Ok, so I had the car dyno'd and the car according to the HKS PRO-DEALER "TUNER" shop, says that I am running super lean 16:1 at 5500RPM...Of course they could not give me a read out of the AFR, "our computer does not log them" ... and only 267 at the wheels. I think they are crazy, but hey they are the "TUNER'S" hmmm.. I noticed when I got in my vehicle that the sensor lights were on, mind you not blinking, but contstant: SEL, ABS, 'VDC'...so here is my explanation (in my mind). SEL light comes on because they took out the O2 sensor to put their wide band in (explains why they don't have a print out of the AFR's readily available); next ABS, K, the rear wheels are turning and the front one's aren't moving..makes sense, at least in my mind; next the VDC? it made me wonder if they had turned the VDC off during the run. So I ask the sales rep " did the tech remember to turn off the traction control?" and of course they were offended and answered yes...hmmm can't think of any other thing that would trip that sensor. So question for those of you that have dyno'd your cars, did the VDC light come on after you drove your car off the dyno?
So next I try to schedule another dyno with another shop, well scheduling and distance made it a little hard so I haven't yet...

So yesterday, I install the boost gauge and run the wires for the AEM UEGO...which I will finish install later today, still have to have the o2 bung welded in, but after that just a connector and I can read my AFR's for myself.
OK, back to the boost gauge: I run the car hard just to see if the boost gauge is reading the 7psi that it's supposed too...UH! NOOO! it tops at around 5psi !!! I thought maybe the hose has slipped, or a boost leak, checked everything, no kinks and all lines are attatched!! WTF!!!

so I am going to the muffler shop now, and will put a call into HKS and post any and all findings.

anybody have any thoughts ??

thanks, in advance... -A.

 

maybe the members on this thread can help you. 267whp? something is definatley wrong! good luck!

https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....70#post2009070

 

The VDC and SLIP lights will come on after a dyno for exactly the reason you stated. The front wheels are not turning. The system sees this as a bad wheel sensor. It will reset after a few miles.

 

ok, so the VDC was probably turned off...hmmm

I just got back from the muffler shop and ran the car hard, never saw 16:1, but it never dipped below 12.1:1 or so...this is all I could catch, had to watch the road ...lol.
gonna have to take someone for a ride and have him watch boost and AFR gauges..
also gonna try to dyno again next WED. Also, noticed that boost doesn't come on till I slam the pedal, or high r's in 1st and 2nd.

 

WTF MATE... haha some one on here is selling a vdc kill switch for 20 bucks it kills it 100% and then can turn on easly also.

 

Gman2004: thanks for the link, I read thru that one before, but did again.

Alang: thanks for the info on the VDC.

D350Z10: thanks for the info on the VDC kill switch, will look into that later. Once I get all this other stuff ironed out.

-A.

 

gargoyleZ,

I had the same deal with lights staying on after dynoing the car. Doesn't really matter if VDC is on or off.

My solution is to brake hard enough so the ABS engages, after it does, everything goes back to normal. GL with HKS tunning.

 

https://my350z.com/forum/inventor-classifieds/144005-cmods-brake-torque-kit-illuminated-or-non-illuminated.html

but it doesnt cut if off 100% it just cuts a large majority, read and ull find out. I bought it and it works wonders (only problem is that the breaks turn off so you wont have break lights) but thats helped me get out of some tickets before you being able to break hard when getting gunned and them not seeing the lights makes them think i wasnt going as fast as they thought, or something i dunno im just rambling, but theres the product anyway

 

something is def. wrong only 267 to the wheels? thats alot of cash to spend to have only minor bolt on power see if you can talk to someone that knows more about this kit there are some people who are stated above that may be able to help you out. Good Luck i was thinking of getting this kit as well but it may seem that the stillen may be my safest bet to go with hope you found out your proplem.

 

I have the kptechnologies module and it doesn't kill the break lights.

http://www.kptechnologies.com

 

MOTOP: sorry, are "GL " your initials?? and your with HKS tuning...sorry if I missed something.

Also, all the lights went out by the time I got to the end of the street.

 

From what Ive read , the HKS kit produces around 300whp with 7psi .More than likely a boost leak , or a belt slipping . Take it to the shop that did the install .

 

Sorry for confusion. GL stands for Good Luck.

 

MOTOP: roger that...I am confused. lol!! thanks for the well wish! Still no response back from HKS, the tech I am supposed to talk to is at the Tokyo Auto Salon. hmmm. Also, am speaking with Steve over at AAM, he's been real good about it. So I will keep updating, as more info comes in.

 

booger: Actually, my cousin and I installed it... I have checked for boost leaks, and the like, but can not find any. The belt, is super tight...I don't think it's slipping... gonna trouble shoot over the next few, and see what I come up with...including a search for any vacuum or boost leak.
thansk for lookin' out. -A.

 

HAHA, i have a vpro, and have found out HOW TO ALWAYS HAVE THE VDC OFF, the reason why your vdc lights are comming on im sure the brake light might too sometimes, Your steering column needs to be re-aligned, its weird, take it too nissan, tell them to realign the steering, and reset the ABS light, they WILL TELL YOU IT IS OTHER THINGS, JUST TELL THEM TO RESET THE LIGHTS, AND THERES NO BAD SENORS, IF THEY GIVE YOU A HARD TIME I CAN ELABORATE

 

my belt is so tight, its almost touching the other side, and i'm making 7psi. when it was loose, i was only making 6. also, my afr has been in the 12s since i added the 1/4" spacer. my hks vendor called me back today. hks looked at my afr graph and said its too lean, recommended i get it tuned. you have a spacer too, right?
my dash lights went on after i installed the spacer, but they went off after a few miles of driving. haven't come back on since.
has hks told you why your whp is so low? that's unacceptable.

 

Hey Matt!
was waiting for you to chime in..lol.
Ok, So I am going to try to crank the belt down even more, but it seems pretty close now, I'll get a pic tomorrow and maybe you can tell if it is like yours.
I have not heard back from HKS yet, so I have not additional information on that front. It's possible that I am running the lower HP because of the lean condition and the non-7psi.
Yes, I have a spacer, it is the ME 5/16" ... AFR's seem to be in the 12's low 13's...still too lean to be on it all the time.
I ABSOLUTELY agree with you about the low HP, UNACCEPTABLE..
-A.

 

one thing i noticed when my pulley belt was loose was when i would start the car, you could hear the belt squeal for quite awhile while it was idling, even while idling at a stop light, and when i first pressed the accelerator from idle. ever since i tightened the belt enough to get 7psi on my gauge, i now get only a momentary belt squeal, and only upon initial startup in the morning.
worst case scenario, you should be making at least 300whp at 7psi. let's say you had 235whp stock. 300-235=65whp increase, /7psi=9.29hp/pound of boost. at 5psi, you're only making 267-235=32hp/5psi=6.4hp/pound. way low. there's your problem. you're not making enough hp/pound of boost.
i don't think its your lean condition causing the decrease in hp. i'm just as lean with the spacer, and i'm making 317whp.
ya, send me the pix. i'll compare to mine and get back to you. my pulley position is nearly at the bottom of the available range.

 

does anyone out there have their stock plenum bolts?? If so lmk asap,,thanks!