checked the sensors for debris but they were all clean. About the sprocets - i dont know, maybe that can be the reason.

 

Thats really scarry that one bank of my engine might be running very lean, with boost. This sprocket thing, can this definately be a probable cause for the problem because i know it will cost alot of $$ in labor to pull the front timing assembly apart and switch them around ?

 

you can go to nissan and they can read your 02 sensors to see if they are getting matching readings, or you can do it yourself by tapping into the signal wire, the white one iirc, on each front 02 sensor and see what the reading is. there is a voltage breakdown chart that will tell you what a/f the voltage reading means.

 

i tapped a motec afr gauge to one of my banks and an aem wb on the other one, they were matching.

 

I have my a/f gauge mounted on the passenger side of exhaust and i am not seeing any extremely lean conditions unless i am just downshifting without any throttle which im pretty sure is normal.

 

yep that is normal, the ecu is cutting the fuel to cool down the temps inside the engine with air.

 

Yea I definately need to get this taken care of now. Just got pulled over and got a ticket for no inspection right by my house. My inspection is 3 months over due because of this F***ing problem. Cop said next time he sees me driving around without inspection the car is getting impounded.

 

Any updates on a fix for this problem ?

 

nope, i'm receiving new sensors tomorrow, i'll let u guys know if the new sensors solves our problem.

 

ok thanks !

 

I couldn't get the new sensors but called a friend and told him to bring his Z.
First I installed my cam sensors to his car, drove the car for a while and there was no problem and no CEL.

Then I installed his sensors to my car and again there was no constant CEL but lots of misfires.

Then i gave the guy his sensors and plugged my sensors to my car again. The car was working fine, no misfires, no CELs but after some driving the CEL came back So this didn't help much but it made a little progress.

A question for the people that are having this trouble:

Do you have lightened flywheel, pulley or underdrive pulley ?

 

dang, wish i had more ideas for you guys. hard to diagnose the problem though not hearing or testing in person.
now, i have had one e-blue go bad and one e-u go bad just on my car. the eblue went after about 30 minutes from initial start up, and the eu was bad out of the box. this left me having a similar problem to you guys as i kept getting bad piggybacks. yet testing everything else out before coming to the conclusion i was getting faulty ecm's. so definately do not rule out this fact.

 

Mistaboosta, yes i do have a lightened fly wheel. I have the ats clutch and flywheel, ame one offered by shariff. Yesterday I too messed with the car a lil bit. I pulled the passenger sensor and wipped it down ( there wasnt really any build up on it ). Took it for a ride with my scanner pluged in. I didnt get a pending code for prob about 6 or 7 miles, then the dam code came up and wouldnt go away after that, just kept coming on after reseting wether i reved the car up or just let it idle.
overZealous1 : I am getting this code even at idle when my utec is not doing anything or altering any sort of data. I guess we should try unplugiing the utec and running off stock ecu only but im kinda afrad i might accidentally go into boost while trouble shooting on the street. I also talked with someone at sgp where my whole motor was built and they said they havent had any of their customers have this problem which a majority are using the exact motor, cam, clutch and flywheel setup as me. Maybe he was giving me BS though i dunno.

 

ya, i would try that. put your stock injectors back in and run off the stock ecu and see if you get any probs. just don't get into it very hard or go into boost at all. that will still allow you to rev to redline and test alot of the rpm range.
if it still is doing weird stuff, you just need to keep working backwards like that till it runs good again.

 

you can use your current setup with the stock ECU w/o changing anything. The double O2 sensors give a lot of feedback to the stock ECU to let it make a lot of corrections. My car was running fine w/ RC750s and the stock ECU.

BTW I've already unplugged UTEC to see if it helped but it didn't. The car stopped dying but the code was still there and the idle was not smooth.

I'm suspecting that maybe there is a problem with the sprocets or one of the cam chain's timing.

 

I have checked my sprockets and timing chain and no problems there..
So il continue to search for errors..
Will remove my rc650 injektors and the one step colder sparkplugs and test without eMan blue..

 

mistaboosta : from looking at your profile, you do not have a lightened flywheel - new clutch assembly or aftermarket cams at the moment do you ?

 

Sorry for the double post did you at any time have the stock ecu wires tapped into or cut, because i used to have a blue emanage ? Although I did a dam good job putting all those wires back together soldered and heat wrapped, i even triple checked them.

 

Ok, new update !!! I have a scan tool and have been sitting in the car messing around with a few ideas. Normally once the car is heated up and idleing the code will pop on immediately after it is cleared. Now the good part i sat there and kept my foot slightly on the gas to keep idle above 1000 rpm, while doing this I COULD NOT get the code to come up on my scanner, and then when i let off the gas let it idle for a sec and the code would come up, but if I shut the car down while above 1000 rpm the code will not come up. I dont know if the car is seeing the accelerator being pressed and wont let the code come on but I am gonna see if utec will allow me to bump up idle ( which is currently at 650 rpm ) or try to rip the pedal to always rev at least 1000 rpm till i can get this car to pass inspection. If anyone else trys this with good results let me know.

 

overZealous1 is correct... you cannot rule out the OEM ECU either... there is a possibility that this might be faulty somehow and affect the cam timings..

I had a long talk about these cam timing problem with my tuner and all his tuned Zs with MoTeC throw these intake cam timing errors, but never get CEL at all on all the z, including mine. He told me it is because we are using MoTeC to control the cam timings and the codes are thrown if the stock ECU detects that the cam timing is out of the stock range (which will be since we are using motec to control that now)... So that actually makes me think... if it is not the cam sensor's faulty and if it is not the slow communication between the piggyback and the OEM computer, will that be just the OEM computer itself that has the cam timing out of its range somehow??? Just another possibility for you guys to think about...

I have fixed my idle problem with more tuning and I haven't experienced any stalling issue at all for over 2 months now.... the rpm still dips down when I come to a dead stop to 600rpm or so, but it always comes back up to 825rpm and idles smoothly there... and FYI, I have nismo flywheel, larger injectors, a totally rebuilt engine with only the crankshaft and some bolts are the stock items...

cheers,

richie