Thought I was done, ugh, machine shop mistake
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I think this time they CHECKED deck height / evenness and such - I honestly don't know what they did this OR last time but Carl has built a ton of engines and would have told me should that be necessary (sorry to sound like such a clueless n00b but engine internals is an area I'm still quite ignorant of besides theory).
Typical redecking removes 2-3thousandths of material from the mating surface of the block (and usually the heads as well)...if this process was laready performed..and now going to be done again...at 3 thousandths, you should be fine...if they need to take off greater than a total of 7thousandths or more, you start to run into complications, as this WILL increase the compression ratio slighlty, but even moreso, it will approximate the heads/valves to the piston and possibly require a cam adjustment (which may require scrapping the entire setup- as I am not aware of the ability to adjust these)
Good luck
-TODD
Good luck
-TODD
Originally Posted by atlsupdawg#2
Sorry to jump off topic but is the cylinder bore wall thickness the same from top to bottom or is the top flanged?
the same...when honing the cylinders, a bore gauge is used to ensure that the inside diameter is unifrom throughout
I think .003 would take it out, but I wouldn't worry if he had to take out .005
for a total of .010 with the head milled as well..I think that is well in range and way before you have to worry about piston to valve clearance unless you have a cam with alot of duration.
for a total of .010 with the head milled as well..I think that is well in range and way before you have to worry about piston to valve clearance unless you have a cam with alot of duration.
Originally Posted by atlsupdawg#2
Sorry to jump off topic but is the cylinder bore wall thickness the same from top to bottom or is the top flanged?
do you mean the actual block thickness through the whole bore? if so, then you it is pretty uniform, but the top 1.5" or so of the tops of the cylinders are open deck design. after that the block runs solid across (minus the bores ofcourse)
Haha, decking the block will not fix that whatsoever IMHO. Compression will increase, you have a timing chain, and will the timing cover even fit after?
The sleeves may still crack further maybe if he even "decked" it out. That cylinder wall is destroyed. They are trying to do a quick fix. What they need to do is get you a new block or sleeve it. My 2 cents. There is no way i'd leave with my motor like that.
The sleeves may still crack further maybe if he even "decked" it out. That cylinder wall is destroyed. They are trying to do a quick fix. What they need to do is get you a new block or sleeve it. My 2 cents. There is no way i'd leave with my motor like that.
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Originally Posted by Zexy
Haha, decking the block will not fix that whatsoever IMHO. Compression will increase, you have a timing chain, and will the timing cover even fit after?
The sleeves may still crack further maybe if he even "decked" it out. That cylinder wall is destroyed. They are trying to do a quick fix. What they need to do is get you a new block or sleeve it. My 2 cents. There is no way i'd leave with my motor like that.
The sleeves may still crack further maybe if he even "decked" it out. That cylinder wall is destroyed. They are trying to do a quick fix. What they need to do is get you a new block or sleeve it. My 2 cents. There is no way i'd leave with my motor like that.
(j/k - but yeah, no additional decking and no crack).
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