my vortech tuner kit install process thread
02-14-2007, 10:23 AM
#261
yeah I'll document it all as soon as everything's done
I just bought the stock idler/water pulley today
part #210514p110
I didn't want to grind my only one and be screwed if it didn't work out
I'll take it to a machine shop tomorrow to grind off the ribs. Then everything should be ready to go after that. I have a new belt and it's better than the one I've been using. The ribs are thicker with a square profile instead of a triangle profile. I really don't want to just tighten the crap out of the belt because then it'll soak up more hp to turn and wear out the bearings faster so I'm really interested in making the TIMROD belt setup work
some comments about the other stuff going on is the JIC camber arms are HUGE compared to the stock or SPC arms (which I was using) They're like 2x as thick. I have comparison pictures at home
The JIC steering tie rods I was told by my installer are much beefier than the stock ones too, but I've never actually seen the stock ones yet.
I was told the cooling mist WI kit went on with much swearing. Some custom things had to be fabricated and some missing misc parts had to be conjured up, but the install job is beyond awesome. I was really impressed with how perfect it was put on seeing it with the bumper removed. It uses stainless steel lines with brake line connectors which I thought seemed like a great idea living in hot AZ where plastic starts getting brittle and crack after awhile. But turns out if any single part goes bad on the kit, most of the kit will have to be uninstalled then reinstalled since the connectors are extreme heavy duty that can't simply be disconnected and reconnected
so that part kinda sucks and I had no idea that'd be the case. I bought this kit back in june or something and they wouldn't let me return it without a 20% restocking fee - and was missing some parts. They shipped me the parts I knew were missing, but I guess it was missing a few minor things still. If I were to do it over again, I'd probably just get a snow performance kit
Last time I was in the shop, I had my front 350EVO swaybar changed from the middle setting to the softest setting and that seemed to significantly help the handling since my front springrates are pretty stiff (10kg/lb, 8 rear) and the stiff bar was bouncing the front suspension all over the place over any tiny bump and I'd lose front traction. The bar is like 14-15 lbs and my stock 2003 one is 10 lbs and just as stiff as the lowest setting 350EVO bar from what I understand. The powergrid front sway bar end links won't fit the 350EVO bar, so I'm having the stock bar put back on and also going to try taking the rear bar to the softest setting as well. The car has been really easy to oversteer at slow speeds. Might partly be the nismo diff locking up though
I just bought the stock idler/water pulley today
part #210514p110
I didn't want to grind my only one and be screwed if it didn't work out
I'll take it to a machine shop tomorrow to grind off the ribs. Then everything should be ready to go after that. I have a new belt and it's better than the one I've been using. The ribs are thicker with a square profile instead of a triangle profile. I really don't want to just tighten the crap out of the belt because then it'll soak up more hp to turn and wear out the bearings faster so I'm really interested in making the TIMROD belt setup work
some comments about the other stuff going on is the JIC camber arms are HUGE compared to the stock or SPC arms (which I was using) They're like 2x as thick. I have comparison pictures at home
The JIC steering tie rods I was told by my installer are much beefier than the stock ones too, but I've never actually seen the stock ones yet.
I was told the cooling mist WI kit went on with much swearing. Some custom things had to be fabricated and some missing misc parts had to be conjured up, but the install job is beyond awesome. I was really impressed with how perfect it was put on seeing it with the bumper removed. It uses stainless steel lines with brake line connectors which I thought seemed like a great idea living in hot AZ where plastic starts getting brittle and crack after awhile. But turns out if any single part goes bad on the kit, most of the kit will have to be uninstalled then reinstalled since the connectors are extreme heavy duty that can't simply be disconnected and reconnected
so that part kinda sucks and I had no idea that'd be the case. I bought this kit back in june or something and they wouldn't let me return it without a 20% restocking fee - and was missing some parts. They shipped me the parts I knew were missing, but I guess it was missing a few minor things still. If I were to do it over again, I'd probably just get a snow performance kitLast time I was in the shop, I had my front 350EVO swaybar changed from the middle setting to the softest setting and that seemed to significantly help the handling since my front springrates are pretty stiff (10kg/lb, 8 rear) and the stiff bar was bouncing the front suspension all over the place over any tiny bump and I'd lose front traction. The bar is like 14-15 lbs and my stock 2003 one is 10 lbs and just as stiff as the lowest setting 350EVO bar from what I understand. The powergrid front sway bar end links won't fit the 350EVO bar, so I'm having the stock bar put back on and also going to try taking the rear bar to the softest setting as well. The car has been really easy to oversteer at slow speeds. Might partly be the nismo diff locking up though
Last edited by sentry65; 02-14-2007 at 10:45 AM.
02-22-2007, 11:45 PM
#262
have a video of the car, as I posted in that thread I started up:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NtmGmJLppoA
Jon from Dynocomp emailed me saying he got the new TIMROD belt setup finished and it's working great so far and sent me this video of it. For those who have been curious how a "properly" set up vortech sounds at idle - there you go, there's no rattling, wobbling, squeeling, or vibration sounds, just the jet engine sounding whine from the blower. Bear in mind the camera is RIGHT next to the blower so of course it's gonna sound pretty loud in comparison to everything else
BTW you can see my fuel pressure dropping due to what everyone suspects is something wrong with my fuel pump assembly. I don't remember what it drops to at redline, something like 35-40psi. I'm still planning on installing the CJM stage 2 fuel line and twin pump assembly ASAP when it's released.
he has my differencial taken off installing the solid diff mounts and JIC camber and traction rods. I did get to see the stock steering tie rods compared to the JIC ones this morning and the JIC ones really are much thicker - like 50-75% thicker.
anyway, for anyone considering the TIMROD pulley setup and is having a hard time finding a good machine shop locally (took me a bit to find someone knowledgable about cars yet skilled at machine work), you can try giving the guy here a call:
Jakolat Machine Co
(602) 273-0335
31 S 42nd Pl Phoenix, AZ
you can maybe arrange something where you mail the pulley to him and he can mail it back to you. He charged me about $85
the part number of that pulley is:
210514p110
it's about $53 retail and a little hard to come by. It's made of steel. I was told it's a pretty tough grade quality steel. Sorry I don't have a before/after picture. You need the ribs machined off and the lips smoothed and widened slightly.
The other thing is in the 2nd pic here where it says to remove the vortech plastic idler pulley, we ended up leaving that in place
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NtmGmJLppoA
Jon from Dynocomp emailed me saying he got the new TIMROD belt setup finished and it's working great so far and sent me this video of it. For those who have been curious how a "properly" set up vortech sounds at idle - there you go, there's no rattling, wobbling, squeeling, or vibration sounds, just the jet engine sounding whine from the blower. Bear in mind the camera is RIGHT next to the blower so of course it's gonna sound pretty loud in comparison to everything else
BTW you can see my fuel pressure dropping due to what everyone suspects is something wrong with my fuel pump assembly. I don't remember what it drops to at redline, something like 35-40psi. I'm still planning on installing the CJM stage 2 fuel line and twin pump assembly ASAP when it's released.
he has my differencial taken off installing the solid diff mounts and JIC camber and traction rods. I did get to see the stock steering tie rods compared to the JIC ones this morning and the JIC ones really are much thicker - like 50-75% thicker.
anyway, for anyone considering the TIMROD pulley setup and is having a hard time finding a good machine shop locally (took me a bit to find someone knowledgable about cars yet skilled at machine work), you can try giving the guy here a call:
Jakolat Machine Co
(602) 273-0335
31 S 42nd Pl Phoenix, AZ
you can maybe arrange something where you mail the pulley to him and he can mail it back to you. He charged me about $85
the part number of that pulley is:
210514p110
it's about $53 retail and a little hard to come by. It's made of steel. I was told it's a pretty tough grade quality steel. Sorry I don't have a before/after picture. You need the ribs machined off and the lips smoothed and widened slightly.
The other thing is in the 2nd pic here where it says to remove the vortech plastic idler pulley, we ended up leaving that in place
Last edited by sentry65; 02-23-2007 at 12:05 PM.
02-24-2007, 02:24 AM
#263
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sentry,
Out of curiousity and i can understand you not wanting to say, but how much have you put into your car to date with the modifications. For what you have done with it, i am impressed..my wife would have killed me..lol
Out of curiousity and i can understand you not wanting to say, but how much have you put into your car to date with the modifications. For what you have done with it, i am impressed..my wife would have killed me..lol
02-24-2007, 02:33 AM
#264
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Originally Posted by sentry65
have a video of the car, as I posted in that thread I started up:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NtmGmJLppoA
Jon from Dynocomp emailed me saying he got the new TIMROD belt setup finished and it's working great so far and sent me this video of it. For those who have been curious how a "properly" set up vortech sounds at idle - there you go, there's no rattling, wobbling, squeeling, or vibration sounds, just the jet engine sounding whine from the blower. Bear in mind the camera is RIGHT next to the blower so of course it's gonna sound pretty loud in comparison to everything else
BTW you can see my fuel pressure dropping due to what everyone suspects is something wrong with my fuel pump assembly. I don't remember what it drops to at redline, something like 35-40psi. I'm still planning on installing the CJM stage 2 fuel line and twin pump assembly ASAP when it's released.
he has my differencial taken off installing the solid diff mounts and JIC camber and traction rods. I did get to see the stock steering tie rods compared to the JIC ones this morning and the JIC ones really are much thicker - like 50-75% thicker.
anyway, for anyone considering the TIMROD pulley setup and is having a hard time finding a good machine shop locally (took me a bit to find someone knowledgable about cars yet skilled at machine work), you can try giving the guy here a call:
Jakolat Machine Co
(602) 273-0335
31 S 42nd Pl Phoenix, AZ
you can maybe arrange something where you mail the pulley to him and he can mail it back to you. He charged me about $85
the part number of that pulley is:
210514p110
it's about $53 retail and a little hard to come by. It's made of steel. I was told it's a pretty tough grade quality steel. Sorry I don't have a before/after picture. You need the ribs machined off and the lips smoothed and widened slightly.
The other thing is in the 2nd pic here where it says to remove the vortech plastic idler pulley, we ended up leaving that in place
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NtmGmJLppoA
Jon from Dynocomp emailed me saying he got the new TIMROD belt setup finished and it's working great so far and sent me this video of it. For those who have been curious how a "properly" set up vortech sounds at idle - there you go, there's no rattling, wobbling, squeeling, or vibration sounds, just the jet engine sounding whine from the blower. Bear in mind the camera is RIGHT next to the blower so of course it's gonna sound pretty loud in comparison to everything else
BTW you can see my fuel pressure dropping due to what everyone suspects is something wrong with my fuel pump assembly. I don't remember what it drops to at redline, something like 35-40psi. I'm still planning on installing the CJM stage 2 fuel line and twin pump assembly ASAP when it's released.
he has my differencial taken off installing the solid diff mounts and JIC camber and traction rods. I did get to see the stock steering tie rods compared to the JIC ones this morning and the JIC ones really are much thicker - like 50-75% thicker.
anyway, for anyone considering the TIMROD pulley setup and is having a hard time finding a good machine shop locally (took me a bit to find someone knowledgable about cars yet skilled at machine work), you can try giving the guy here a call:
Jakolat Machine Co
(602) 273-0335
31 S 42nd Pl Phoenix, AZ
you can maybe arrange something where you mail the pulley to him and he can mail it back to you. He charged me about $85
the part number of that pulley is:
210514p110
it's about $53 retail and a little hard to come by. It's made of steel. I was told it's a pretty tough grade quality steel. Sorry I don't have a before/after picture. You need the ribs machined off and the lips smoothed and widened slightly.
The other thing is in the 2nd pic here where it says to remove the vortech plastic idler pulley, we ended up leaving that in place
So Sentry, what are the exact steps of the belt routing. I believe you need to grind down some bolts as well?
02-24-2007, 08:35 AM
#265
so far the people that have tried buying the 2.8 pulley sold by the company mentioned in this thread:
https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....lley+grip+belt doesn't fit and there was no way to machine it to fit from what people said.
The new belt design that TIMROD came up with is a better belt design. It doesn't have 3 long stretches of belt in a row which can contribute to slipping. It wraps around the crank pulley and power steering pulley more. If you add the additional idler pulley under the supercharger pulley, you can get more wrap around the supercharger pulley. You no longer have to tighten the belt so hard which can be bad on your bearings, take more hp to turn the belt, and puts more stress on the crank pulley which can make for instance a KJR pulley wear out faster
the step by step process is fairly simple. TIMROD gave a step by step before but I'll give my version:
-call a nissan dealer and buy the idler pulley (part # 210514p110) for $53. They'll probably have to special order it...
- take that pulley to a machine shop to machine down the ribs until it's smooth. Also widen the width just slightly so there's more width for the belt to fit in and make sure everything is smooth. See attached picture. The pulley is black. When it's machined, the surface that the back of the belt touches will be silver. If you can't find a local machine shop or don't want to bother looking (took me like 45 min of calling shops I looked up with google) you can try calling Marty, the guy who machined mine:
Jakolat Machine Co
(602) 273-0335
31 S 42nd Pl Phoenix, AZ
He charged $85. Maybe you can ship it to him to machine the exact same way.
- "Purchase a 92-1/8 long V-Belt Gates # 060915 (for 2.87 Dia Pulley or a Delta 060923 (for 3.31 dia Pulley)" ...as TIMROD said (my belt ended up needing to be a shorter belt though)
- replace the old idler pulley with your new machined one.
- it's optional if you want to add the extra pulley under the superchrager pulley (shown in 2nd attached pic) I don't have a part number. Mine is a metal one
- (as shown in 2nd attached picture) wrap the belt around the way shown in the picture attached. It's optional if you want to remove the top idler pulley or keep it on and wrap the belt around it.
- not sure on the grinding down bolts thing or not because I didn't install it first hand, my shop did, so they took care of any loose ends like grinding down bolts etc
ncparamedic, I'll PM you, but I can say right now that too much money has been spent on this car...and I still don't have a built engine
https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....lley+grip+belt doesn't fit and there was no way to machine it to fit from what people said.
The new belt design that TIMROD came up with is a better belt design. It doesn't have 3 long stretches of belt in a row which can contribute to slipping. It wraps around the crank pulley and power steering pulley more. If you add the additional idler pulley under the supercharger pulley, you can get more wrap around the supercharger pulley. You no longer have to tighten the belt so hard which can be bad on your bearings, take more hp to turn the belt, and puts more stress on the crank pulley which can make for instance a KJR pulley wear out faster
the step by step process is fairly simple. TIMROD gave a step by step before but I'll give my version:
-call a nissan dealer and buy the idler pulley (part # 210514p110) for $53. They'll probably have to special order it...
- take that pulley to a machine shop to machine down the ribs until it's smooth. Also widen the width just slightly so there's more width for the belt to fit in and make sure everything is smooth. See attached picture. The pulley is black. When it's machined, the surface that the back of the belt touches will be silver. If you can't find a local machine shop or don't want to bother looking (took me like 45 min of calling shops I looked up with google) you can try calling Marty, the guy who machined mine:
Jakolat Machine Co
(602) 273-0335
31 S 42nd Pl Phoenix, AZ
He charged $85. Maybe you can ship it to him to machine the exact same way.
- "Purchase a 92-1/8 long V-Belt Gates # 060915 (for 2.87 Dia Pulley or a Delta 060923 (for 3.31 dia Pulley)" ...as TIMROD said (my belt ended up needing to be a shorter belt though)
- replace the old idler pulley with your new machined one.
- it's optional if you want to add the extra pulley under the superchrager pulley (shown in 2nd attached pic) I don't have a part number. Mine is a metal one
- (as shown in 2nd attached picture) wrap the belt around the way shown in the picture attached. It's optional if you want to remove the top idler pulley or keep it on and wrap the belt around it.
- not sure on the grinding down bolts thing or not because I didn't install it first hand, my shop did, so they took care of any loose ends like grinding down bolts etc
ncparamedic, I'll PM you, but I can say right now that too much money has been spent on this car...and I still don't have a built engine
Last edited by sentry65; 02-28-2007 at 08:49 AM.
02-24-2007, 08:08 PM
#271
thanks guys 
jonb7007, I'm not built yet, but I am running 50/50 pump and race gas plus water injection. The only thing I've done internally is cams.
I should be getting tuned on monday or tuesday so I'll have some more info then. I mean, you never know - I could just blow up on the dyno
jonb7007, I'm not built yet, but I am running 50/50 pump and race gas plus water injection. The only thing I've done internally is cams.
I should be getting tuned on monday or tuesday so I'll have some more info then. I mean, you never know - I could just blow up on the dyno
02-25-2007, 05:23 AM
#272
Originally Posted by sentry65
thanks guys
jonb7007, I'm not built yet, but I am running 50/50 pump and race gas plus water injection. The only thing I've done internally is cams.
I should be getting tuned on monday or tuesday so I'll have some more info then. I mean, you never know - I could just blow up on the dyno
jonb7007, I'm not built yet, but I am running 50/50 pump and race gas plus water injection. The only thing I've done internally is cams.
I should be getting tuned on monday or tuesday so I'll have some more info then. I mean, you never know - I could just blow up on the dyno
.. Let us know what happens.. Hey bye the way, hows the clutch working for ya?
Last edited by Jay'Z; 02-25-2007 at 07:35 AM.
02-25-2007, 10:17 AM
#273
the clutch isn't too bad. It's a huge improvement in drivability from the tilton I used to use when I was NA. Every now and then it seems a bit tricky because it's not as consistent as a normal clutch since it becomes more grabby as it warms up.
02-28-2007, 08:17 AM
#274
some pics
APS dual 2.5 exhaust is currently on my car - haven't heard it in person yet though, but will today a few hours from now. It fits the GT spec lateral bar perfectly. You can also see my new JIC camber and traction rods. I will be adding the aero plate to go on the rear muffler when I can get ahold of one. I tossed my old one with my stock exhaust a long time ago - not knowing it could actually even come off. I think the APS exhaust is one of the only exhausts that can actually reuse it. Without hearing it on my car yet, if I'm not quite happy with the sound I'm thinking I can add an X-pipe to it and then it'll kinda be similar in design to the Fast Intentions exhaust, which I had issues with and am in the process of returning...
if you look closely, you can see the blue SPL solid diff bushings and subframe bushing. I'm really thinking these will make a noticable difference considering I have solid motor mounts. If you think about it, even though the engine is twisting less and that force is going down the driveshaft instead, it's just going to end up making the diff twist more. Now that that's locked down, the extra twist will fully go to the axles and wheels. I have no plans to use a solid transmission mount because the stock one seems good enough and since the engine isn't moving, that tranny really doesn't move much at all anyway
APS dual 2.5 exhaust is currently on my car - haven't heard it in person yet though, but will today a few hours from now. It fits the GT spec lateral bar perfectly. You can also see my new JIC camber and traction rods. I will be adding the aero plate to go on the rear muffler when I can get ahold of one. I tossed my old one with my stock exhaust a long time ago - not knowing it could actually even come off. I think the APS exhaust is one of the only exhausts that can actually reuse it. Without hearing it on my car yet, if I'm not quite happy with the sound I'm thinking I can add an X-pipe to it and then it'll kinda be similar in design to the Fast Intentions exhaust, which I had issues with and am in the process of returning...
if you look closely, you can see the blue SPL solid diff bushings and subframe bushing. I'm really thinking these will make a noticable difference considering I have solid motor mounts. If you think about it, even though the engine is twisting less and that force is going down the driveshaft instead, it's just going to end up making the diff twist more. Now that that's locked down, the extra twist will fully go to the axles and wheels. I have no plans to use a solid transmission mount because the stock one seems good enough and since the engine isn't moving, that tranny really doesn't move much at all anyway
Last edited by sentry65; 02-28-2007 at 09:24 AM.
02-28-2007, 08:18 AM
#275
more pics
I'll see if I can get some video today of it on the dyno, and I'll of course post the dyno results.
Oh, it turned out for that belt modification, at least on my car, we had to go with a slightly different length belt than the GATES part # that TIMROD listed. I'll list the part number if I can find out what it is. Oh, and we did end up removing that "optional" idler pulley because we were running out of adjustable tension on the tensioner pulley
I'll see if I can get some video today of it on the dyno, and I'll of course post the dyno results.
Oh, it turned out for that belt modification, at least on my car, we had to go with a slightly different length belt than the GATES part # that TIMROD listed. I'll list the part number if I can find out what it is. Oh, and we did end up removing that "optional" idler pulley because we were running out of adjustable tension on the tensioner pulley
Last edited by sentry65; 02-28-2007 at 01:05 PM.
02-28-2007, 08:49 AM
#278
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Originally Posted by sentry65
thanks, I'm using the APS oil pan
02-28-2007, 08:51 AM
#279
yeah I'm not using the front GT spec bar because there's no way it'd clear the APS oil pan. And that goes double on my car because I'm using solid motor mounts which lower the engine 1/4 of an inch even more.
Solid motor mounts basically do the same thing that bar does though - only more so since it braces more of the chasis instead of just the bottom portion of it like what that bar does
Solid motor mounts basically do the same thing that bar does though - only more so since it braces more of the chasis instead of just the bottom portion of it like what that bar does