ok i know i asked this question befor but im still want to know more, i really dont think it will cost that much money to put the cometic head gasket, but wouldnt it be smart, lower the compression stay on like 9 pounds and not really have to worry about your rods going through your block. I want to know why people just dont do this to be safe.

 

you're right.. It would be a very good idea to put in cometic HG and L19 studs, yes they wont be that expensive.. But the mad install time will run you quite a few bucks!

 

Not worth it on stock internals...

 

get yourself a different headgasket... the one from Nissan sucks, mine blew on me with the TN kit installed

btw I'm goin' with HKS headgasket

 

I would go with the HKS headgasket and L19 studs of you are going to pull the heads off.

 

Your one of the few people that has blown a head gasket with the stock gasket that the motor hasnt been apart . Nissan seem to get the head sealed up pretty good.

 

I'm special lol

 

if I have 96mm pistons and I want cosmetic gasket, will I get the 96mm gasket or a 98mm due to the overbored piston?

 

Cometic sux, If I wouldve known what Ive know now I would have gotten an hks headgasket. Evos, IS's, supras, ME all have trouble with failing cometic headgaskets. If I hadnt gotten warranty for mine, I wouldve just got the hks. Dont take your chances, and if you do do it just get the hks.

 

Pull 2 more degrees of timming when you reach peak boost and live with 10 less rwhp. Your motor's chance of survival would quadruple.

Just FYI for some of the folks that think the head lift issue is because 75 ft-lb is insufficient and they must have 90+ ft-lbs on the head bolts. There have been stock block, from valve cover to the oil pan, K20's and K24 running 600+ rwhp and 30+ psi. Their open deck blocks are not that much different from ours. Higher boost and power does not necessarily lead to head lift. It is the heat and pressure from too much timming. To prevent headlift you want to reduct the maximum cylinder pressure created and you do that by not tunning to the ragged edge. Sure, if you want an all out race motor and get that last 10-20 rwhp, get the biggest studs and bolt, but if your on a daily driver and want your motor to last... id reccomend you tune it appropriatley.

 

+100, man the problem with the z is the rods the pistons can hold a lil more but we I mean who ever have after market pistons and rods find it not worth to pay labor twice add to that lower comp. means more boosting..... so back to the subject change the internals more worth of thinking of other things to do, and for a perfect job i would say... "pistons, rods, HG, and L19, ARP mai stuff. Now thats what i call a good job not excellent but a good safe 1.