Quirky bump in Dyno Sheet...
NOPI judges are retarded, I'll just get that out of the way right now...
Anyways, they had a mobile dyno there, decided to let them pull the car a couple times. Peak result ended up being 421hp/505tq.
Now oddly, when the car was tuned about 3 weeks ago, the tuner stated that the car was apparently pulling some timing around 5k rpm for reasons unknown. After doing whatever tuners do, he managed to smooth out the curves, and we left it at that. When I got the Dyno sheets back from yesterday's NOPI event, there's an odd dip reflected in both the HP and TQ curves (on a second printout where the numbers are listed in 100-rpm increments, the loss occurs between 5,000 and 5,100 rpms).
I haven't noticed any driveability concerns - still running 91 pump gas. Boost is continuous (peaks at 12, tapers to 7.5 at redline, no observable hiccups). Any ideas? Should I be concerned?
Pulled in 4th, 4th and 5th gear(s)


Anyways, they had a mobile dyno there, decided to let them pull the car a couple times. Peak result ended up being 421hp/505tq.
Now oddly, when the car was tuned about 3 weeks ago, the tuner stated that the car was apparently pulling some timing around 5k rpm for reasons unknown. After doing whatever tuners do, he managed to smooth out the curves, and we left it at that. When I got the Dyno sheets back from yesterday's NOPI event, there's an odd dip reflected in both the HP and TQ curves (on a second printout where the numbers are listed in 100-rpm increments, the loss occurs between 5,000 and 5,100 rpms).
I haven't noticed any driveability concerns - still running 91 pump gas. Boost is continuous (peaks at 12, tapers to 7.5 at redline, no observable hiccups). Any ideas? Should I be concerned?
Pulled in 4th, 4th and 5th gear(s)


Last edited by JoeDirtPharmD; Mar 20, 2006 at 05:01 PM.
UniChip (came with APS ST setup)
EDIT: Interesting to see the differences in Dynos.
Dyno1: Dyno Dynamics (load based): 401hp/435tq
Dyno2: DynoJet #1: 436hp/446tq
Dyno3: DynoJet #2: 421hp/505tq
Given no remarkable change in gas quality, temperature, humidity, elevation, etc., its interesting to see the differences between different dynos. Or, maybe the car is out of whack?
EDIT: Interesting to see the differences in Dynos.
Dyno1: Dyno Dynamics (load based): 401hp/435tq
Dyno2: DynoJet #1: 436hp/446tq
Dyno3: DynoJet #2: 421hp/505tq
Last edited by JoeDirtPharmD; Mar 20, 2006 at 05:19 PM.
Originally Posted by taurran
I've been told that dip is due to the Variable Valve Timing Control system on these cars.
Sadly - tapering issue still exists for reasons unknown... not too worried about that.
The AFR reads at 11.6 at 5100 rpms.
So... likely some knock? Highest octane avail around here is 91
There's a spot about 40mi. away that sells 100. Gonna hafta' start making a home brew of Xylene and MMO... lol
The AFR reads at 11.6 at 5100 rpms.
So... likely some knock? Highest octane avail around here is 91
There's a spot about 40mi. away that sells 100. Gonna hafta' start making a home brew of Xylene and MMO... lol
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Originally Posted by JoeDirtPharmD
Sadly - tapering issue still exists for reasons unknown... not too worried about that.
The AFR reads at 11.6 at 5100 rpms.
So... likely some knock? Highest octane avail around here is 91
There's a spot about 40mi. away that sells 100. Gonna hafta' start making a home brew of Xylene and MMO... lol
The AFR reads at 11.6 at 5100 rpms.
So... likely some knock? Highest octane avail around here is 91
There's a spot about 40mi. away that sells 100. Gonna hafta' start making a home brew of Xylene and MMO... lol
That's a pretty wave line...especially for a dyno jet. I agree, somethings is up with the timing. 91 octane is a bear to tune with, and my guess is that you have a knock feedback related issue. Stock ECU detects knock (you might not even hear it), and it starts vascilating the timing downward. The UNICHIP is pretty poor at controlling timing, since it doesnt read or act on the stock knock sensor, nor does it allow you to actually "Set" the timing.
I'd put a UTEC on this car, and your control over the engine will improve 10 fold.
To determine if its knock, the easiest thing to do, is to fill up with 100octane+ fuel, and hit the rollers again.
I'd put a UTEC on this car, and your control over the engine will improve 10 fold.
To determine if its knock, the easiest thing to do, is to fill up with 100octane+ fuel, and hit the rollers again.
Originally Posted by Sharif@Forged
That's a pretty wave line...especially for a dyno jet. I agree, somethings is up with the timing. 91 octane is a bear to tune with, and my guess is that you have a knock feedback related issue. Stock ECU detects knock (you might not even hear it), and it starts vascilating the timing downward. The UNICHIP is pretty poor at controlling timing, since it doesnt read or act on the stock knock sensor, nor does it allow you to actually "Set" the timing.
I'd put a UTEC on this car, and your control over the engine will improve 10 fold.
To determine if its knock, the easiest thing to do, is to fill up with 100octane+ fuel, and hit the rollers again.
I'd put a UTEC on this car, and your control over the engine will improve 10 fold.
To determine if its knock, the easiest thing to do, is to fill up with 100octane+ fuel, and hit the rollers again.
I'm going to hold off on mgm't upgrades until I determine the ticking concern. If it comes to be that I'm on board with a new engine, then I'll def. consider an alternative management. In the meantime, I'll load up on 100+ and run the car again.
Last edited by JoeDirtPharmD; Mar 20, 2006 at 07:26 PM.
Originally Posted by JoeDirtPharmD
In the meantime, I'll load up on 100+ and run the car again.
Add some ethanol :-D Ethanol (pure) is 118 octane i think. or 108... anyway, like said earlier, i'd find out why my engine is ticking before i find out why its not making power..maybe its hanging on a string? or a rod..
Originally Posted by paranormal
does intense have a dyno or tune? there in phoenix
They did, but they recently moved, and are now closed to the public. AZDynoChip has a DynoJet - going there Friday morning to see if its an octane-related issue.
Motor is stock, plugs are NGK one-step-colder plugs and gapped at whatever the instructions were per APS install (0.035? I think...?)
Now that the ticking is gone and it purrs, going to load up on some 100 and run it on a DynoJet again, hoping to see if I have a different outcome. If it resolves the quirk, then I know I simply need to find a local source for octane > 91, or turn down the boost a bit...
hey keith at AZDynoChip is a cool guy, but when I went there 3x, he had me actually drive on the dyno - not sure why, but that's his way. It seemed to run about 10whp lower than at intense motorsports dynojet.




