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It's *finally* Begun.. Engine Build!

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Old Sep 25, 2006 | 11:10 AM
  #61  
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IIRC the L19s are bolt in, no tapping required, just made of a denser, stronger material.
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Old Sep 25, 2006 | 11:56 AM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by Chebosto
i dont know whats more disturbing.. u reaming about me, or me actually wanting to spend more money for a rear engine conversion.
don't flatter yourself, the dream was strictly platonic
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Old Sep 25, 2006 | 12:46 PM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by Wired 24/7
don't flatter yourself, the dream was strictly platonic
heheh. braxors?! when...

Originally Posted by chimmike
IIRC the L19s are bolt in, no tapping required, just made of a denser, stronger material.
denser, stronger yes. but they have limitations.. .. i thought about the L19s seriously... i even called up ARP to get their opinion. Their own engineer that i spoke to (i forget his name, he was an 'older gentleman' based on his voice) told me for a street car, he did not recommend the L19s and recommended the standard bolts... He told me the L19s, due the chemical composition of the alloy and their high suspeptibility to corrosion due to moisture, may not hold the clamping force as strong 5 years down the line as when they were first installed. he said that with this product just released for the Z, he doesnt have enough data to make the claim that it will be ok... he said the stronger bolts are usually meant for super super high hp cars that get torn down and rebuilt frequently and that those useages dont have time for the material to break down.. i dont have a magic ball to forsee into the future (obviously).. but i'm not planning on tearing down the engine again for a rebuild.. so i went with their suggestion.... i was just going to go with the stock headbolts...but i guess the headstuds will be better than nothing.
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Old Sep 25, 2006 | 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Chebosto
denser, stronger yes. but they have limitations.. .. i thought about the L19s seriously... i even called up ARP to get their opinion. Their own engineer that i spoke to (i forget his name, he was an 'older gentleman' based on his voice) told me for a street car, he did not recommend the L19s and recommended the standard bolts... He told me the L19s, due the chemical composition of the alloy and their high suspeptibility to corrosion due to moisture, may not hold the clamping force as strong 5 years down the line as when they were first installed. he said that with this product just released for the Z, he doesnt have enough data to make the claim that it will be ok... he said the stronger bolts are usually meant for super super high hp cars that get torn down and rebuilt frequently and that those useages dont have time for the material to break down.
Man, I thought L19s or 1/2" was the cheaper way to go to help prevent headlift? Now what?
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Old Sep 25, 2006 | 02:17 PM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by BrianLG35C
Man, I thought L19s or 1/2" was the cheaper way to go to help prevent headlift? Now what?

i always thought the best fight against headlift is two prevent detonation!... no super-duper bolt 1/2" or whatever is gonna help a bad tune.
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Old Sep 25, 2006 | 03:28 PM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by BrianLG35C
Man, I thought L19s or 1/2" was the cheaper way to go to help prevent headlift? Now what?

hehe..dont let Cheston scare you.

But it all honestly, the main reason for headlift, is inadequate clamping force. We've seen headlift on earlier cars, with C16 and conservative timing and just 15psi of boost. With the L19's and 90ft/lbs, we never see it..even with pump gas.

Cheston is right....bad tuning is going to blow a headgasket. Cheston, I think this engineer may be speaking based on speculation. I spoke to another technician at ARP, that told us the L19 studs are used on plenty of Supras, and he didnt seem to have an issues having us use them on the VQ35 for street purposes.

Whatever you decide....more clamping force is needed. Maybe stock bolts will hold up better. But I will never use a standard ARP head studs trqed to their spec 65ft/lbs ever again.
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Old Sep 25, 2006 | 04:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Sharif@Forged
Cheston, I think this engineer may be speaking based on speculation.
The signature of a great engineer
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Old Oct 8, 2006 | 08:26 PM
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Woot. as not to let this thread die out...last friday i went to pick up some of my old parts.

Check out the cracks on my SS PE manifolds... what a load of crap. my suspicions were correct from the weird noises i had from the engine bay..











well. thank god i upgraded to the cast manifolds... and time for me to weld in flex pipes into the Greddy Evo TT exhaust...
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Old Oct 8, 2006 | 08:28 PM
  #69  
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your engine's STILL not done yet???
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Old Oct 8, 2006 | 08:45 PM
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humm, never seen a car guy have such clean fingernails
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Old Oct 8, 2006 | 09:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Chebosto
Woot. as not to let this thread die out...last friday i went to pick up some of my old parts.

Check out the cracks on my SS PE manifolds... what a load of crap. my suspicions were correct from the weird noises i had from the engine bay..



well. thank god i upgraded to the cast manifolds... and time for me to weld in flex pipes into the Greddy Evo TT exhaust...
That's right where mine cracked! Keep me posted, Ches...would love to see the finished product.

- Gurgen
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Old Oct 8, 2006 | 11:05 PM
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im not welder, but im around it a lot. if I am correct, it appears to be poor penetration in the welds, since it cracked at the seams of the welds, rather then on the edge of them. with a manifold like that, its just a matter of time anyway!!! nice move onto the cast manifolds, you will sleep better!
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Old Oct 8, 2006 | 11:15 PM
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Why are you going to add flex sections to the Greddy Evo TT? Im going to purchase this exhaust in the next week or so please let me know, first thing im going to do is change out that bottle neck with it bolts to the cats and make it go from a 60mm to a 3" to bolt up to my APS test pipes, which by the way also will work on your PE kit cheston
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Old Oct 9, 2006 | 05:08 AM
  #74  
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This just goes to show, no matter how pretty the welds are, they can still be crappy (this is for all those guys who buy the cheapest headers they can and just say "oh, the welds look great!")
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Old Oct 9, 2006 | 10:00 AM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by daytona350z
humm, never seen a car guy have such clean fingernails

ha. those were Yoshie's nails.. i'll tell her you said they were nice...

Originally Posted by Nitrouz
your engine's STILL not done yet???
yea. its done. just. they had two urgent projects they had to get out. an SE-R for SEMA (Kojima's) and another Z... i always get bumped.. oh well.

Originally Posted by XBS
Why are you going to add flex sections to the Greddy Evo TT? Im going to purchase this exhaust in the next week or so please let me know, first thing im going to do is change out that bottle neck with it bolts to the cats and make it go from a 60mm to a 3" to bolt up to my APS test pipes, which by the way also will work on your PE kit cheston
they didnt add any flex portions to the pipe! the Evo2 did. i wonder why they didnt' to the Evo TT, well flex, or the inability to flex, might have caused the destruction of my manifolds in the first place.. i had a nice flexy stock Y pipe and went to a more rigid Jic y pipe for a while.. and i think it was the JIC that caused it to crackola .. so no more taking chances. hell no i aint gonna risk breaking my cast manifolds so i'm adding flex to the EvoTT ypipe sections.. so what if i lose like a little pressure, its back-of-my-mind assurance when i'm on the track or drifting and putting load on the engine that its not gonna crack anything..

Originally Posted by phunk
im not welder, but im around it a lot. if I am correct, it appears to be poor penetration in the welds, since it cracked at the seams of the welds, rather then on the edge of them. with a manifold like that, its just a matter of time anyway!!! nice move onto the cast manifolds, you will sleep better!
I will sleep better knowing i have cast manifolds, and a flex portion! :P
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Old Oct 9, 2006 | 01:59 PM
  #76  
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Looking good Cheston! Can't wait to see the dyno numbers
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Old Oct 23, 2006 | 08:56 AM
  #77  
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Custom Water cooling lines for turbos:

it's the braided lines with the Earl's Fittings..attached to an empty water port on the block...









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Old Oct 23, 2006 | 09:16 AM
  #78  
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i wish i had your engine... looks good! keep us posted
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Old Nov 3, 2006 | 11:01 AM
  #79  
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update for november:

the engine is now in the car, and testing has started.

with the stock PE pipe with the MAF, the voltage gets pegged quickly with high boost. we put the PE pipe with the maf on the flow bench and measured the MAF voltage from 10->400 CFM, where it pegs out at 4.7+V.. the PE1420s have a max CFM rate of around 500... so the 400 definately won't cut it...

next we went to a couple of varying diameter pipes that replace the MAF housing, and we think we have a solution that won't peg the MAF voltage.. w/o using a voltage clamp... but its kinda tricky since there are only so many hose couplers you can use for varying diameter piping, less custom made ones..

the car is SUPER quiet with the Greddy Evo TT exhaust (yay!) and the clutch pedal feels stock, and noise from the Cusco twin plate carbon carbon is just a little louder than stock.. revs faster than stock for sure... i <3 integrated flywheels...

i can't wait for the dyno testing to be completed.. woot.. we'll probably offer this piping kit as an bolt-on upgrade to those with the PE tt kit if they want to boost higher than 8psi..

so far the larger pipes we're using still clear the factory and the cusco strut bars...

more updates later...

Last edited by Chebosto; Nov 3, 2006 at 01:08 PM.
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Old Nov 4, 2006 | 04:37 AM
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How are the Suby injectors working out?
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