I have the stock rad still. I know the Koyo will fit if you trim the fans down. Another option is to get the Koyo and buy some Flex-A-Lite Slimline fans to get you the space you need. If you are shooting for 500 WHP on the 60-1 turbo you will be running 14-18 PSI of boost...

 

Good Luck and I wish you the best with your build Bro!

 

yea thats what i was figuring, 14-18 sounds bout right, the car should be a beast but its gonna be so different from how my car drives b/c im not longer having the high compression so im excited to see how the car responds now, def i dont think will feel as torquey as before

 

First I was glad that Cris opted to keep the car We are putting a package together that will fit what the kit can do and keep costs in line as well. Just because parts like the Eagle rods have not been around on this forum does it mean they are no good, Eagle rods have been used on high power engines for a long time. We are as excited as Cris is to do this and we will be starting next week. I will take pics of the process for Criss to have an post if he likes.

 

Even though eagle rods may be strong enough for $500 more I rather have Pauter and for $100 more have the CP or Arias. WTF is another $600 when you are already spending $5K? JMO.

Take this scanario. Lets say you weigh 200 lbs and you go bungee jumping. When you go to pay the bunjee operator he tells you that you have a choice of a bunjee rope that was rated for 300 lbs or one that was rated for 600 lbs, but it would cost a little more. What would you take?

Lastly once he gets use to 500whp what's to say he won't want more and upgrade the turbo to stage 2? If he has the Pauters already he will have room for growth.

 

 

Everyone has their opinion and I am not going to get into it but spending that extra money the first time didn't do you any good did it?? the bunjee rope still broke!! It is not about who spends the most but who spends it wisely Not everyone has the luxury to throw money around like others.

 

gus nailed it on the head for me, i think since im not a drag racer and maybe race on the street occasionally, in fact my car has never ever been to a track, excpet road course and racetracks, not str8 line, so i think this setup will be fine, im not looking for a race car im looking for 500 whp that i can spank up on a few people, gonna be getting a new car in another year or so so i plan to be liek one of those old guys with a 240z but ill have this crazy 350z haha, so i think my setup will be good for me, not a hp junky, im more of a track guy that loves to turn and occasionallykick some butt in a str8 line

 

The difference on the rods is over $600 alone. on 5 grand rebuild that is over a 10% increase on the TOTAL build alone on the rods. These rods hold 500-600 whp on 4 cylinder motors and like I stated, upwards of 700 whp on 300Z cars that I could find. The eagles are PLENTY Strong. By your logic, one might as well sleeve the block, cryogenically treat the crank, do serious headwork and install cams while it is being built.

The 600 savings nearly buys one a clutch, 1/2 an exhaust setup, larger injectors, more than pays for the tune, etc. if the difference was 100-200 bucks, then your logic is more reasonable. I am all for doing a build right, but 100 bucks here, 600 bucks there, and you start talking some serious money.

 

Japtrix

Cesar
Power by APS installed it by Japtrix

 

My pistons frying had nothing to do with the with how much money I spent. My car overboosted and my injectors could not compensate the extra needed fuel. I could have had king kong's ***** for pistons, but if the motor doesn't get enough fuel for the amount of air it's getting they wouldn't have done me any good. My problems was that I should have bought RC 650's instead of the 550's for the power I was running.

BTW the way, the pistons that fried where Wiseco 8:8:1 which were recommended to me at the time. I am now getting CP pistons.

 

$550 difference on SGP's site. I understand not everyone has money to throw around, but based on the fact that Chris just recently bought the TN kit, paid for the install, bought an exhaust, and is now paying for a build up with a whole bunch of extra goodies it doesn't sound like he doesn't have an extra $600-$700 spend. Again this is JMO.

Westpak,

Just got another invoice from SGP. Besides me running my injectors at almost 100% duty cylce and overboosting here are some of the other things SGP had to fix that may have contributed to my built motor failure.

1. Labor to repair faulty wiring, bad hoses, sort out turbo installation.
2. Replace VQ35 head studs due to streching of studs (overheating).
3. Replace aluminum boost pipe from Greddy kit, wrong outlet piping installed in the beginning. Piping was installed incorrectly and rubbed a hole in the piping.

^^^ Thanks to South Florida Performance.

 

I was basing my numbers off Forged internals site:
Eagles 570
Pauters 1190
difference 620

Either way you look at it, 550 or 620 it is still a big difference. I understand your point and if you got the money, go for the pauters if it gives you peace of mind.

IMO, I am very happy we have a choice between the two.

 

Is your motor already built with the eagle rods? I can't remember if I read that or not.

 

yes

 

I guess it doesn't pay to go for the more expensive bunjee chord if the drop is not far enough to use it

Sorry to hear of your issues but I don't think you would have come out any better by spending even more than you did, under your circumstances you would have damaged any engine.

 

Yeah, I guess I should have gone with someone's advice when I asked what shop to use for my TT install and they recommended Japtrix to me. West Palm seemed kind of far, so I went with SFP since it was 5 minutes from my house. BIG MISTAKE! I basically went through 2 motors cause of SFP.

 

gman i agree with you that is sounds far but their is no one that knows better bc theyve been doing it since the first turbo kit came out for the z and g, the drive sux but ill make it everytime to know that japtrix(roger and gus) are working on my car instead of some sh>>>> shop thats close by the THINKS they know wat theyre doing but just wants my money.

 

Water Temp gauge - factory gauge very inaccurate and sloooowww to move when temp changes- if it ever does.
I'm more concerned about oil temp than water temp at this time (using both gauges) with my APS TT installed by Japtrix.

 

i have to figure a place to put it b/c i hate the pillar pods, and i dont want to get rid of the stock little digital gauge