Sharif

What do you think is the key for holding down Heads?

 

I think you hit the nail right on the head Sharif! I already have all of the above, and the stock head gasket just didn't cut it. We were doing some load base testing on a dynapack dyno, and once the load on the motor increased - the head gasket became the weak link. I'm going to be trying two different types of aftermarket head gaskets in the next few weeks and will let everyone know the results.

 

I think Sharif mentioned Cometics or something like that...

 

Hey Philthy, in addition to an upgraded head gasket, make sure you tuner doesnt apply excessively high boost pressure at very low RPM...which is pretty easy to do with a load based dyno. You can max out a turbo at 2500rpm, when in reality, you might need 4000rpm to max out the turbos.

1G---three things will help keep the heads from lifting: Keeping cylinder pressure and heat to the absolute minimum (for the power you are trying to achieve), using the best block hardware and gaskets, and solid tuning.

 

No question Sharif, all good suggestions!

One other good suggestion is making sure your motor is warmed up to operating temperature before you hit the dyno or place any large loads on the motor...

 

I saw your longblock the other day. It's ready to go in brother.

 

I can't wait to drive my car again.....going for conservative power this time......475whp.

 

I am going for stock boost at 430-450, low boost at 490, high boost at 550. Should be out end of next week. Yours was first.

 

Damn Sharif I thought I was crazy with my repeated runs up to 150mph on the freeway. You crazy meng! I start to chit at 150mph.

 

hehe...it wasnt me, meng. I'd never do that...

 

In response to the statement regarding "what class is he going to run in and how can he compete with the Pro Classes"? I had the car built this way to compete in local tracks against "good ole boys" (cobras,vets,& vipers) and to get to the local Seven Elevens a little quicker! I'm trying to make it streetable now!

 

Machining in 1/2" studs should do the trick.

 

i have talked to a few highly experienced machinists whole told me that they think that using 1/2" headstuds on my engine would hold great for drag racing and extreme HP where I rebuild the engine... but they also thought I would destroy headgaskets on a street car that I wanted to keep together for a long time... something about how the hardware will not allow any expansion and it will tear at the headgasket.

 

I wouldn't think that would be a problem on a sleeved block with the added mating surface.

 

Sleeve nip height (above deck) is the answer . Sleeves machined flat w/block won't stay sealed.

 

seems like everyone is blowing this whole head lifting thing out of proportion. Anything can be done with enough time, money, and expertise.

 

Another thing we have done on alot of high horsepower cars is o-ring the head and the block to creat a double offset o-ring. Works great.




Tim

 

Hey gman why dont you just get the utec and do a daily driver map and then do a racing map. i think your going to miss all that power man.

 

I am kinda jading with the whole modding thing and I am not trying to be a poineer anymore. I just want to get my car back and have some fun. I fuked up the stock motor and then my built motor. This is my 3rd time around (like 350zDCalb and Gurgen). I have had the car for 22 months and it's be down for 11 of those months. Mark assured he could deliver my car with a reliable 550whp, but I just told him to keep it under 480whp.

I know the UTEC is getting great reviews and it looks very promising, but I have been told by a couple of reputable shops that switching from the EU to the UTEC is not worth the money. I am not knocking the UTEC at all. If I didn't already have the EU, I would definately go that route, but I am going to take the advice I have already been given and stick with what I got.

 

When you turn your boost to 8 lbs you will understand what 400 + to the wheels is all about in this car.