Took 16,000+ miles, but developed noise (i.e. rock being shook inside a can) either in the Jack Shaft, Blower or Tensioner Pulley. Isolated down to the Tensioner/Idler Pulley. It was installed wrong. Bearing inside pulley became worn, thus movement and causing damage to cog belt (i.e slippage and missing cogs). Have attached right and wrong pics showing the way screw, pulley, spacers, washer and nut should be installed. If installed correctly, washer/nut would be to the front of vehicle or blower side of the mount.

Installed wrong:



Installed right:

 

dunno bout you, but it makes more sense to me to have the pulley spinning on the non-threaded part anyways.

 

 

Any permanent damage??

 

:+2:

 

+2

 

No, just had to order a new pulley and cog belt from Vortech. I know of at least one other unit locally that has been installed wrong.

 

Thats good though. Repairable is better than not-repairable

 

True! Wasn't able to find a COG belt here in Albuquerque (i.e. PepBoys, NAPA, Checker, CarQwest, AutoZone), so had to order from Vortech. Gates Coorporate Office did hook me up with an Albuquerque source, but they didn't have one in stock, but they will order a couple for inventory.

 

Is this the cog right behind the blower? what does it sound like when you are at WOT 5500+rpm? LOUD screeeeech? any vibration in cockpit?

--mike

 

You have the COG pulley behind the blower and then another on the Jack Shaft. Between those you have a Tension/Idler Pulley for adjusting the tension on the COG Belt. Except for the noise at low rpm's, hard to notice. Knowing I had a problem, just wanted to get it to my garage to check out. NO "LOUD screeeeech" or vibration!

The pulley rotates on bearing within pulley. The threads of the bolt did not scar the inside of the bearing or the spacers. I check belt tension weekly. Why 67 of 75 cogs were missing on the belt is a mystery. Did a visual and found nothing that showed where belt might have rubbed or got caught. The cogs on the blower and jack shaft are fine. Blower cog spins freely. Ran NA while looking for COG belt. UPS delivers belt tomorrow AM. Will see what happens.

 

My Vortech Supercharger is making a good bit of racket as well so, i checked and my tension pulley seems to be backwards as well! The threaded part is towards the rear of the vehicle as shown in your "wrong" picture. I have looked at the installation manual provided by vortech online and there is only one picture that shows that part of the assembly - but you can't tell from the picture and they don't specifically address the direction this pulley should be installed. Mine does not sound like a "rock in a can" but definately has some extraneous noises and is throwing belt dust significantly. My belt seems to be wearing at the rear side (towards the back of the vehicle) on this pulley.
Where did you get the information as to which direction is correct? I don't want to change it if it is not correct, but definately find your post something i would like to follow up on!

 

Sent you a "PM" responding to your "PM". Forget the picture! If you look at the assembly order on page 7, sub paragraph 6.I. (i.e. screw, idler, pilot spacer, 1.1" spacer, SC mounting plate, washer and nut) you can't install the "aluminum idler" correctly with the treads point toward the rear of your vehicle!

Plus, the diameter of the bolt/screw is larger at the head.

 

Gotta go check that.

Mine had the rock in can sound for the first 1000 miles or so. I found that that idler assembly was loose, and the sound went away when I tightened it. I can't remember how it was assembled, though.

 

Mine has made the "rocks in can" noise since day 1 below 600 rpms. My idler pulley is also installed the "wrong way" but in the installation manual on page 7, fig. 6-b you can clearly see that the threaded part is towards the rear of the vehicle. Did you confirm that this is installed incorrectly? Perhaps its a error in the installation manual. I think it makes more sense to have the pulley on the non-threaded part as well.

I just don't want to change it, if its installed correctly b/c mine is running perfect besides the low rpm grumble...thanx

 

Say "pulley" again.



sorry, i realize my post didn't contribute anything to your thread.

 

The washer and nut shouls be on the bumper side of the bracket . If you dont change it , you will end up with yours going bad also . Pretty dang simple to change .

 

Mine has never idled at 600 rpms. I am at a constant 750 rpms. I can't make out from the pic which side the threads are on. I am going by the installation description on page 7, sub para 6.I Plus the construction of the bolt at the head. How sloppy the Idler/Tension Pulley fits when it is on the thread end. Additionally, having threads on the smooth inner surfaces of the bearing of the pulley just doesn't make sense. This was pointed out to me when I initially initiated this thread with pics and comments.

 

why so much opposition to this. the pull is meant to be spun on a smooth surface not on a threaded bolt. the threads will eventually eat away at the bearing and scar its smooth surface.
dont think this can happen. ask honda kids what happens when they replace there lower control arm bolts with regular bolts lying around the garage!

 

Thank you bacalhau16 and booger! I just thought that there were installers out there doing it wrong, worth checking and make the simple five minute change before problems similar to mine occur.