I sent an email asking DART about doing something for the VQ guys but havent heard back yet.

 

Can you PM the payment instructions when you get a chance. Thanks

 

the first batch sold out super quick, i mean like with in a day or so. yours went out in the second batch. should be getting it anytime. thanks.

 

That would be amazing if DART could make a cast iron block. I think that would open up a whole new level for our engines. Plus I think that the days of Supra's ruling as many think would be over.

 

ok, a little update. went and hit the dyno yesterday and try to see at what point the car would start to leak or push water out at. unfortuneately, we could not find it. the first pull netted only 480rwhp, but with the a/c on and the clutch was slipping so badly, we projected atleast a 60-70hp loss looking at the curve before it started to slip. my point being, at roughly 550rwhp, my car did not purge out ANY water.

the clutch masters stage 4 i run with a 3200lb pressure plate should hold 650rwhp, looks like that was not the case. not sure what happened as the clutch is not very old and i almost never ride it and engage it as fast as i can. will need to replace before i can test more.

 

Was the test done on a Dynojet dyno ?

I believe mine broke the head gasket seal when we did the Power curve runs on the Mustang dyno [ much more load ]

Sure hope your studs and the L19's take care of it . Cant afford to put out $1500 to $2000 for labor every time it happens

 

it was a dynojet.

 

have a bunch of kits in stock now. still running great and no probs.

 

Do you still have any of these?

 

3.5 years later?

 

Wouldn't you think that would be enough time to verify its effectiveness?
Lets hope so. Come 'on zealous...let me know.

 

worthless

 

Have there been any motor failures while utilizing this mod?

 

Wonder why anyone else hasn't used this trick? Especially if it works for FI?

 

that stud doesnt thread into the block. there's no way thats going to add strength any more than the plug thats there.

Imagine a box with ahole in the top. the OP is sayin you can make the box stronger buy putting a rod thru that hole instead of a plug the same thickness as the wall of the box.

 

I just finished pm'ing him offline and he confirmed that after 3.5 years of boosting, his Z is still going strong, albeit in the hands of a new owner. (He sold his Z for a viper.) But that's neither here nor there. This mod is offered to the Z community as a supporting mod.
It reduces the likelihood of a motor failure due to headlift.
Headlift is a motor killer and has struck every side of this country. This mod is 1 that will not eliminate but greatly reduce the likelihood of headlift. I'm interested, but unfortunately the material he used for this 'kit' came from Germany. Otherwise I'd get it myself.

 

Lets try to think of it in a different way. Consider the cylinder heads like a shoe boxes that get bolted down to the engine block. If the shoe box is hollow it has no internal structural support and will have weak spots that if enough pressure it applied from the block it will give. (there is your blown head-gasket and subsequent leak)
What this mod suggests is that by replacing the plugs and replacing them with studs that go to the floor of the head it will increase rigidity of the head.

So it would be like adding columns to the inside of the shoe box. The block would then have a harder time trying to make that shoe box flex because it is altogether more solid.

I hope that makes sense.

 

that only makes sense if the pressure is on the outside pushing in. since the pressure is coming from inside and since that stud doesnt bolt into anything, still not sure how it would add strength.

either way, the stud size is listed in this thread, so you can just get some threaded rod and cut to length for cheap.

 

headlift?...i guess this made sence back in the earlier days when the thread was created... even then though... L17s shoudl have been enough, but a couple of bad builds by bad shops (gman 1st build for example) put a lot of skepticism on them...
In either case L19s were/are way more than sufficient and is proven on pretty much all 1000+whp vqs...somehow capitalizing on the fearmongering some continued on this pushing even oversized 1/2 that costed more + the additional machining costs... unnecessary.

 

Since the heads and block are both aluminum they each obviously have a tendency to flex when under extreme pressures. Perhaps my shoebox analogy wasn't the best. Well when boosting the weakest part that has been proven to give first has traditionally been the cylinder head which gets pushed up in certain areas because of thehollow structures inside the head. Anyway, if you slice the cylinder head in half, would look kind of like it had 2 layers. Unfortunately the lowest layer which contacts the block is getting all kinds of pressures as each cylinder pushes up against it. All that this mod is doing is adjoining 2 layers of this cylinder head cake to make it slightly more rigid. It links the central layer with the bottom layer. Then the pressure from each cylinder would have to be even more intense to blow it off and find a leak.


The even greater thing about this mod, is that it only requires the removal of the valve cover. It doesn't go underneath the cams which was my original thought. So this makes this mod even easier.