idle problem
06-04-2006, 04:32 PM
#22
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Just say this thread for the first time. I too keep throwing a p0011 code cam timing advance bank 1. Has anyone figured this out yet ? This is stopping me from getting my car inspected. If it helps I am running a greddy tt with u tec and fully built long block with jwt cams.
06-05-2006, 08:32 AM
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Originally Posted by mistaboosta
did this problem start after your engine rebuild?
06-05-2006, 06:40 PM
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Originally Posted by mistaboosta
nope i dont know the part number 
i was used to call my wrx a moneypit but this car is becoming the money Grand Canyon
i was used to call my wrx a moneypit but this car is becoming the money Grand Canyon
06-10-2006, 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by mistaboosta
the p0300 multi cylinder misfire is a by-product of p0001.
still workin on it but nothing yet. The worst thing is, you can't raise the idle no way!
still workin on it but nothing yet. The worst thing is, you can't raise the idle no way!
06-11-2006, 02:27 AM
#36
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i dont have a light flywheel, i suppose the p0300 is happening because of the p0011.
Up to now we know that:
-This happens to cars with built engines.
-Kills the car @ idle.
-Car throws a p0011 and p0300 code
-Car jerks while driving @ %5-10 throttle.
Up to now we know that:
-This happens to cars with built engines.
-Kills the car @ idle.
-Car throws a p0011 and p0300 code
-Car jerks while driving @ %5-10 throttle.
06-12-2006, 09:15 PM
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I found this in another thread.
OverZaelous1:
"well to further get into this, i have now called nissan trying to get part numbers for the left and right bank intake cam gears. guess what, nissan only has one part # and the parts guy says they can be used on either side!! confusing huh? it is SUPER important to mark ALL your cam gear placements, valve bucket placement, and cam saddle palcement upon disassembly. i had to build a VQ35 last week where the guy who tore the motor apart did not mark anything!! it was a reputable shop also that definately should have known better!! i had to look super close at the wear marks on the back side of the cam gears and match the seating marks to the correct sides.
so yes the intake cam gears look and are indexed identically, and nissan can't even help ya with part numbers to get them back on right.
yancy, one of the easiest ways to tell if this happened is to read your 02 sensor readings. bank 1 (pass. side) should be running very lean, with bank 2 running very rich. also, my part throttle was junk and would always toss the po300 code. when i got past 3000rpm, the thing went like a raped ape though and felt great.
hope ya get it figured out."
qoute end!
Seems like i good idea to test that anyway.
/Phill
OverZaelous1:
"well to further get into this, i have now called nissan trying to get part numbers for the left and right bank intake cam gears. guess what, nissan only has one part # and the parts guy says they can be used on either side!! confusing huh? it is SUPER important to mark ALL your cam gear placements, valve bucket placement, and cam saddle palcement upon disassembly. i had to build a VQ35 last week where the guy who tore the motor apart did not mark anything!! it was a reputable shop also that definately should have known better!! i had to look super close at the wear marks on the back side of the cam gears and match the seating marks to the correct sides.
so yes the intake cam gears look and are indexed identically, and nissan can't even help ya with part numbers to get them back on right.
yancy, one of the easiest ways to tell if this happened is to read your 02 sensor readings. bank 1 (pass. side) should be running very lean, with bank 2 running very rich. also, my part throttle was junk and would always toss the po300 code. when i got past 3000rpm, the thing went like a raped ape though and felt great.
hope ya get it figured out."
qoute end!
Seems like i good idea to test that anyway.
/Phill
06-12-2006, 10:45 PM
#39
one thing to check also, is pulling your cam and crank sensors and make sure they are clean. it is a slim chance, but when cams and bearings break in they can create a metal slurry in the oil. the magnetic sensors picks this slurry up and if enough attracts on the sensor, it will give a false signal. always a good idea to check them about 500 miles after any engine build.