the ss sealing ring the factory uses just locks the plug in. there really is not much torque on the plug itself. an impact would help, just hit the trigger lightly. again, the best way is to use the perfect size allen socket, then put a good amount of force to undo it over a 5 second period, then a quick tug.

ZUL8R- sorry to hear your having probs man. if you drill really slow you may be able to control the metal shavings from the drill, but they won't make it to the combustion chamber, but some may fall into the water passage. not a huge deal. if you get a little magnetic probe, you would prolly be able to retrieve them all. if worse comes to worse, you could weld an old extension or something on them.

 

any updates? chris, you get the stud out?
matt, you able to get your plugs out?

 

I am dropping my car off at the shop tomorrow. I don't have the needed tools nor do I have the skills to do this job.

 

Crazy idea but who knows: how about using that chemical metal bonding stuff to "glue-weld" a socket or a bolt on the stud?

Danny

 

scott is on the right path by tacking a nut onto the old stud. I had to do that along time ago.

Ryan

 

I never got that stud out, it's just like halfway in there. I had it all back together before I even posted there was a problem. I reallly don't care anymore, because the more time and effort I put in this car, the less I get out of it, it seems.

 

man Chris I am sorry you're having so many little problems.


This is why I am paying someone to do this job. If they strip a bolt or *** something up they will have to fix it free of charge.

 

I was just impatient and thought that bur in the threads wouldn't be a big deal, but it was. I should have taken the time to fix it. Oh well, my loss.

Scott, you may want to double check the other orders that go out to make sure the threads aren't jacked up from the vise.

 

Would it pay to chase the threads with a tap before the new studs are installed...?

 

well i had a rag with soft jaws on my vise, so maybe it was hit before and i just didn't see it. i built 25 kits in a day, so they were all looking alike. the bur must have been small for me not to see it though. if anyone sees that, a small file should fix it easily, but i will look closer now.

man chris, i hope you atleast put the rtv on the threads to seal it up sucks to get that far into it and not get them all completely installed.

 

hahahaha victory is mine!!! I hate these little ****ers. Hopefully everything else goes smoothly

 

I dropped my car off this morning. I should have it back by the end of today if not tomorrow.

 

congrats!!

 

Way to go Matt! Glad it finally came loose.

OT - Jeremy and I have dyno time Friday morning at NLP. Wanna Go?

 

OverZealous,
Hey Bro. My car is Finally done and am picking it up later today so I can break in the engine and get it tuned this Saturday. Going to drive 200 miles today, 200 miles thursday, 300-400 miles Friday, 100-200 miles Sat a.m. before tune. I heard the exhaust yesterday and it sounds bad ***. Sounds like a V8 at idle. Can you check to see when my stud kit will be shipping cuz I'd like to get it on the car before the dyno if possible. Thanks Bro.

 

Hi OZ,

Got mine. Thanks. Looking good !

Danny

 

if you dont mind, whats the charge for installing those?

 

3 hrs x $75 = $225
+
$110 for the bolts

$335 for me to be able to use my 16psi setting.

Priceless

 

Gman be sure to post how everything is going once you get the car back

 

oh thats not bad at all, i thought it would be much more, so they just take off the valve covers, thats all?