APS kit - safest and most complete out of box. Only thing you need to buy is an exhaust, gauges, and spark plugs. OEM fit and feel. Greddy doesn't allow you to use your front impact beam and uses oil as the only cooling on the turbos. APS allows fitment of the oem impact beam and uses oil and water cooled tubos.

There really is no such thing as low boost when you are talking about converting a n/a motor to a boosted one.

A good install and tune will cost you near 2500 bucks on the APS setup.

 

alright thanks. what about the aps single turbo? does that have pretty good power potential and is that a pretty complete kit? or turbonetics?

 

you are going to start a TN/APS war with a question like that. You want specifics why I like APS over a given kit, you can pm me.

APS ST is good for about 400 whp and is just as complete out of box as their TT setup. I have driven both the APS TT (my car) and a APS ST (locals car) and both cars feel awesome. The ST has a bit more lag, but makes boost really quick and pulls strong at about 9.5 psi.

Install and tune on the single kit will save you maybe a grand vs the TT setup.

 

thanks, are most st setups capable of comparable numbers to tt setups, its just that they dont spool quite as quickly? can i still further tune and modify a st setup for 500+/- whp? sorry for the q's but i wanna make sure i make the right choice. how bad is the lag, really noticeable?

 

no for turbo-

buy turbo-

waiting install-

turbo installed-

first drive-

after first drive-

 

First off, you have ANY idea what 350 whp or 400 whp feels like in a Z? Now I ask you do you have any idea what 450 whp feels like in a Z? and now I ask you to try to imagine 500+ whp!
BIG HP, but WHY?

In terms of lag, I was referencing it against a TT setup which essentially has NO lag what so ever. The ST lag is NOT bad. The power you get when you strap a turbo or two on these cars is just mind blowing insanity. You have absolutely know idea what you are in for.

My dyno for reference - if you can't see it very well, I have 300 wtq at 2300 RPMS and 300 whp at about 3400 RPMS on my TT setup - THERE IS NO LAG. Comparing the ST car to mine, yes, there is a bit of lag, but nothing you would really feel.


Some TN guys are seing mid 400's but I wouldn't recommend the TN setup for many reasons - none of which need to be listed here.

about 400 whp is where most get to with the APS kit. You might see 420-430+, but that wold be pushing it a bit.


There are guys pushing over 500 whp with the APS TT on stock block. I think most would agree, that 500 whp is kind of pushing your luck on a stock motor. If you want 500+ whp with any sort of peace of mind, you are talking at least a 20 grand investement
7500 APS setup
1500+ exhaust and test pipes
600-1000 gauges
5,000-10,000 built motor
400 radiator
200-500 oil cooler
1200 utec (map sensor solenoid)
1000 return style fuel system
550 injectors
DR and new tires to use the power
800 upgraded half shafts
1200-2000+ clutch/fywheel setup
install
Tune
and probably a lot more

You start talking 500 whp and the whole game changes. Like I said, it can be done with the APS kit out of box with a decent exhaut, but not something I would try unless you had the money for a motor build lying around.

For an 18 yr old kd, you will more than have your hands full if you got to 350whp (the new C6 vettes put down about 330 whp for reference). you get to 400+ whp and you have a dangerous car.

my car dynos at 450 whp and 480 wtq and I can get the tires spinning doing 60 mph on the highway.

 

yeah 425whp in a gutted out z is freakin insane(i love race cars)

 

haha alright awesome, zivman i dk if you answered but with your setup are you on stock internals? also, should 400 +/- whp be safe on aps st of tt setup with stock internals and will the setup out of the box get me there? and would you say tt or st yourself personally? is tt worth the extra grand?

 

my car has a built lower end with 8.8:1 compression. I just ran out of fuel on the top end for my car to be 500 whp. I was dissapointed at first since we thought closer to 500 whp would be my numbers, but after driving the car, it is more than enough power for me. With out DR, and upgraded half shafts, it is basically unusable. there is no reason for me to upgrade fuel system, injectors, and EMS for a measily 50-75 whp when I can't use the power I have now.

The grand you save on a ST vs TT is ONLY on install. The TT setup will easily be $3000 more:
ST = 5800
TT = 7500
Difference of 1700

ST exhaust = 1000
TT exhaust = 1500 (catback + test pipes)
Difference of 500

ST install = 1500
TT install = 2500
Difference of 1000

Add those up, and you are at a $3200 difference right there. Is it worth it? That's up to you.

ST, you will be fine at 400 whp or even a bit more
TT, I think 450 whp is the most I would want to run on a stock block

 

thanks for all the help guys i know my questions are probably pretty rediculous. 2 more simple questions. you say the st setup is 5800, ive seen it http://performancenissanparts.com/ca...c3c4bc54792e4f here for 5550. is it missing something or is that just a better price than you've seen. also, whats the loudest / best sounding BOV on the market in your opinion. lastly, the single turbo exhaust you say is 1g, that's still a dual exhaust right?
thanks

 

1 st my car is with stock bottom. I bought this kit with this in mind. I felt this was the best and safest kit for me. I have know plan to build the motor unless I have to. My car is a daily driver I put the kit on at 30k I have 13k on it now with zero problems. When you add all the xtras for the greddy kit to make it as safe as the aps the difference is about $500. Also if you need to replace the clutch some places will charge more for the greddy because of the wastegates it takes longer to do. I think zivman really covered your questions pretty well and gave you his honest opinion. I agree with him. Which ever way you go don't let the internet sales people talk you into what they sell and make more money on. They may seem to have your intrest at heart, but there pocket is what counts. Or they try to sell because they can't tune what you want.
2) I don't beat my car to death either. I've only been to the track twice. Like zivman said until you drive a 400+ hp Z you don't know what it is like. Everyone throws numbers out like it was nothing. I see your form the north east. Do you have something for the winter to drive in the snow? I'm from NYC and this car with FI will be a handful and a half with ice and snow. That is something else you have to think about. Where in the north are you?

 

The exhaust splits after the mid pipe. Also you loose the cats. Do you need to hve the car inspected and put on the sniffer? If you do then I would say TT is the way to go you can retain your cats or remove test pipes and put back your cat for the test. This is some more food for thought. Befroe I would replace the BOV I would listen to it first for a while. Check out the place for the install if they sell the kit you may get a compete package from them and they can discount it accordingly. One other thing you may find things cheaper else where but if there is a problem then any kind of warranty they may give you won't exisit. Like you bought it there so now you have to pay to have parts removed and replaced. Don't be penny wise and dollar foolish with the money your spending this is something else to think about.

 

Nothing is missing from the kit on performance nissan's site. Only thing is, they are not an authorized dealer of APS- don't know if that matters to you or not.

In terms of loudes and best BOV, well, you don't want my real opinion on that question. The APS BOV is plenty loud and will attract more than enough attention. All a BOV is an something that screams:


The ST exhaust is a split single exhaust. When you have a ST, you only have one exhaust feed. The only feed is off the one turbo. The APS single turbo exhaust splits that single feed into duals.

Pics:
Split point looking towards the back of the car:


a full exhaust shot:

 

alright thanks for all the help. what if i do get the sniffer emissions test with a single turbo? will i be fined, or worse and is there any way around this? haha and i know what you mean about being an attention ***** with the BOV i just want to be able to hear it.

 

on the ST, the only way I would think you could pass the sniffer is if you find a place accepts bribes or you have a shop make you a custom setup with a huge cat in it.

JWT and APS are working on CARB certs for their TT setups. TN ST has the option of a HFC, but as I stated, there are many reasons I wouldn't recommend the TN setup.

Do you have emissions testing in your state? Usually, even if you do have emissions testings, new cars are exempt for the first 4-6 yrs or so.

 

Where in the north east are you?

 

Ct

 

yea i gotta find out if theres a sniffer test in CT, either way i think aps st is the right one for me. thanks guys. btw anyone have any vids of aps st?

 

APS ST Vid

This is not real representative of a WOT, but you get a feel for the exhaust note and BOV.

 

A buddy of mine on this forum bought an APS TT kit and had it for like 6 months before it got installed. He was getting so disgusted with the fact that he spent all this money on the TT kit and had nothing to show for it that he was seriously considering just selling it. Well I talked him out of that, he eventually got it installed, and he says it was definately worth the wait. The difference between a stock Z and one that is a full 2 seconds and almost 20mph faster through the 1/4 mile is pretty incredible, and definately worth it if you are into going fast.