them up. only one exhaust cam would be out of spec, cause the intakes are timed with the crank. then separate chains tying the intake cam to the exhaust cam. i just specifically remember looking at the correct amount of overlap when spinning the motor over. but if it was off 1/2 tooth, it might have been hard to tell. plus the lower comp pistons may have given me the clearance to make it possible.

 

no didn't get a print out of the pulsewidth. the tech really had no interest to look at my car and made me feel as though i was lucky he was looking at it even though i was paying them and it was slow. he is the main reason i had to keep calling for 2.5 months to even get it on the consult2, and yes i have gotten the same responce from other dealers in my area. my point being, i wasn't going to ask him to print out alot of stuff. he was using the consult for about 20 mins, so i would hope if there was a huge difference in the i/j pulse, he would have seen it.
there is no leaks at all, it is super quite under hood, besides for the most part back pressure forces air out and bairily any will enter back into the exhaust, especially enough to create the super lean condition i have.
really the cam being off is about the last thing possible in a long list of tests i have done over the last couple months. if it isn't the cam, then it can only be the ecu.

 

check this. problably your issue. http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/51124/

 

That's a common misconception and I've read similar symptoms. Noise isn't a good indicator.

Good luck!

 

well i do have a degree wheel and dial indicator for doing small blocks. but not too sure how you would accomplish moving a single cam or all for that matter with out extensive machine work in the vq35. then there comes the whole trick of trying to get ahold of all the specs that are needed to check it with "the wheel"

 

thanks, i may need a little luck. i really doubt a leak is present as the exhaust manifolds, turbos, and downpipes were all put on with the motor out of the car and with lock washers and loctite and i have only a little over a hundred miles on the car since all was done.
i for sure will post what the prob ends up being to help others if they get the same prob.

 

holy hell!!!! finally done and all is working perfectly. it wound up that even though the cam gears are indexed and marked identical, they were switched. so the right intake cam gear was on the left side and vice versa. didn't think it would make a difference but switched them anyways. on start up though and driving last night it is perfect now. could not have been more than a couple degrees off. unfortuneately, they do not mention in the shop manuals that they are different. it is possible to do a cam install in 9 hours though, lol.

 

So you're now completely done?

 

honestly, is anyone every really done, hahaha. but ya the car is running almost perfect now. need to get it to a dyno to get it perfect. i am using the a/f target map on the eu and it seems to work really good. my a/f has been right on as to what i have set in the a/f target map. and right now i am being really conservative as far as timing till i hit the dyno. looking forward to being a 600+rwhp club member very shortly, lol!!

 

lol, true about never being done...

I actuall meant did you fix all of the little kinks now, but I just didn't word it clearly... anyways, it must've been quite an experience doing most of it yourself. I kept up with most of you're threads, and its been an interesting read. Good luck joining the 600+rwhp club.

 

ya i have had a very interesting time with this car, from problems getting the correct parts or complete bolt kits (3 times) and getting one bad e-blue and a bad eu to installing the intake cam gears incorrectly. this project was slated for 3-4 weeks. it has gone on for almost 5-6 months.
if someone had a scanner that would read out all the stock ecu's functions like the consult2, this project would have only taken a month and would have figured it out right away. but now it is almost finished and am having a blast driving it!! it is satisfying to know i did all the work, minus the machining. the car starts, hot or cold, exactly like stock and has awesome drivability now, and will sh it and git when you roll on the gas. i was proving that last night when i was spinning the rear tires in 4th gear with just a roll on throttle and boost down at 12psi. can't wait to hit the dyno and see how well the heads flow with all the porting i did.

 

im having the same problem with an 03 altima right now. is there anyway to tell which cam gear is supposed to be which? the dealer is telling me that the part number is the same for both so i dont see how there could be a difference.

 

how is this even possible? IIRC from my install, each cam is a slightly different length so you should not be able to swap them.

Oh well, sounds like all is better now. Glad to hear you got your issue worked out.

 

the cams were all in the correct spots, it was the front timing gears on the intake cams that were switched. besides, the exhaust cams are shorter than the intakes, but both intake and both exhaust cams are the same lengths. the color markings on each intake and exhaust cams though do not match the factory service manual for placement though on the nismo cams. kinda weird.
my intake cam gears don't have the same part #. i held them side by side and they are indexed the same way and all the same markings though so to the eye they are identical. my only guess is that it has something to do with the way the cams advance. it appears to only adjust by a piston that takes the slack out of the intake/exhaust cam timing chain. but there must also be some movement in the intake gears themselves. so they were advancing in the wrong directions.

 

still wasn't enough though to have any valves come in contact with a piston, maybe the lower comp pistons helped that.