my vortech tuner kit install process thread
07-18-2006, 07:55 PM
#224
update:
had some DeatschWerks 650cc injectors installed and ran into some problems. Right off the bat, my A/F was running lean. At idle the gauge read in the 17's (driver side) yet the exhaust readout read around the 15's - when both should have been 14.7. According to the scan tool, the ECU was adding 25% fuel to one cylinder bank, and subtracting 4% from the other bank. The car also was not idling well. It was more jerky and quieter - more vibration too.
First reaction was there must be a bad injector and the car is misfiring. The famous P300 code that we all get showed up of course.
they tried listening with a stephoscope thing and each injector was working, however the #2 injector seemed quieter - which was on the bank that the A/F gauge was mounted on. Also we started smelling something burning, and there was even a loud pop that came out of the exhaust at one point when the car was idling.
Turns out the header and cat on that side were already red hot and the car was only idling, some occasional quick revs to 5000rpm or so, and holding the rpms at 3000-4000 rpms to warm the car up and get readings etc. It was only for like 3-5 minutes too so it wasn't very long. There was a brief thought that something might be clogging the cat
The conclusion was that that #2 injector isn't the same as the rest or not working fully.
I hope nothing was hurt, but you never know. Anyway, I'm now going to return the DeatschWerks injectors and buy some RC750cc injectors - yeah they're bigger than I need, but screw it. 650 vs 750 probably isn't going to idle much different and I soooo want to be done messing with injectors.
My fuel leak has been fixed. One of the fuel lines was apparently too loose.
The shop was really trying to sway me to get some test pipes or resonated test pipes and possibly a dual exhaust instead of my crawford HF cats and nismo exhaust so the engine doesn't have to fight so hard to get the heat out. My thinking is that'd probably net me 10-20ish whp, but start to rasp a little (which I just won't tolerate) and possibly be obnoxiously loud. I wouldn't hesitate on a turbo setup to go that route, but with a supercharger with cams and headers, it's already a pretty loud setup.
Rich was saying he was actually really impressed I hit 400whp on their dynodynamics dyno without a dual exhaust and test pipes. He assumed that's what I've always been running and seemed a little floored about my power levels with still using cats and a "single" exhaust because he's never seen a Z on his dyno make near 400whp that didn't have a full dual exhaust and test pipes - though of course he's talking about mostly turbo cars.
he was trying to tell me that a dual 2.5 inch exhaust is like a single 5 inch exhaust compared to my single 3 inch exhaust, and I don't actually agree with that because the area of a circle or cylinder profile is pi(r)^2 which means it's basically comparing 12.5 dual vs 9 nismo (a 39% difference), not 5 vs 3 (a 67% difference). I also think it's a more open exhaust setup than what would be on a typical single turbo kit where it branches into a Y way way earlier right after the headers where my JIC Y pipe merges halfway down the car. I think I'm going to stick with my HF cats and exhaust at least for the time being. Someday when I upgrade the blower I'll think about changing some exhaust stuff around
In other news, my hood has now been aligned really nice by adjusting the front bracket and latch and I also had half of my oil cooler installed until we discovered my sandwich plate was missing. I also have a coolant temp gauge installed - there's a lot of gauges in my car now, 6 aftermarket ones as well as the three stock ones and then the ones on the steering rack.
I keep forgetting to ask John what pulley he used for that pulley mod - sorry guys, many have asked me. IMO I think it helps, but I don't think it'll fully solve the issue at higher boost levels.
had some DeatschWerks 650cc injectors installed and ran into some problems. Right off the bat, my A/F was running lean. At idle the gauge read in the 17's (driver side) yet the exhaust readout read around the 15's - when both should have been 14.7. According to the scan tool, the ECU was adding 25% fuel to one cylinder bank, and subtracting 4% from the other bank. The car also was not idling well. It was more jerky and quieter - more vibration too.
First reaction was there must be a bad injector and the car is misfiring. The famous P300 code that we all get showed up of course.
they tried listening with a stephoscope thing and each injector was working, however the #2 injector seemed quieter - which was on the bank that the A/F gauge was mounted on. Also we started smelling something burning, and there was even a loud pop that came out of the exhaust at one point when the car was idling.
Turns out the header and cat on that side were already red hot and the car was only idling, some occasional quick revs to 5000rpm or so, and holding the rpms at 3000-4000 rpms to warm the car up and get readings etc. It was only for like 3-5 minutes too so it wasn't very long. There was a brief thought that something might be clogging the cat
The conclusion was that that #2 injector isn't the same as the rest or not working fully.
I hope nothing was hurt, but you never know. Anyway, I'm now going to return the DeatschWerks injectors and buy some RC750cc injectors - yeah they're bigger than I need, but screw it. 650 vs 750 probably isn't going to idle much different and I soooo want to be done messing with injectors.
My fuel leak has been fixed. One of the fuel lines was apparently too loose.
The shop was really trying to sway me to get some test pipes or resonated test pipes and possibly a dual exhaust instead of my crawford HF cats and nismo exhaust so the engine doesn't have to fight so hard to get the heat out. My thinking is that'd probably net me 10-20ish whp, but start to rasp a little (which I just won't tolerate) and possibly be obnoxiously loud. I wouldn't hesitate on a turbo setup to go that route, but with a supercharger with cams and headers, it's already a pretty loud setup.
Rich was saying he was actually really impressed I hit 400whp on their dynodynamics dyno without a dual exhaust and test pipes. He assumed that's what I've always been running and seemed a little floored about my power levels with still using cats and a "single" exhaust because he's never seen a Z on his dyno make near 400whp that didn't have a full dual exhaust and test pipes - though of course he's talking about mostly turbo cars.
he was trying to tell me that a dual 2.5 inch exhaust is like a single 5 inch exhaust compared to my single 3 inch exhaust, and I don't actually agree with that because the area of a circle or cylinder profile is pi(r)^2 which means it's basically comparing 12.5 dual vs 9 nismo (a 39% difference), not 5 vs 3 (a 67% difference). I also think it's a more open exhaust setup than what would be on a typical single turbo kit where it branches into a Y way way earlier right after the headers where my JIC Y pipe merges halfway down the car. I think I'm going to stick with my HF cats and exhaust at least for the time being. Someday when I upgrade the blower I'll think about changing some exhaust stuff around
In other news, my hood has now been aligned really nice by adjusting the front bracket and latch and I also had half of my oil cooler installed until we discovered my sandwich plate was missing. I also have a coolant temp gauge installed - there's a lot of gauges in my car now, 6 aftermarket ones as well as the three stock ones and then the ones on the steering rack.
I keep forgetting to ask John what pulley he used for that pulley mod - sorry guys, many have asked me. IMO I think it helps, but I don't think it'll fully solve the issue at higher boost levels.
Last edited by sentry65; 07-19-2006 at 08:01 AM.
07-18-2006, 08:06 PM
#225
Registered User
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Miami, FL
Posts: 4,328
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Sentry,
I am upgrading my RC750's on Friday to Denso 1000's. I'll sell you my 750's for $525 shipped with clips.
I am upgrading my RC750's on Friday to Denso 1000's. I'll sell you my 750's for $525 shipped with clips.
Last edited by Gman2004; 07-18-2006 at 08:10 PM.
07-31-2006, 10:10 AM
#229
update:
had an oil cooler installed. My oil temps read 180-183 during the regular day driving though lately it's been about 10 degrees cooler outside than when I was last driving my car. Still though I'm really happy with the oil cooler. My car actually takes about 7 quarts of oil now believe it or not. I had 6 put in initially, but when I finally got home I saw that it was still a little low and it took another quart and a quarter. I'm sure some oil was burned up a little on the dyno possibly though.
had a temp gauge for the coolant installed - great gauge cause it proves to me how worthless the stock coolant gauge is. It's absolute crap. My coolant temp will be at say 160 degrees and the stock one reads just a little under halfway (normal) As the car warms up it'll reach 180 degrees and the stock gauge hasn't budged. After some long driving I'll park and as I'm getting ready to leave sitting in the parking lot for about 1 minute I see the coolant is around 200 degrees because the car is just sitting there and again the stock coolant gauge hasn't moved a bit. That's 40 degrees of range at least that the stock gauge doesn't do crap. Totally worthless.
shop aligned my hood better, much better fit up front.
I had some RC 750 injectors put in and they run fine. I really can't notice any difference in low end power lost, even on the dynocharts compared to my last dyno. If there is some power lost it's gotta be below 1000 which would be below my idle. They're way bigger than I need, but I have some headroom at least for the future. You can hear them pulsing at idle. It's more of like a ticking sorta sound that before was blurred and quieter to where you wouldn't notice it.
I'm still having a fuel pressure issue though and am working steps to solve that.
had an oil cooler installed. My oil temps read 180-183 during the regular day driving though lately it's been about 10 degrees cooler outside than when I was last driving my car. Still though I'm really happy with the oil cooler. My car actually takes about 7 quarts of oil now believe it or not. I had 6 put in initially, but when I finally got home I saw that it was still a little low and it took another quart and a quarter. I'm sure some oil was burned up a little on the dyno possibly though.
had a temp gauge for the coolant installed - great gauge cause it proves to me how worthless the stock coolant gauge is. It's absolute crap. My coolant temp will be at say 160 degrees and the stock one reads just a little under halfway (normal) As the car warms up it'll reach 180 degrees and the stock gauge hasn't budged. After some long driving I'll park and as I'm getting ready to leave sitting in the parking lot for about 1 minute I see the coolant is around 200 degrees because the car is just sitting there and again the stock coolant gauge hasn't moved a bit. That's 40 degrees of range at least that the stock gauge doesn't do crap. Totally worthless.
shop aligned my hood better, much better fit up front.
I had some RC 750 injectors put in and they run fine. I really can't notice any difference in low end power lost, even on the dynocharts compared to my last dyno. If there is some power lost it's gotta be below 1000 which would be below my idle. They're way bigger than I need, but I have some headroom at least for the future. You can hear them pulsing at idle. It's more of like a ticking sorta sound that before was blurred and quieter to where you wouldn't notice it.
I'm still having a fuel pressure issue though and am working steps to solve that.
Last edited by sentry65; 07-31-2006 at 12:56 PM.
07-31-2006, 01:19 PM
#231
the fuel pressure was the same as it was in the past hitting 32psi at redline, but halfway into tuning it started hitting 15psi and ran lean - like into the 14's one time even (thank god for race gas). Nothing seemed to get it back to how it was before, even with a known good map on the emanage ultimate
right now based on everything else we've already tried, the fuel pressure options are as follows:
I'm having AAM flash my ECU for the 750cc injectors and raise my idle ever so slightly. Maybe there's a bug in technosquare's flash with fuel pressure or something, though Mike at AAM doesn't think that's the likely issue - and I tend to think so too, but you never know. Either way I'd like it to be scaled to the 750's and a idle at 1100 rpms would be nice for drivability with my clutch
Charles at CJM suggested to try directly connecting the battery to the fuel pump. That maybe the wiring to the pump isn't as good as it should be.
some of the guys at dynocomp suggested possibly getting a a whole new fuel pump assembly. I have AAM's instructions for their fuel return kit for dynocomp to reference against how they installed the CJM return kit. In case it was somehow installed wrong.
upgrade to the stage 2 CJM kit.
last resort is to get the AAM big flow fuel pump and external tank and that'll actually be responsible for pumping the fuel to the engine and the walbro's job will be to keep that external tank full. Another benefit would be that'd eliminate all possible fuel starvation issues during hard right cornering when running low on gas, and I'd be able to run the car hard on damn near empty with little worries
right now based on everything else we've already tried, the fuel pressure options are as follows:
I'm having AAM flash my ECU for the 750cc injectors and raise my idle ever so slightly. Maybe there's a bug in technosquare's flash with fuel pressure or something, though Mike at AAM doesn't think that's the likely issue - and I tend to think so too, but you never know. Either way I'd like it to be scaled to the 750's and a idle at 1100 rpms would be nice for drivability with my clutch
Charles at CJM suggested to try directly connecting the battery to the fuel pump. That maybe the wiring to the pump isn't as good as it should be.
some of the guys at dynocomp suggested possibly getting a a whole new fuel pump assembly. I have AAM's instructions for their fuel return kit for dynocomp to reference against how they installed the CJM return kit. In case it was somehow installed wrong.
upgrade to the stage 2 CJM kit.
last resort is to get the AAM big flow fuel pump and external tank and that'll actually be responsible for pumping the fuel to the engine and the walbro's job will be to keep that external tank full. Another benefit would be that'd eliminate all possible fuel starvation issues during hard right cornering when running low on gas, and I'd be able to run the car hard on damn near empty with little worries
Last edited by sentry65; 07-31-2006 at 01:28 PM.
07-31-2006, 04:28 PM
#232
Just FYI i tested the CJM system and went full throttle 570+ rwhp well after the gas light was on, and also got on it hard during some turns (with no issues). While I DO NOT recommend you repeat that - I wouldnt worry about starvation in that way unless fully setup road racing... the AAM Big Flow pump will definatly be able to keep the fuel around better then the stock canister - however its just sooo overkill for your setup.
08-03-2006, 02:29 PM
#233
Vendor - Former Vendor
iTrader: (58)
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 1,053
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Good luck with the build.
And to comment on the fuel pumps. The Walbro 341 and 342 both flow the same, only difference is the side the electrical connector is on. 341 has the connector flipped 180*
-Dan
And to comment on the fuel pumps. The Walbro 341 and 342 both flow the same, only difference is the side the electrical connector is on. 341 has the connector flipped 180*
-Dan
11-29-2006, 08:22 PM
#234
back from the dead
I have some somewhat preliminary info about my car. I have removed the emanage ultimate. I sent my ECU to AAM for their vortech 2.87 pulley flash and am using that along with a (drumroll) SAFCII and a MSD boosterpump voltage booster along with my 750cc injectors, walbro pump, and CJM return kit and the setup seems to work. The timing map from AAM seems to be a winner, though it was pig-*** rich in the midrange (8's A/F) and my crawford cats burned out while on the dyno
The SAFCII is primitive and only adjusts fuel, but it has 50 A/F adjustment points and can adjust up to +/-50% and works by tweaking the MAF voltage before it makes it's way to the ECU so it never really maxes out as far as the ECU is concerned. So in essense, the ECU is really running the show. The booster pump is a way to force more fuel to be delivered to the injectors. I think it was adding an extra 1-1.5 volts to the fuel pump and it only activates once a certain psi of boost pressure is reached. It can be used in conjunction with the SAFCII so the SAFCII isn't doing any crazy huge adjustments with fuel, but it's a little tricky going back and forth adjusting A/F until you realize you have to readjust the voltage boost to the pump, then back to the SAFCII etc
Dynocomp is also getting some ECU software from a new company that is going to make the ECU capable of dealing with more air than what the stock MAF maxes out at and can be tuned on the dyno through the OBDII port. It's expected to arive in Feb or March. I'm planning to try it out and see how it does.
I also added the HKS ignition amplifier and some AAM high flow cats (for now anyway - the cats fit like total *** and don't use any bracing)
That was all that's been done to my car as far as power and I gained almost 35 tq at the wheels and 10whp. It's due to several things - it's colder now than when it was 112 degrees in the middle of summer when I last tuned and boost is coming earlier than before, but the dyno does correct for ambient temps. The dyno is basically indoors though with the garage doors open way in the back, but it still felt maybe 5-10 degrees cooler standing over by the dyno. The AAM timing map is probably more aggressive than my old setup, I actually have somewhat normal fuel pressure now, the HKS unit helps and so do the higher flowing cats
The graph I'm attaching just shows a run where it made 401whp, but it was late and just grabbed a graph to print out. These aren't final tuned numbers because there's still some things being worked out with my boost hoses so it wasn't a big deal. The car was constantly hitting 400whp and 370 tq when it was hot but there were 2 or 3 runs with decent A/F curves where the car made 378tq and 411whp on their dyno dynamics dyno with around 96 octane gas. Dynojet numbers usually run higher.
My boost pressure is doing something weird where it shoots up to 11 psi by around 5500 rpms, then seems to stay there until redline like it had a wastegate or something. This is why my torque starts dropping off and my hp flattens out. That's the issue they're working on next. The torque curve should stay fairly flat all the way to redline from 5000rpms onward. So I should have another 15-20 tq and 20-25 hp available at 6500 rpms if things get figured out unless how it is now is just how my boost curve is supposed to be with cams and headers etc
I'll update my numbers as things become more "final" but this is the ballpark of where I'm currently at
other things I had done were the tanabe underside brace and I relocated my battery to the rear of the car with a summit racing battery relocation kit since the supercharger likes batteries with lots of cranking amps instead of the tiny lightweight ones
up next I have a whole crapload of handling things, just waiting on two parts to arrive
Dynocomp keeps trying to convince me to ditch my nismo exhaust but I just love how it sounds and even though it's probably my biggest bottleneck besides my high flow cats, I'm not convinced changing it would result in mindblowing gains unless I had like 50-100 more whp
I have some somewhat preliminary info about my car. I have removed the emanage ultimate. I sent my ECU to AAM for their vortech 2.87 pulley flash and am using that along with a (drumroll) SAFCII and a MSD boosterpump voltage booster along with my 750cc injectors, walbro pump, and CJM return kit and the setup seems to work. The timing map from AAM seems to be a winner, though it was pig-*** rich in the midrange (8's A/F) and my crawford cats burned out while on the dyno
The SAFCII is primitive and only adjusts fuel, but it has 50 A/F adjustment points and can adjust up to +/-50% and works by tweaking the MAF voltage before it makes it's way to the ECU so it never really maxes out as far as the ECU is concerned. So in essense, the ECU is really running the show. The booster pump is a way to force more fuel to be delivered to the injectors. I think it was adding an extra 1-1.5 volts to the fuel pump and it only activates once a certain psi of boost pressure is reached. It can be used in conjunction with the SAFCII so the SAFCII isn't doing any crazy huge adjustments with fuel, but it's a little tricky going back and forth adjusting A/F until you realize you have to readjust the voltage boost to the pump, then back to the SAFCII etc
Dynocomp is also getting some ECU software from a new company that is going to make the ECU capable of dealing with more air than what the stock MAF maxes out at and can be tuned on the dyno through the OBDII port. It's expected to arive in Feb or March. I'm planning to try it out and see how it does.
I also added the HKS ignition amplifier and some AAM high flow cats (for now anyway - the cats fit like total *** and don't use any bracing)
That was all that's been done to my car as far as power and I gained almost 35 tq at the wheels and 10whp. It's due to several things - it's colder now than when it was 112 degrees in the middle of summer when I last tuned and boost is coming earlier than before, but the dyno does correct for ambient temps. The dyno is basically indoors though with the garage doors open way in the back, but it still felt maybe 5-10 degrees cooler standing over by the dyno. The AAM timing map is probably more aggressive than my old setup, I actually have somewhat normal fuel pressure now, the HKS unit helps and so do the higher flowing cats
The graph I'm attaching just shows a run where it made 401whp, but it was late and just grabbed a graph to print out. These aren't final tuned numbers because there's still some things being worked out with my boost hoses so it wasn't a big deal. The car was constantly hitting 400whp and 370 tq when it was hot but there were 2 or 3 runs with decent A/F curves where the car made 378tq and 411whp on their dyno dynamics dyno with around 96 octane gas. Dynojet numbers usually run higher.
My boost pressure is doing something weird where it shoots up to 11 psi by around 5500 rpms, then seems to stay there until redline like it had a wastegate or something. This is why my torque starts dropping off and my hp flattens out. That's the issue they're working on next. The torque curve should stay fairly flat all the way to redline from 5000rpms onward. So I should have another 15-20 tq and 20-25 hp available at 6500 rpms if things get figured out unless how it is now is just how my boost curve is supposed to be with cams and headers etc
I'll update my numbers as things become more "final" but this is the ballpark of where I'm currently at
other things I had done were the tanabe underside brace and I relocated my battery to the rear of the car with a summit racing battery relocation kit since the supercharger likes batteries with lots of cranking amps instead of the tiny lightweight ones
up next I have a whole crapload of handling things, just waiting on two parts to arrive
Dynocomp keeps trying to convince me to ditch my nismo exhaust but I just love how it sounds and even though it's probably my biggest bottleneck besides my high flow cats, I'm not convinced changing it would result in mindblowing gains unless I had like 50-100 more whp
Last edited by sentry65; 11-30-2006 at 02:09 PM.
11-30-2006, 02:24 PM
#235
update:
car hit 435whp on the dyno today multiple times with normal A/F when the engine was cooled off
it consistently hits 415whp when running hot
that's what they told me on the phone anyway
That HKS ignition amplifier I think did a lot more than everyone thought it would. I'd like to regap my plugs to something like .035 to see if that improves anything, but probably won't be a huge deal. Right now they're something like .028 or .029
car hit 435whp on the dyno today multiple times with normal A/F when the engine was cooled off
it consistently hits 415whp when running hot
that's what they told me on the phone anyway
That HKS ignition amplifier I think did a lot more than everyone thought it would. I'd like to regap my plugs to something like .035 to see if that improves anything, but probably won't be a huge deal. Right now they're something like .028 or .029
Last edited by sentry65; 12-01-2006 at 05:30 AM.
11-30-2006, 02:38 PM
#237
that's what's a little strange, that was with 11.5 lbs of boost or so
then they said that as the car got hotter, the boost pressure seemed to go up. So I dunno, I don't have a graph yet.
They're going to keep the car for some more work so I'll pick up a dynosheet next time I'm there
then they said that as the car got hotter, the boost pressure seemed to go up. So I dunno, I don't have a graph yet.
They're going to keep the car for some more work so I'll pick up a dynosheet next time I'm there
Last edited by sentry65; 11-30-2006 at 02:40 PM.
11-30-2006, 04:54 PM
#238
Registered User
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Yonkers NY
Posts: 862
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
sentry i have a nismo exhaust sitting here i was going to install should i just sell it im running 95. psi on the blower <ati> i thought itd be plenty of flow for a s/c car what are you thinking dual 2.5's? also what swaybars ya going with? ill let you do the research for me haha but im leaning towards hotchkis
11-30-2006, 05:02 PM
#239
I think most sway bars are fine. As long as they're adjustable, I'm sure you can find a setting that works well with your spring rates and tires. I went with 350EVO bars, but think Hotchkis are really nice too - weigh less too I think
as far as the nismo exhaust, that's what I'm running and I'm planning on keeping it for as long as I can until it's really time to move on to something higher flowing. That's all I was saying really. Dynocomp would love to sell me a $1600 APS true dual 2.5 exhaust, but I don't think that'd be the one I'd get. I've been considering the Fast Intentions dual exhaust, but for $1600, I'd rather not until more people have it so I can get more feedback.
Like I said though, I'm very happy with my nismo exhaust and don't think it's causing me to lose much power at all. If anything, it's contributing to my midrange power. If I went dual 2.5 exhaust, all it'd do is cause me to lose some low end power and gain top end - it'd just shift the powerband around.
When you consider that there's all sorts of ST and even TT cars with single 3 inch exhausts on their car and the ST cars are even sometimes running a cat (instead of two because it's a ST) I think the nismo is fine for the vortech until you start getting around 500+whp. And even then I think if you ran test pipes, cams, and headers, I think the nismo would STILL be perfectly fine to use for a bit. I'll probably never use test pipes though - just too loud for a street car IMO
as far as the nismo exhaust, that's what I'm running and I'm planning on keeping it for as long as I can until it's really time to move on to something higher flowing. That's all I was saying really. Dynocomp would love to sell me a $1600 APS true dual 2.5 exhaust, but I don't think that'd be the one I'd get. I've been considering the Fast Intentions dual exhaust, but for $1600, I'd rather not until more people have it so I can get more feedback.
Like I said though, I'm very happy with my nismo exhaust and don't think it's causing me to lose much power at all. If anything, it's contributing to my midrange power. If I went dual 2.5 exhaust, all it'd do is cause me to lose some low end power and gain top end - it'd just shift the powerband around.
When you consider that there's all sorts of ST and even TT cars with single 3 inch exhausts on their car and the ST cars are even sometimes running a cat (instead of two because it's a ST) I think the nismo is fine for the vortech until you start getting around 500+whp. And even then I think if you ran test pipes, cams, and headers, I think the nismo would STILL be perfectly fine to use for a bit. I'll probably never use test pipes though - just too loud for a street car IMO
Last edited by sentry65; 12-01-2006 at 05:32 AM.
11-30-2006, 07:04 PM
#240
Originally Posted by sentry65
that's what's a little strange, that was with 11.5 lbs of boost or so
then they said that as the car got hotter, the boost pressure seemed to go up. So I dunno, I don't have a graph yet.
They're going to keep the car for some more work so I'll pick up a dynosheet next time I'm there
then they said that as the car got hotter, the boost pressure seemed to go up. So I dunno, I don't have a graph yet.
They're going to keep the car for some more work so I'll pick up a dynosheet next time I'm there