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Just Blew My Stock Motor With APS TT!!

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Old Apr 17, 2006 | 11:18 AM
  #101  
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Originally Posted by zman1910
It honestly doesn't seem like that is his goal. Keep your goals separate from his...
It is not about our goals. I am simply trying to make him think about what he really wants before making a decision. Again how many people thought they would be happy with a certain amount of hp and now are spending more $$$ to up the power? If Brian is abosultey sure he will not want more then fine, but he should consider all the options instead of having to rip things out later, because he needs/wants more hp like a $2 ***** wants crack cocaine. A lot of us have ending up like that.

And yes you can make 500whp on a short block, but at a higher boost pressure as compared to a long block. Don't forget about the headlift (if it is that) and overheating issues those boosting higher than 12psi are having.
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Old Apr 17, 2006 | 11:24 AM
  #102  
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Originally Posted by zman1910
He clearly stated that he doesn't have the need for more power than what he had. And even if he did, the built bottom end could still handle it. I had ~400 whp and put 10k miles on it and I was still very satisfied at the end. In fact I even wanted to move down a few hp. If you want to build a super monster... a built long block will still not be enough and will require other, expensive, supporting mods as well. It honestly doesn't seem like that is his goal. Keep your goals separate from his...
Just like Gman said...I'm trying to put all the options out there. He doesn't know what he wants yet. He clearly stated that.
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Old Apr 17, 2006 | 11:25 AM
  #103  
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Originally Posted by G352NV
You can do it both ways. I was really shocked at how easy it was to pull out from the top.

Fantastic I'll be swapping in my own built motor next winter.
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Old Apr 17, 2006 | 12:23 PM
  #104  
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Originally Posted by BriGuyMax
Fantastic I'll be swapping in my own built motor next winter.
Ok, how about I bring multiple cases of whatever you drink and you swap mine as well. What setup will you be going with?
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Old Apr 17, 2006 | 01:51 PM
  #105  
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Originally Posted by BriGuyMax
Just like Gman said...I'm trying to put all the options out there. He doesn't know what he wants yet. He clearly stated that.
I completely understand fellas...it just seemed to me that he doesn't drag race or care for an absurd amount of power. Just more of a nice daily driver with a decent amount of reliable power. Anyhow I respect both of your ideas....
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Old Apr 17, 2006 | 08:25 PM
  #106  
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Originally Posted by BriGuyMax
Fantastic I'll be swapping in my own built motor next winter.
I just pulled my motor out last week through the bottom...I can;t truefully say this was any easier than pullin git out the front...I have pulled my motor out the front twice, that was relatively easy, but you have to disconnect the AC, wich is kinda a PITA...pulled it from the bottom, you disconnect the subframe and the motor comes out attahced to it... I think this method may show its true advantages when putting the motor back in..we'll see

sleeved motor going in, in a few weeks 750whp watch out!
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Old Apr 18, 2006 | 04:51 AM
  #107  
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Originally Posted by G352NV
You can get a stock longblock for 2k. Have you even done any work on cars? Pulling the motor in this car isnt hard at all.
Where do you recommend?
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Old Apr 18, 2006 | 05:55 AM
  #108  
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Originally Posted by BrianLG35C
Ok, how about I bring multiple cases of whatever you drink and you swap mine as well. What setup will you be going with?

I don't know if you want me drinking and swapping motors, you could end up with hoses hooked up in a very interesting fashion.

I'll be buying a fully built longblock from either SGP or BuiltZMotors depending on which gives me the best price and options for what I want.

Have you called GRD yet to tell them about your motor?
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Old Apr 18, 2006 | 06:21 AM
  #109  
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Originally Posted by BriGuyMax
I don't know if you want me drinking and swapping motors, you could end up with hoses hooked up in a very interesting fashion.

I'll be buying a fully built longblock from either SGP or BuiltZMotors depending on which gives me the best price and options for what I want.

Have you called GRD yet to tell them about your motor?
No not yet, but will soon. Will you have them do any of the work for your new longblock?
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Old Apr 18, 2006 | 06:24 AM
  #110  
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Originally Posted by BrianLG35C
No not yet, but will soon. Will you have them do any of the work for your new longblock?

They will probably do the tuning once I get the motor in.
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Old Apr 18, 2006 | 06:28 AM
  #111  
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Originally Posted by BriGuyMax
They will probably do the tuning once I get the motor in.
Would you trust them with a build?
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Old Apr 18, 2006 | 06:34 AM
  #112  
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Originally Posted by BrianLG35C
Would you trust them with a build?
delete some of your PMs...you're full....
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Old Apr 18, 2006 | 06:48 AM
  #113  
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Done, Brian.
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Old Apr 18, 2006 | 08:25 AM
  #114  
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Originally Posted by 350zDCalb
I just pulled my motor out last week through the bottom...I can;t truefully say this was any easier than pullin git out the front...I have pulled my motor out the front twice, that was relatively easy, but you have to disconnect the AC, wich is kinda a PITA...pulled it from the bottom, you disconnect the subframe and the motor comes out attahced to it... I think this method may show its true advantages when putting the motor back in..we'll see
Do it one more time, since you ran into some snags, and I am sure you will convert to the bottom exit/entry strategy for good. The fact that you dont have to remove the downpipes, wastegates, or upbolt the tranny, connectors on the tranny..etc..etc...is reason enought to do it from the bottom.

Also, when you put the engine back in, you will literally have EVERYTHING plugged in, tight, and connected....all easily done with the engine and tranny on a pallet. Even your vaccum lines will be connected!

Your engine and tranny will be completely bolted into the car within 15 mins.
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Old Apr 18, 2006 | 10:10 AM
  #115  
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ehh... thats not so bad, but i dont like taking out the crossmember or even disconnecting the steering shaft. it only takes about 30 min to pull the radiator support, front bumper, and headlights. I go out the front with absolutely EVERYTHING... oh did i mention you dont even have to unbolt the driveshaft (not that that takes long)?

Edit: I think I did pull one wastegate off for this, but i cant remember if that was required or if i did that for another reason.
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Old Apr 18, 2006 | 10:58 AM
  #116  
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Originally Posted by BrianLG35C
Would you trust them with a build?
No offense to GRD but they have only done a few builds. If it was my money I'd truck the car down to my desired shop (SGP) and have them do it. SGP would be my choice in your case since they also know the APS TT setup well enough to get it back together properly. Than again GRD is right there and has had good success and if anything happened you'd know where to go.

Basically, I just changed my answer twice in one paragraph. I feel your pain Brian. Maybe just purchase the motor from SGP and have GRD install it. We all know the horrors of that from Failsafe's story... It's hard even thinking about what to do.

Let GRD know what happened and see what they say. Maybe they can cut you a break...

Talk to Zivman about his engine building experience with GRD...
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Old Apr 18, 2006 | 12:39 PM
  #117  
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Originally Posted by zman1910
No offense to GRD but they have only done a few builds. If it was my money I'd truck the car down to my desired shop (SGP) and have them do it. SGP would be my choice in your case since they also know the APS TT setup well enough to get it back together properly. Than again GRD is right there and has had good success and if anything happened you'd know where to go.

Basically, I just changed my answer twice in one paragraph. I feel your pain Brian. Maybe just purchase the motor from SGP and have GRD install it. We all know the horrors of that from Failsafe's story... It's hard even thinking about what to do.

Let GRD know what happened and see what they say. Maybe they can cut you a break...

Talk to Zivman about his engine building experience with GRD...
Thanks zman, I appreciate your advice. I'm just not sure about GRD for the build. I've heard the same stories but I think Zippycar was happy with his build. I'm actually thinking about just shipping it down to SGP as you said or getting the block from them or BuiltZ and having GRD install it.
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Old Apr 18, 2006 | 02:06 PM
  #118  
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Ship to SGP, and have them install and tune a UTEC or FCON, then fly down to pick it up. You WON'T be disappointed. BTW, I think I may have an exhaust manifold or manifold to turbo leak . I thought it was my exhaust, but the guys at SGP looked it over completely and said my problem was most likely PRE-turbo. Awesome. Oh, and my fuel rails were hacked up, and tearing up my o-rings causing a massive fuel leak after the new injectors were installed, and also my FPR wasn't working correctly. To name a few reasons to go with SGP.....
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Old Apr 18, 2006 | 02:08 PM
  #119  
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Originally Posted by failsafe306
Ship to SGP, and have them install and tune a UTEC or FCON, then fly down to pick it up. You WON'T be disappointed. BTW, I think I may have an exhaust manifold or manifold to turbo leak . I thought it was my exhaust, but the guys at SGP looked it over completely and said my problem was most likely PRE-turbo. Awesome. Oh, and my fuel rails were hacked up, and tearing up my o-rings causing a massive fuel leak after the new injectors were installed, and also my FPR wasn't working correctly. To name a few reasons to go with SGP.....



Chris,

It seems as if you have gone through as much chit as I have with performance shops.
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Old Apr 18, 2006 | 02:12 PM
  #120  
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Gman, I figure that if I can get all of my BS out of the way in the first year of FI, then maybe I can enjoy it problem-free for at least 3-5 years.
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