but still what are you gonna do with 700whp................

 

Gents,

Does anyone have any more data to support their Greddy 700+ or APS 790+ or SGP 800+ or SFR 1000+ WHP claims?

Please provide:

Dynos
Product Lists
Boost Level
A/F and Timing
Fuel Used

Doesn't seem as if any of this is reality without substantiation.

M

 

SGP has dynos for the 700+ car that they finished up, most of the other systems are basing there power off of the theoretical limit of the turbos.

 

It's a valid question. 700+whp is definately usable at the drag strip with slicks, but certainly not on the street. Either way, lots of my clients are looking to push into the 10's and even the 9's with their crazy built motors.

And even 700whp is usable on the street, as long as you are running 315 rear tires, and begin your WOT runs at about 90mph...SOOOO much fun!

 

Yea bro same turbos as in our car...

 

Put it down...there are plenty of RWD street cars out there that can put down 700+whp effectively...With a proper suspension setup and tire it's definitely doable on a Z.

 

I guess it depends where you live, where I live you get your @ss kick left and right by 500hp Hondas, Subis, Evos, Cobras, etc. if you only have 500 or so whp.
BTW I got my @ss kick all the way up to 140mph just the other day against a turbo RSX, I had my street trim of 548whp@13lbs.

Anyway back to subject, who knows of a fuel setup good for 700whp.
Sharif give us the secret recipe

 

Yup, I learned a while back, that I will never race the sub 2000lb B16 K20 FI Honda crowd. You will get your **** handed to you everytime. The power to weight ratios are so out of wack, that we'd need 800-1000whp to be competitive against the 400-500whp Honda community. Some of those CRX's and Civic hatches weigh 1500lbs....totally stripped down, and even the full interior versions are tipping the scales at a scant 1800lbs.

In regards to fuel system, we're fitting the protype AAM Stage II system on our car, but preliminary indications are, that it should support 800whp worth of fuel, but retain all the factory elements of the stock fuel pump assembly. There will also be an option to run a different or secondary pump, in order to boost its flow levels even further than 800whp. And it wont be a noisy distraction, like the large external Weldon or Aeromotive pumps. Hit me with a PM if you would like to test one out.

 

Sharif,

Even with ARP head bolts the heads are lifting?

 

I asked that in the suspension forum but haven't gotten the answer I was looking for.

What are the correct suspension mods needed?
...since my wall incident I want to upgrade my suspension first before adding more power and am trying to find the best possible solution here

 

With ARP head studs, a Cometic/Cosworth headgasket, and Darton sleeves, there appears to be no issues with head lift or headgasket failure.

 

The two most important things are to remove negative camber in the rear (it will kill your handling) and to get some traction bars (they will keep the suspension from moving forward and backward. You can also remove your front sway bar for better weight transfer. And lastly you don't want really stiff suspension as it's not condusive to good weight transfer. Obviously setting your car up like this will make it handle like a tank, but it's the price you pay if you want to go fast in a straight line.

 

Could you please list the perfect setup for both maximum handling and straight line?

 

currently I'm on 100% stock suspension, first thing is obviously the Camber kit.
Is getting a tein flex kit overkill? Do I need it or would it hurt.
The main goal of course is a compromise since I don't want a tank as a daily driver

Also who makes traction bars? That's something new to me

 

go fast duh! lol

 

Finally! I've been looking for what you just posted for a week now, thanks.

 

Any idea what psi and whp just the ARP studs and Cometic gasket are good too?

 

i still dont see the point of 700whp or more....hell id stop at 500whp.........but then again i like to turn my cars more than fly down the road in em.....so whatever

but no doubt, cant wait to you guys hit those high numbers and put the z on the high hp map

 

Too soon to tell....I wish I had the answer for you.

 

I like to drive my car in the twisties too. I think two maps is the best approach. Low boost at a very usable 500whp, and a high boost map for 700whp+ at the drag strip, or for freeway racing.