Why does it cost so much to go FI??
Thread Starter
Registered User
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 473
Likes: 0
From: Malibu, California
I might get flamed, I've searched but I can't find a simple answer to this question.
I was just looking at the Greddy Twin Turbo kit, which I've seen going for $5.6k or so. People on the forums talk about how they spend upwards of 15k-25k on their cars to go FI, and I don't think that included an engine build.
So, my question is, why does it cost so much more over the kit price? I know install is a grand or so, but still. And tuning probably costs a bit. But what else goes into those massive amounts of money spent on FI?
And I'm talking about only going to 360whp or so (which is said to be what the Greddy TT kit will do at stock boost).
I was just looking at the Greddy Twin Turbo kit, which I've seen going for $5.6k or so. People on the forums talk about how they spend upwards of 15k-25k on their cars to go FI, and I don't think that included an engine build.
So, my question is, why does it cost so much more over the kit price? I know install is a grand or so, but still. And tuning probably costs a bit. But what else goes into those massive amounts of money spent on FI?
And I'm talking about only going to 360whp or so (which is said to be what the Greddy TT kit will do at stock boost).
cause people want to add some safety to their FI setup and traction to be able to use all that power, and you sometimes end up having to upgrade a multitude of other parts like the clutch so that the clutch can handle 350+whp etc - cooling etc
Sentry is right. There is always more to add and more to the cost than the basic kit price. BTW, an install is way more than a grand.
Everything on our cars cost a lot of $$. Think if you had a porsche, mercedes or bmw even and wanted to go FI. It's seems to be a lot cheaper to do a Honda.
Everything on our cars cost a lot of $$. Think if you had a porsche, mercedes or bmw even and wanted to go FI. It's seems to be a lot cheaper to do a Honda.
also dont forget all the r@d for this engine.i mean hondas have been around for many moons,no wonder it,s cheap to fi a honda.there is still a lot of research going into the 3.5vq engine so that it wont go boom.evo,s and sti,s have a computer that is receptive to minor mods giving good power increases.the 3.5 vq,s computer dosent.so it takes more to get more.
on the plus side, the Z has a lot of parts that are up to the task for handling FI like ignition, driveshaft, and the transmission. A lot of other cars need those things to be replaced before even considering FI. And the Z has room for big tires in the rear that a lot of cars don't without looking goofy or getting a widebody kit
first off I it is going to be expensive in the fact that it takes two turbos instead of one due to the v-configuration or quite a bit of r&d to get a decent single turbo setup.
On top of that it takes a good tuner and a good management system in order to deal with the pain of an ECU that we have.
On top of that it takes a good tuner and a good management system in order to deal with the pain of an ECU that we have.
Trending Topics
Over and above the cost of the F/I kit, expect to spend/buy the following:
-Plugs ~$50-60+
-AFR gauge ~$200-350
-Boost gauge ~$50-120
-Tune ~$400-700 depending on tuning EMS
-F/I install ~$1000-2000+
-Oil pan or spacer for added oil capacity ~$100-500
-Gauge pod ~$20-60
Here are some other items you would really want to use to further benefit from going F/I:
-Exhaust ~$300-1500+
-Test Pipes/HFCs ~$100-500
-Plenum/manifold ~$300-1100
-Synthetic oil ~$20-50
There are more, but this gives you the idea!
-Plugs ~$50-60+
-AFR gauge ~$200-350
-Boost gauge ~$50-120
-Tune ~$400-700 depending on tuning EMS
-F/I install ~$1000-2000+
-Oil pan or spacer for added oil capacity ~$100-500
-Gauge pod ~$20-60
Here are some other items you would really want to use to further benefit from going F/I:
-Exhaust ~$300-1500+
-Test Pipes/HFCs ~$100-500
-Plenum/manifold ~$300-1100
-Synthetic oil ~$20-50
There are more, but this gives you the idea!
Thread Starter
Registered User
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 473
Likes: 0
From: Malibu, California
How about doing a Turbonetics Single Turbo? What is necessary on top of that? I hear the install is 1k, so thats about 5.5kish. Tuning. Clutch, flywheel, tires to handle the power. What else? I'm just wondering what is the cheapest way to go turbo but still be safe (I'm not looking for crazy hp numbers).
Things such as the clutch and tires are dependant on your driving style. If you are going to beat the crap out of it then you will need that stuff eventually. However I would say that more than likely you will not need things such as tires at lower power levels. Again it depends on your driving style.
The cheapest way that will more than likely happen at one point is the Squire remote mount turbo setup. I would personally stray away from this. Search for remote mount turbo id you are really interested as to why.
I would say go with a turbonetics ST and have a good tuner and call it a day.
The cheapest way that will more than likely happen at one point is the Squire remote mount turbo setup. I would personally stray away from this. Search for remote mount turbo id you are really interested as to why.
I would say go with a turbonetics ST and have a good tuner and call it a day.
a turbonetics kit is 5100, guages boost, egt 550, then to install that you will need around 1500 including the guages installed. You will have to have your a/c recharged which is 130-150. Your factory a/c is going to get the high and more than likely the low side burned, no matter what someone tells you, it will the exhaust side of turbo is poorely designed in that it is way to close to both lines and burned through both of mine, and yes we did everything that the instructions say to do, and we could not get the lines away from the exhaust piping. that ended up costing me 950 to get custom ran high and low lines. they had to uninstall the top part of the turbo and alot of labor involved in designing it, i could have done it myself but did not have the time. that is the least you will need, but then i would say get a utec or some kind of engine management, which will be around 500 low end and 2000 high end. then to get it tuned probably close to 700 with just one map, that is about the least amount of stuff you will have to do. I am not sure if i had to do it over again i would go with the tn kit, but it does get good power, i might spend a few extra dollars and get a complete kit with ecu that will not burn my ac lines, becuase that a/c line problem only cost $950 money wise but more more than that in my time having to deal with it running it to different places and letting them do it very disheartening actually that it was designed so poorly in that aspect. I think TN should reroute the a/c line and make it part of the kit, even though it will raise the price another 200 who cares i wouldn't mind paying another 200 when already paying 5100.
If you are looking for a simple install and good power go with the TN kit. you can probably get one for around sub 5000, 1000 for the install, 500 for the guages and you got 380whp depending on temperature. condition of engine, etc. you still have the option of upgrading your fuel system and engine management in the future if you want more power. just if you do it, realize that nothing is guaranteed and after getting the car dynoed and having all the supplemental guages, sometimes engines blow. this is not a knock on any turbo kit, because all of them have had blown engines. this is just a public service announcement. a lot of people on this site have this car for a daily driver thats cool. me? i bought a used 98 neon for around 1500 bucks and when or if my g-wagon goes down, i don't stress as much. i factored that into my bottom line also. sometimes cars go into shops and six days might turn in to six weeks, so having a backup car if your getting into force induction is a must, in my opinion only. there are plenty of guys on this site that can point you in the right direction when choosing a kit. just be honest with yourself on what you really want out of your car.
i thought that way but i wasn't willing to wait another 6 months to save up another 3000 buckaroonies on top of the 10 that i spend on the aps st and all the other stuff. for his needs, it seems like the TN kit would fit the bill nicely. not everyone needs the tt kit. i do, but not everyone else.
Originally Posted by Bullitproof
not everyone needs the tt kit. i do, but not everyone else.
Is there anyone here is happy or should I say, are glad they went ST instead of TT. I mean, I know the ST is fine but if I had it to do over again..........




