Turbos and driving characteristics
Originally Posted by tropicalypso
Would it be fair to say that if you wanna go with a turbo/twin turbo setup, that one should go ahead and budget for a built engine? There are pages and pages in this forum describing people throwing a rod or blowing a hole in the bottom end on their stock motors.
The arguments I have heard thus far (for blowing a motor) are that either a person was running too much boost, or that they were not tuned right.
My apologies if I am hijacking a thread...
The arguments I have heard thus far (for blowing a motor) are that either a person was running too much boost, or that they were not tuned right.
My apologies if I am hijacking a thread...
hehe yeah right now my backup plan is to let the car sit in the garage for half a year, take it off my insurance while I save up some money for a built engine. My wife and I have other cars I can drive besides my Z anyway. =
Or I can max out a credit card at 11% interest that I'm not too crazy about doing...
Or I can max out a credit card at 11% interest that I'm not too crazy about doing...
Originally Posted by taurran
If you're running any FI application on the stock vq35, you should always have a backup plan in case it blows. I know that if mine blew today I'd be able to buy a built block tomorrow, but I don't necessarily WANT to do it at the moment.
Originally Posted by sentry65
hehe yeah right now my backup plan is to let the car sit in the garage for half a year, take it off my insurance while I save up some money for a built engine. My wife and I have other cars I can drive besides my Z anyway. =
Or I can max out a credit card at 11% interest that I'm not too crazy about doing...
Or I can max out a credit card at 11% interest that I'm not too crazy about doing...
I think the current philosophy at this point is that a properly installed, well-tuned F/I kit is safe up to the low/mid 400's on stock engine components. That doesn't mean bulletproof, it means that you stand a better chance of not breaking something than if you're running above about 430-440. The initial power goals you stated are ok for a stock block. Your ultimate goals are not. Does that mean that 400 WHP couldn't snap a rod? Nope, absolutely not, but it means that you could plan to do things in steps if budget so requires....F/I with moderate boost first, save up, build motor (and supporting systems) and then go for broke (no pun intended). But as taurran stated, it's best to 'have a backup plan' in case the improbable happens. If that means leaving the car in the garage for six months with a hole in the block while you save for a motor build and you're ok with it, that's as good a plan as any.
Originally Posted by taurran
There's absolutely no reason why you shoudln't ENJOY an FI car with a stock motor. I beat mine to hell everytime I drive it without worry of blowing it.
the other thing is to think of having to get a built engine as an upgrade. Once you do it, you can up the boost. Hell you even have options as far as compression ratio and other things go and what octane gas you run etc.
the only downside is you lose your ability to trade in your stock engine and get back $2000-3000 core swap money for it
So really, if you'd like to build the engine someday and have more of a piece of mind with it, as long as nothing else is hurt in the engine bay, you should only be out $2000-3000 (of money you were planning on spending) depending on if the short block or the entire long block is toast
the only downside is you lose your ability to trade in your stock engine and get back $2000-3000 core swap money for it
So really, if you'd like to build the engine someday and have more of a piece of mind with it, as long as nothing else is hurt in the engine bay, you should only be out $2000-3000 (of money you were planning on spending) depending on if the short block or the entire long block is toast
Last edited by sentry65; Mar 22, 2006 at 01:11 PM.
Yea, it does seem that the 400 hp mark will be ok on a stock block, but like you said, not bulletproof. Now, would this be attainable if I was putting track abuse on the car like drifting. I understand some of yall beat the **** out of it, but is that just street driving or actually tracking?
Also, I didnt really want this thread to turn into a reliability thread. I really wanted to discuss the differnces in the kits such as fuel systems, spool up time, response, trackability, etc.. Im still wondering what makes one kits design better than the other? (such as intercooler routing, lengths of pipes, fuel hose routing, turbo placement, other line placements) Right, now it seems the best value for my purposes would be the Turbonetics kits, Greddy, JWT, or possibly a APS tuner kit. How much are they APS tuner kits? Also, does the single and twins from APS both come in tuner kit versions? Does anyone have pricing on these?
Another worry of mine, is if something goes wrong at the track, what would be easier to diagnose and fix? It seems like the supercharger and the turbonetics kits would be best for this b/c of the placement and less parts involved, correct?
Also, I didnt really want this thread to turn into a reliability thread. I really wanted to discuss the differnces in the kits such as fuel systems, spool up time, response, trackability, etc.. Im still wondering what makes one kits design better than the other? (such as intercooler routing, lengths of pipes, fuel hose routing, turbo placement, other line placements) Right, now it seems the best value for my purposes would be the Turbonetics kits, Greddy, JWT, or possibly a APS tuner kit. How much are they APS tuner kits? Also, does the single and twins from APS both come in tuner kit versions? Does anyone have pricing on these?
Another worry of mine, is if something goes wrong at the track, what would be easier to diagnose and fix? It seems like the supercharger and the turbonetics kits would be best for this b/c of the placement and less parts involved, correct?
Originally Posted by dank311
Yea, it does seem that the 400 hp mark will be ok on a stock block, but like you said, not bulletproof. Now, would this be attainable if I was putting track abuse on the car like drifting. I understand some of yall beat the **** out of it, but is that just street driving or actually tracking?
Also, I didnt really want this thread to turn into a reliability thread. I really wanted to discuss the differnces in the kits such as fuel systems, spool up time, response, trackability, etc.. Im still wondering what makes one kits design better than the other? (such as intercooler routing, lengths of pipes, fuel hose routing, turbo placement, other line placements) Right, now it seems the best value for my purposes would be the Turbonetics kits, Greddy, JWT, or possibly a APS tuner kit. How much are they APS tuner kits? Also, does the single and twins from APS both come in tuner kit versions? Does anyone have pricing on these?
Another worry of mine, is if something goes wrong at the track, what would be easier to diagnose and fix? It seems like the supercharger and the turbonetics kits would be best for this b/c of the placement and less parts involved, correct?
Also, I didnt really want this thread to turn into a reliability thread. I really wanted to discuss the differnces in the kits such as fuel systems, spool up time, response, trackability, etc.. Im still wondering what makes one kits design better than the other? (such as intercooler routing, lengths of pipes, fuel hose routing, turbo placement, other line placements) Right, now it seems the best value for my purposes would be the Turbonetics kits, Greddy, JWT, or possibly a APS tuner kit. How much are they APS tuner kits? Also, does the single and twins from APS both come in tuner kit versions? Does anyone have pricing on these?
Another worry of mine, is if something goes wrong at the track, what would be easier to diagnose and fix? It seems like the supercharger and the turbonetics kits would be best for this b/c of the placement and less parts involved, correct?

As a VERY general answer....If you're going to beat the **** out of it, you should plan for a built motor. You'll likely do it sooner or later whether you want to or not.
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