So today i thought i had everything done with my twin turbo install and i was getting anxious to drive the car finally. That's definately did not happen.

My first problem was when i went to press the clutch down i had no tension on the clutch, i pressed it and it snapped right to the floor. I can click the clutch pedal back and forth with my hand easily. I am sure the cause of this problem has somethign to do with:
A. i removed the engine from the transmission and something is not back into place right
B. i drained the Dot 3 clutch fluid and replaced it from the bolt holding the clutch fluid in on the bottom drivers side of the transmission.

The first time i started my engine today i had a bad oil leak, i fixed that with some supplies from home depot.

The second time i started the engine i had no oil leak and let the car rune longer - after about 20 seconds i had smoke coming from the top of the engine and my friend yelled fluid was leaking from the bottom of the bellhousing. Shut the engine off and inspected.

Started the engine again and this time we tried to pinpoint where fuel was leaking from. It seemed to be coming from the top/rear of the block, most likely from where th rear 2 injectors are because i replaced those. I also watched my wideband gauge this time around and i for the full about 10-15 seconds i was running about a 10.3 afr...not good. I'm guessing that's lean or it means there is not enough fuel matching the air right? I think that i need the spacers for my 380CC injectors and/or possibly the stock injector gaskets are not compatible with the 380cc PE injectors. I'm thinking i should order new gaskets and spacers? Do you guys think this will solve my fuel problem?

Thanks,
Alex

 

1. Did you build your own engine
2. What did you use at Home depot to fix your engine
3. Probaly messed up a injector O-ring
4. 10.3 at idle is very rich, your car is probaly dumping fuel to compesate for the leak, what duty cicle are they at
5. Gaskets and a spacer arent gonna help, your in another world now
6. Cluth pedal probaly just needs to be adjusted

 

You need to isolate the problems one by one. You can take care of a lot without even starting up the engine, and I would recommend you do that.

Just so you know, if you turn the key to the on position without starting the engine, the fuel pump will turn on for a few seconds. Then you can turn the key off, and once you hear the power relay click off (About 5 seconds later) you can turn the key back on to run the pump for a few seconds again. You have to wait about 5 seconds between key-off and key-on or the pump will not cycle back on for a few seconds. (its called priming the pump if you didnt know that).

So anyhow, you should take off the intake plenum so that you can get to the rails and everything. Prime the pump while your buddy looks to see exactly where the fuel is leaking out - work from there. Until you can prime the pump without any fuel leaking out anywhere, never start the engine again.

as for the clutch - if you didnt take the clutch off the flywheel or mess with any of that stuff, the stock stuff is pretty durable and I doubt you messed anything up putting the engine back in. You might just need to bleed the clutch for a while. You should not have disconnected the clutch fluid hose, you can just take out the two mounting bolts and set the clutch slave cylinder aside. Anyway, now you have to bleed it like a brake caliper, the procedure is identical.

I would suggest that if you cant take care of the clutch problem and the fuel leaking issues, that you tow your car to a shop who can professionally resolve the issues.

can you take/post pics of where your oil was leaking and decribe how you fixed it?

 

if you left the clutch fluid/line empty for a half day or maybe longer, the seals in the slave cylinder might be gone.......you can never let them sit dry for more than a few mins.

 

my clutch did the same. just pull it off the floor and fill/bleed the system.

 

OK it looks like you attempted to fill the clutch fluid from the banjo bolt? That is not correct. You need to refill the clutch fluid from the clutch master cylinder which is in the engine bay right next to the brake master cylinder. Open the drivers side fluid cover and you should see two resevoirs. The smaller one is the clutch one. Its most likely emtpy. You should also make sure that (a) the banjo bolt and connection to the hardline aren't leaking and (b) you have the bleeder valve for the clutch closed.

Your injector leak:

I saw three people who have self installed that kit now tell you to use the injector spacers and to get new o rings. The longer you continue to not do so the longer your fuel leak will occur.

 

im using the spacers and o-rings with my pe 380cc's. Did you get the install manual i sent you? I think it shows a picture of the injector with the spacers and o-ring attached.

 

phunk - my oil leak issue was occuring because the steel braided lines running from the turbos to my oil sandwich plate were not sealing well with the adaptor between the lines and the sandwich plate. I fixed this by using a new adaper that sealed with the steel braided line, then ran large tubing to a new sandwich plate and clamped it to the new adaptor on one side and to the oil sandwich plate on another. a little hard to describe without a picture, but at this point it's not as important as my fuel problem.

 

i dont think i left them empty that long but i may have. In the case that the seals are gone what would i have to do to make new seals?

 

im going to order the spacers and o-rings that you recommended to me Mia. I am pretty sure that will solve my fuel issue. In the meantime maybe i will try that trick phunk recommended. I'm also having a guy come over today that is really knowledgeable with cars to help me.

 

Did you check the clutch fluid resevoir?