overZealous1

iTrader: (27)

1/2" head studs found, will commence work in 2 weeks.

arp will be packaging these for me. i am expecting we can do this for people for roughly $800 including studs and labor. once mine is done, i will have a solid figure.

Eagle1

iTrader: (2)

Whew, that sure is a long pull at WOT if the ambition is to reach maximum (I hesitate to use the term "terminal") velocity. Glad I do not frequent any highways in Michigan to inadvertantly bear witness to it.

There are a few tracks out here where we pull at WOT for more than ten seconds. The front straight at Cal Speedway running the Roval is one, Pahrump, Fernley, and Willow Springs also have some very high speed stretches, as does Thunderhill, where you stay on full throttle for more than ten seconds. (If you are in a Miata it is about 30 seconds! The difference is they don't lift in the turn and catch up to everybody.) Sears Point and Buttonwillow really don't, though you can get going plenty fast there, just not WOT for more than ten seconds. The car is "pulling" very hard under max load however, whether it be second gear or fifth, for a very sustained period each lap, and for lap after lap, as you squeeze on power at apex of each turn...to a term of perhaps a half hour without respite....so I think the heat demand, though a bit different, is still extreme. Some of the heat management techniques are still worth thinking about. Also a membership in any club that visits Bonneville a couple of times a year.

Gman2004

iTrader: (8)

Does Forgedinternals sell thrusters for a G35 yet? I want to fly! Don't ya know?

Eagle1

iTrader: (2)

I suppose that when you come off boost for re entry into the atmosphere, you could get a cryo cooling coil for in front of the intercooler and just give it a quick squirt of CO-2. A lot cheaper than all of the heat management techniques I was mentioning, and perhaps sufficient to bring the temps down quickly enough to avoid heat soak, overheating etc. to the point where the system you now have could then manage it.

But, how you get the ceramic tiles from NASA Space Shuttle to handle the frictional heat gain on the leading edges, I have no idea.

meatbag

iTrader: (9)

I know alot of people think that 1/2" studs are the answer but they are not without there downfalls, and since my car is going to be driven daily im going to take a more extreme direction witht the cooling system and use a different type of 7/16" stud. Hopefully everything will pan out.

After looking at the evans coolant, it seems like this stuff could help out alot.

Yancy

iTrader: (5)

Well, I hope that all the stuff I bought for the Z works. I think its too late now to add the 1/2 studs because the engine is already assembled and shipped out. Why would the 1/2 be that much better than a 7/16 stud? There's not that much of a difference is there? Running 500 rwhp shouldn't be that difficult right? Right now I've been running 8.5 psi with 450 rwhp or so and never have any issues with cooling except oil temp after several repeated hard runs.

meatbag

iTrader: (9)

You should be fine at that power level for the most part depending on your driving.

The biggest thing with running the 1/2" studs is being able to torque them down harder then the 7/16" studs.

G35cTT

iTrader: (2)

I don't drive as extreme as Gman but I have the same issue I have a GReddy breather but oem radiator. I thought it was from the location of my oil cooler being right by the radiator.

Philthy

iTrader: (3)

[QUOTE=meatbag]I know alot of people think that 1/2" studs are the answer but they are not without there downfalls, \QUOTE]

besides cost, what would those downfalls be?

overZealous1

iTrader: (27)

[QUOTE=Philthy] this being my second motor build after roughly 7k miles, i'm not gunna leave it to chance. every other high hp build i have done has lasted longer than i have had the chance to pull back apart. not this one.

there have been alot of threads started lately about the cooling system, that is not the problem. i have no doubt in my mind that my headgaskets are toast. i have been testing my car a couple hours a night to see a pattern. all of that leads to head gasket failure, or at the least, the failure for the cylinder to seal adequately. no fan or radiator will cure this. hence the reason to find a cure for this.

my motor, nor anyone elses, will hit 700rwhp reliably until a solution is found.

Yancy

iTrader: (5)

[QUOTE=overZealous1]I'm planning a map for around 500 rwhp for daily driving and another map around 600 rwhp for racing. All I can do is hope it works out. Did you have a cometic head gasket or oem? If the 1/2 head bolts turn out to solve everyones problem, how difficult would it be to do this to a built engine that's going to be a Z pretty soon? I imagine the engine would have to be pulled or could it be tapped by just pulling the heads but leaving the short block in the car?

Sharif@Forged

iTrader: (92)

[QUOTE=Yancy]Engine has to be removed and broken down again. Ideal, you want to strip the short block completely down, drill/tap for the larger studs (this is an extremely technical and precision operation...not something you can do with a hand drill). Then reinstall your trq plate, and fine bore/hone the cylinders again. The block is probably going to distort a little bit more at 90ft/lbs vs. the 65ft/lbs most people's blocks were assembled under.

1/2 studs will certainly work, but at a higher cost. Our solution will be nearly half the price and will still yield a significant increase in clamping force, and require no additional labor/drilling/tapping of the block.

Gman2004

iTrader: (8)

what the dilly yo! spill the beans.

Yancy

iTrader: (5)

[QUOTE=Sharif@Forged]Now that's what I'm talking about Can you elaborate a little more about when this solution will be ready? What it is? Etc. The last thing I want to do is have to pull the block and go through all of that BS because my engine should be going in within a week. A fix that doesn't require this would be great. Even the thought of paying to pull the engine later to do the 1/2 studs would make me

Sharif@Forged

iTrader: (92)

I dont want to formally announce it, until I have product to sell. Should be about 3-4 weeks...they are still in production. You can always go back, and swap studs later. Yes, its a PITA, but doable.

350zDCalb

iTrader: (21)

shhhhhhhhhh, hahahaha

aalzuhair

iTrader: (2)

Come on man you are going to make us wait for 3-4 weeks!!! can't do that .... its' not fair dude ..... Z's are dieing man

meatbag

iTrader: (9)

nvm

Yancy

iTrader: (5)

I was under the impression by your earlier post that people weren't going to have to pull the engine to use what you're working on? Is this post now saying that one will have to end up pulling the engine to swap studs? Maybe I'm confused?

In the end, I'm hoping that the sleeves, studs, cometic HG and other stuff I got keeps the heads sealed. However, since my engine is going to be going in the car in a week or so, it would be nice for some hints or something a brother could use to take additional steps to assist in the issue of head left. Now, if the product can be installed or put in a month or so without me paying someone to pull the engine, etc. then that's all good I guess. If it's going to require me to pull the engine etc then that just stinks.

Sharif@Forged

iTrader: (92)

Since I have nothing to sell at this point, it makes no difference. Engines will live or die...but not a result of anything I am doing.

Yancy, if you just want to swap studs...same size...then you dont have to remove the engine. I was saying that have to remove the engine, in order to drill/tap for larger studs...which is not the route I am going.

In terms of trq, there is still a chance, at some point, that applying more trq will disort the block, and require you to rebore/hone your cylinder walls. It depends on how far you trq them.