This definately sounds like an issue with your cooling system function. Bad T-stat, a leak, or air in your system. Even in super hot weather, your temp gauge should not budge in stop and go traffic.

At 3/4 temp gauge, you are well into the 230F mark which is REALLY hot.

 

+1 on that. I'm on a completely stock cooling system and last summer with temps over 100 degrees in traffic I never had my coolant go over 205 degrees. The fans kicking on would always immediately bring it back down to 193-195ish.

 

BriGuyMax, do you have an aftermarket temp gauge for you coolant? the stock one doesn't have any hash marks

 

Sharif is right, if you are having temp problems just sitting there, there has to be something wrong with the stock cooling system.
When you turn on your heater - do you get hot air when sitting there (I know you don't want to turn it on in the summer, but this will usually tell you if there is trapped air)?

 

Also, make sure nobody mounted the ventilator the other way round, happened to me one time...

 

Yes, I have an Auterra OBD scanner for my plam pilot so I can see coolant temp to the degree.

 

This has really been informative--Pros & Cons. Sharif---I searched ur rear cyl mod. VERY awesome!!!! A must do when it comes built bottom time!!!! I have to take care of those Pesky customers in the Morn-- Just Kidding Customers!!!! I luv ya-with ur PowerStrocks and John Deeres!! ( Pays for my Habit )Then Z time !!!! < <<< My Habit. Pressure test,Themostat is goin in the trash can, System Flush, A little antifreeze-WW-and distilled---See what happens.

 

For what it's worth, when I go FI I'm gong to be using Evan's NPG+ Waterless Coolant.

 

Not true. The water pump controls coolant speed, not the stat. One they are both open, the stats should flow the same. Also, heat transfer is not hindered by too much speed. My concern with no stat is not enough water flow to the heads/block. If you want to run no stat, I would just remove the center of the stat.

If a car is running hot, something is hindering heat transfer, either water flow or air flow, sometimes both. Sounds like the original poster has air flow problems. Check for simple stuff first, like leaves between the rad and condiser, or have the rad flow tested to make sure it is ok. I use 80/20 mixture, with the 20% coolant to lube the pump.

 

When you refill your coolent make sure that you give plenty of time to bleed the system. I have a funnel from Matco Tools that sits on top of rad filler and allows the car to burp the air back up. I normally run the car for about 30 minutes with the funnel on to make sure the air is out. I think Lesile (sp?) makes the same funnel you can pick up at PepBoys. Good luck

Ryan

 

I don't think this is quite right on the oil cooler. It is a radiating surface. It is more effective with air flowing thru it, but to state it has no effect while stopped or in slow traffic is wrong. Less effective, sure, no effect, wrong.

 

I agree --But I let it slide---Dissapation of heat is dissapation heat and of the overall problem. Even standing still heat is being more readily obsorbed by the atmosphere. Every little bit counts.

 

BTW ---This was not mentioned but I see there IS a bleeder built into the system