Headlift -- sleeved and non-sleeved engines
02-15-2008, 06:37 PM
#161
Originally Posted by George@GTM
How did you bleed the cooling system? +1 on what Sharif said, your probaly isn't properly purged of all the air. When you turn on the heater does it get hot right away, or does it take a while and not get as hot as it should (like when it was stock)
LMK,
-George
GT Motorsports
LMK,
-George
GT Motorsports
It does not get hot right away. But would it still do this after a week of driving? Been driving like this a little longer then a week. Or doesn't matter how many miles I drove?
02-15-2008, 06:39 PM
#162
Originally Posted by G35cTT
It does not get hot right away. But would it still do this after a week of driving? Been driving like this a little longer then a week. Or doesn't matter how many miles I drove?
Do you have a spill funnel or some other way of doing a thorough purging?
Like George said, the easiest way to check, is you should have VERY hot air coming from your vents once the car is up to operating temp.
02-15-2008, 06:41 PM
#163
Originally Posted by Sharif@Forged
The air can be very stubborn....it's still in there.
Do you have a spill funnel or some other way of doing a thorough purging?
Like George said, the easiest way to check, is you should have VERY hot air coming from your vents once the car is up to operating temp.
Do you have a spill funnel or some other way of doing a thorough purging?
Like George said, the easiest way to check, is you should have VERY hot air coming from your vents once the car is up to operating temp.
02-16-2008, 11:12 AM
#164
Originally Posted by G35cTT
I do have a funnel. What is the best way to get the air out?
02-16-2008, 11:38 AM
#165
Originally Posted by Sharif@Forged
this is the best/safest/cleanest thing to use: http://www.monstermarketplace.com/Au...666a15625.html
I was about to get one of them, here's a cheaper price and thanks for the tips.
http://www.hechinger.com/web/catalog...tive%20Product
Last edited by G35cTT; 02-16-2008 at 11:46 AM.
02-16-2008, 11:58 AM
#167
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Originally Posted by G35cTT
BTW w/ this funnel am I supposed to purge the air w/ the engine running?
02-16-2008, 12:07 PM
#168
Originally Posted by App6MT
Yes. You want to get the engine warm so that the coolant will cycle. The goal is that the water going through the block will push the air pockets out.
OK, do I need to have the heater hose air relief plug open as well? Thanks for the info guys!
02-16-2008, 12:30 PM
#169
Originally Posted by G35cTT
OK, do I need to have the heater hose air relief plug open as well? Thanks for the info guys!
Who did your install? You could have them do the purge if you aren't comfortable doing it yourself.
02-16-2008, 12:51 PM
#170
Originally Posted by Sharif@Forged
Nope...no need to open it. Just run the engine....rev it up....get it VERY hot.
Who did your install? You could have them do the purge if you aren't comfortable doing it yourself.
Who did your install? You could have them do the purge if you aren't comfortable doing it yourself.
SFR did the install but I sort of want to do this myself so I can do it in the future w/o having to bring it in the shop
02-16-2008, 07:18 PM
#173
Originally Posted by Sharif@Forged
Only need to do it for about 30 mins or so.....not 5 days.
Hopefully this does the job, I'll try it when I get the new funnel. I know when I got it installed they didn't take 30 min to purge the system. Thanks for the info!
02-20-2008, 05:59 AM
#174
I recently installed a koyo. The way I purged the system after install was to:
1) Fill the new rad up until it was topped off.
2) Then I opened the breather hose near the firewall on the passenger side, and litterally poured coolent into it (about 1/2 gallon) until it was topped off.
3) Closed the rad & breather up
4) Started the car and let it go through a cooling cycle. verified hot air from the heater.
5) Drove it around. Everything was perfect. No fuss no muss.
1) Fill the new rad up until it was topped off.
2) Then I opened the breather hose near the firewall on the passenger side, and litterally poured coolent into it (about 1/2 gallon) until it was topped off.
3) Closed the rad & breather up
4) Started the car and let it go through a cooling cycle. verified hot air from the heater.
5) Drove it around. Everything was perfect. No fuss no muss.
02-20-2008, 09:55 AM
#178
I just fill the car up and let the coolant get hot. Then I turn it off and open the relief valve on the heater hose slowly until I hear air coming out. I do not remove it though. I let it sit there and relieve air until coolant starts to trickle out of the crack. Then I shut the relief valve.
I just do that as many times as needed for no air to come out on the intial opening of the valve, letting the engine cool down and topping off the coolant between each cycle. Never had issues with that method.
I just do that as many times as needed for no air to come out on the intial opening of the valve, letting the engine cool down and topping off the coolant between each cycle. Never had issues with that method.
02-21-2008, 09:50 AM
#179
Originally Posted by eagletanggreen
IF you have a turbo Z and you drive it hard.... You need to purge your motor often
Or
Bad things will happen!.
Or
Bad things will happen!.
02-27-2008, 06:36 PM
#180
I got my funnel and did as Sharif suggested but ran it for 35min and my car took in almost 2 bottles of coolant and half a bottle of distilled water. Haven't yet got to test out if it did work but that's alot of air in there if you ask me. I'll let you guys know how it goes, hope that takes care of over heating issue. Thanks for the information