Which block to get? AEBS 4.3 , SFR, etc..???
03-26-2006, 01:40 AM
#21
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Originally Posted by SSR Engineering
What are you talking about? The rod to stroke ratio in a VQ35DE is 1.77:1 that's nearly perfect. Do you know what consists of a failure of revving a 1.77:1 engine to 8500RPM? it's not high piston speeds, because the piston speeds arent that high. It's stock rod bolts. Stock rod bolts tend to stretch when they are over-revved, causing.. yep you guessed it spun rod bearings. 
an AEBS stroker kit lowers the rod to stroke ratio and makes the engine harder to rev safely.
an AEBS stroker kit lowers the rod to stroke ratio and makes the engine harder to rev safely.
03-26-2006, 07:48 AM
#22
Darton sleeved blocks can take 1000whp, but the 7/16th ARP head studs will most certainly not. 
Dont forget...its not just a matter of the short block and heads. There is a critical component in between: Head Gasket and studs. Lifting heads is a true risk above 700whp with 7/16th inch ARP head studs. If it only it were so simply.
Dont forget...its not just a matter of the short block and heads. There is a critical component in between: Head Gasket and studs. Lifting heads is a true risk above 700whp with 7/16th inch ARP head studs. If it only it were so simply.
I never suggested that! 
03-26-2006, 04:42 PM
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Originally Posted by mistaboosta
I think it is clear to understand but I was talking about the AEBS shortblock and its stroke ratio is not 1.77:1 as u said.
03-27-2006, 12:32 PM
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Originally Posted by 1G-350Z
+1.... PM's car rev's out to 10k with the same exact bore and stroke... My motor will be tunned between a modest 7.5-8k...
03-27-2006, 07:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Oleg
So I guess that you are doing the what you have called "dynoqueen turbo" upgrade on your JWT kit... The power curve of a JWT kit begins to taper after 5800... Maybe with cams you may make more then really cool sound revving that far up.
Currently on my bone stock heads and a base tune @ 6.8psi my peak whp of 418 is @ 6250. 
For wright now I'm real happy with my power band and the way the car is running...
03-28-2006, 08:22 AM
#32
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I hardly say that with many cc 4000 or 3800,torque spin might be a terror for 400m time trial.I mean that with more torgue less traction but better driving allround-no lag,and i mean it with all these small turbo kits out there you are gonna have NO lag.
But if the plan is to go fot T4 turbos and 22" wheels then it is good idea to start up building a 4litr motor
But if the plan is to go fot T4 turbos and 22" wheels then it is good idea to start up building a 4litr motor
03-28-2006, 09:19 AM
#33
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Hello,
I can verify...Making Big Big horsepower on a VQ35 (or any motor V8, V10, RB or 2JZ) is a chore and expensive for anyone...although not impossible.
$$$:
Expensive for you CAN'T just consider the motor, stroke, bore etc...and turbos. PLEASE Think About it...Clutch and Fly, Cams, Heads, Suspension to keep you stable, Brakes to stop you, and Tires to grip. They all have to match the power and this is done rarely.
NOTE: If you don't know, there is a tremendous difference between 450 WHP and 650+WHP. For Sure - For Sure - For Sure and everything starts to matter - Everything - at this level.
As for motors or statements of 1000+ WHP, don't believe everything you hear or read. A motor build handling power is one thing or at least talking about it, YET actually making it is another thing regardless if you can Redline at 8000-10000 RPM. Hell - I would rather make the power at lower RPM's for it is more useable torque with less pressure and stress on the motor.
QUESTION:
Where are all the 1000 WHP cars with the 1000 WHP motor builds??? Would love to see the dynos and list of parts to do so. Easy to talk about, not easy to reproduce...
500 WHP:
Realistically, from experience 500 WHP is the pinnacle WHP level. It is extremely fast and useable. It is perfect.
However, 650+ is fun and has a huge grin factor, yet not useable anywhere except the dyno and the drag strip. I am making my G35C an 800 WHP daily driving but I have a shop.
DRIVING:
I wouldn't let anyone drive it without me in the car for it is just too unpredictable, expensive, and dangerous. Alot of power.
So my $.02 is concentrate on making choices that you can use and afford and 500 WHP is perfect IMO.
Good luck.
M
I can verify...Making Big Big horsepower on a VQ35 (or any motor V8, V10, RB or 2JZ) is a chore and expensive for anyone...although not impossible.
$$$:
Expensive for you CAN'T just consider the motor, stroke, bore etc...and turbos. PLEASE Think About it...Clutch and Fly, Cams, Heads, Suspension to keep you stable, Brakes to stop you, and Tires to grip. They all have to match the power and this is done rarely.
NOTE: If you don't know, there is a tremendous difference between 450 WHP and 650+WHP. For Sure - For Sure - For Sure and everything starts to matter - Everything - at this level.
As for motors or statements of 1000+ WHP, don't believe everything you hear or read. A motor build handling power is one thing or at least talking about it, YET actually making it is another thing regardless if you can Redline at 8000-10000 RPM. Hell - I would rather make the power at lower RPM's for it is more useable torque with less pressure and stress on the motor.
QUESTION:
Where are all the 1000 WHP cars with the 1000 WHP motor builds??? Would love to see the dynos and list of parts to do so. Easy to talk about, not easy to reproduce...
500 WHP:
Realistically, from experience 500 WHP is the pinnacle WHP level. It is extremely fast and useable. It is perfect.
However, 650+ is fun and has a huge grin factor, yet not useable anywhere except the dyno and the drag strip. I am making my G35C an 800 WHP daily driving but I have a shop.
DRIVING:
I wouldn't let anyone drive it without me in the car for it is just too unpredictable, expensive, and dangerous. Alot of power.
So my $.02 is concentrate on making choices that you can use and afford and 500 WHP is perfect IMO.
Good luck.
M
Last edited by mraturbo; 03-28-2006 at 09:33 AM.
03-28-2006, 10:55 AM
#34
I haz da turbos
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I totally agree wit mraturbo. Go for a goal that's realistic, and that you can put every ponie to the ground safely. Whats the point in having 700 or 800 horsepower if you can only use half of it on the street with street tires, and without having to get your clutch replaced every weekend?
03-28-2006, 11:54 AM
#35
Originally Posted by Sharif@Forged
8000rpm will be a cake walk for a properly built VQ35. 
The question is, will cams, headwork, and valves provide enough airfow to sustain power all the way to 8000rpm.
The question is, will cams, headwork, and valves provide enough airfow to sustain power all the way to 8000rpm.
03-28-2006, 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by veilside350zTT
So if the arp head studs wont with stand more than 700hp what head studs should i get?
03-28-2006, 09:05 PM
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Originally Posted by ReV2Red
I totally agree wit mraturbo. Go for a goal that's realistic, and that you can put every ponie to the ground safely. Whats the point in having 700 or 800 horsepower if you can only use half of it on the street with street tires, and without having to get your clutch replaced every weekend?
Would like to see some of you rev your cars to 8000-10000. Let me know if the cams, valves, and heads stay together. It is always fun when you have sooo much pressure and airflow the Cams Actually Break!
Goodluck.
M
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