Hey guys,

First off, probably a lot of you know that Todd from BuiltZMotors sold his old TT setup and got an APS; well, I was the buyer of his GReddy TT kit that he was selling over the summer. I gave my car to Scott at SVRTechnologies to get the block built up and installation of the turbo kit. I must say that Scott did a wonderful job with all the installs, nearly flawless in all aspects.

But, I am having some issues.

First off, I have RC 750cc fuel injectors. When I got to Scott's shop, the car was idling but it was very rich. I brought a friend down with me to tweak the car a little bit to try to get it to idle a little better so that we can drive the car back to Seattle from Portland. My friend made a few tweaks to the map, and then the car died; after that, it didn't want to start at all. Everytime we tried to start it, we got the feeling that we were flooding the spark plugs since there was so much fuel being dumped in there. We messed around with it for 5hrs and still couldn't get it to start, so to make a long story short, Scott swapped back to stock injectors, bypassed the UTEC, and she fired up like a champ. Now, some say that 750cc injectors are way too big for my setup, which is the following:

Greddy TT Kit w/ TD06/60-1 upgrade
Arias ED pistons 9.0:1
Pauter Rods
UTEC Engine Management
ATS/Across Carbon Triple Disc Clutch
Return Fuel System w/ 750cc RC Injectors
Stock heads and cams

The return fuel system is Scott's twin-pump custom setup that he has in his car. So right now, my car is running on stock injectors and ECU but I would like some pointers before I swap back to the 750cc injectors on how to get the car to run with 750cc let alone idle. I called Sharif and he sent me his F/I base map for the UTEC, but unfortunately, I was dumb and didn't have it on me; maybe that's what I needed? I might be missing a detail or two, but please help a fellow Z member out, I want to start boosting (safely)! Thanks!

 

Did you try depressing the accelerator while cranking it? My car is difficult to start on cold start because of lack of cold start enrichment, though you said you thought yours was getting too much fuel - so it might be a different problem with a different solution. The colder it is out (and the colder the engine) the harder it is to start mine. I give it rapid throttle blips during cranking, probably 1/3 to 1/2 throttle blips, very quickly, until it catches and I can keep it running by blipping for another 10-15 seconds or so before it's got enough of a temp increase to run by itself. When the engine is cold (like in the morning) and the temp is above 60 deg or so, I can usually start it on the 2nd or 3rd attempt, when it's between 60 and 30, probably 4-5 tries, below that, it takes quite a few tries to get it to catch. When the engine is warmed up it starts first try just like a stock vehicle does.

Another way to test if it's a cold start issue would be to get it started with the stock injectors like you did before, idle the car up to temp, then shut it off and swap the injectors back to the 750s and switch the UTEC maps and try to start it again while the engine still has some heat in it.

 

So were you able to load the map I sent you? The map, with the parameters must be installed, or else the car will run like crapola. Call on Tues...and I can walk you guys through it.

 

With Sharif's map you should be able to start it. I have the same set-up, Greddy TT, RC 750cc, and UTEC-I pump the gas when the engine is warm and it starts right up.

 

Same here I have the RC's also, just pump the gas when it warm and it starts right up.

 

Hey Joe...
Is your ECU stock or reflashed?

The reason I ask, I have a reflash on mine that scaled the injectors for 750cc..and when I hooked up the U-Tec, (while pumping the gas pedal), she fired right up, the idle is perfect..and when under boost, the UTEC does a great job taking over to add additional fuel...
If Sharif sent you a base map to get you started, you shouldn't have a problem... are you loading the map correctly? when you make a change on the UTEC, so you notice/see/feel the change with how the car operates?

Good luck,

TODD

 

I think sharif will agree on what i will say coz after all that was his advice get rid of the U-tec and get an F-con and u will b laughing...
Regards and all the best..

 

UTEC GURU's unite. SHarif will get you set-up.

 

Make sure on the dashboard of the UTEC you switch is in the same position you loaded you map into, this is a common mistake some users make and it will do the same symptoms you described..

 

+1... good call...so????

 

Thanks for all the helpful replies. I will give it a try and post an update soon... hopefully. hahahahaha.

 

We can help out same day turn around.

 

How would a reflash help out if he doenst need it??

 

Lol

 

I guess thats why he is the sales manager .. at the end of the day if you can sell **** to a bull then you have done your job

 

All I was implying is that he should concentrate on fixing the issue he has instead of compounding the issue with more variables, and adding more modifications to an already existing problem..

 

the injectors need to be scaled, thats really his only problem. the rest of the mechanics are perfect.

 

The Utec scales most injectors perfectly..what type of injectors are they??We had a problem with only one type of deachwerks injectors ever..The RC's run fine and I have the 750cc's in my car for almost a year on the UTEC, no issues..

 

injectors are RC 750cc's

 

Is anyone even reading the opending posts?? He hasnt even loaded the map or parameters that I sent him. Once he loads it, it will just need some fine adjustment to idle right.

But the map and his MAP sensor need to be installed.