For those with Aps St!
For now i am making 351whp and 320tq at 7 psi while on the road i am making 9 psi. However, i see many people with aps st that have just had a better ems, and have made about 400whp. And as for my max torque, can someone tell me why i am making so little torque? What is the best option to get to the 400whp mark at this point? I am thinking about an Fcon ems. Can you 400whp members with aps st tell me what you guys have done? thank you!
Originally Posted by RNB419
For now i am making 351whp and 320tq at 7 psi while on the road i am making 9 psi. However, i see many people with aps st that have just had a better ems, and have made about 400whp. And as for my max torque, can someone tell me why i am making so little torque? What is the best option to get to the 400whp mark at this point? I am thinking about an Fcon ems. Can you 400whp members with aps st tell me what you guys have done? thank you!
If you haven't been tuned, that would be the first thing to do
Originally Posted by RNB419
For now i am making 351whp and 320tq at 7 psi while on the road i am making 9 psi. However, i see many people with aps st that have just had a better ems, and have made about 400whp. And as for my max torque, can someone tell me why i am making so little torque? What is the best option to get to the 400whp mark at this point? I am thinking about an Fcon ems. Can you 400whp members with aps st tell me what you guys have done? thank you!
Everyone who is making 400+ whp with an APS ST is either extremely moded (cams, better ems, aqua mist, or a combination of what is listed) or in a state where the gas has a higher octane.
Furthermore when your car was dynoed it was dyned on a dynojet that is not load based. With the POS APS turbo, you will not make full boost unless your motor is under a load. This is why your dyno psi was 7 and you are getting 9 psi on the street.
Does your car feel fast? Are you happy? If so then don’t worry about the numbers.
Last edited by sugarspunZ; Oct 20, 2006 at 02:24 PM.
i am happy only to a certain extent. I wish my car would pull more in earlier rpms. with 320tq i feel like im only getting a taste of what others with the same setup (360-370tq) are getting.
i think after putting the kit itself on, you've got two options. 1) replace the unichip if you don't have a local tuner you trust - i went with the utec, but there are at least a couple of options, 2) replace the exhaust from the the reducer back. the kit includes a reducer so you can use the stock muffler. it works, but i think the going rate is at least 15-20whp gain by eliminating the restriction (the reducer) and using 3" (?) all the way through to a new muffler. my opinion is that the APS ST exhaust is way overpriced. a decent muffler shop should be able to put something together with a fairly std muffler (just make sure its inlet and outlet are 3") for a couple of hundred bucks.
if you do both of those things, you should be able to get higher numbers. that being said - don't get hung up on the numbers. my car, exact same day on a dynojet said 325whp, and on something else (forget the dyno brand) said 376. 50whp variance - no difference on the car, only the dyno changed. my personal opinion is ditch the numbers for the moment and get a pull that has AF ratio. make sure that is nice and clean and never above 12. if you want more power do #1/2 as above, then think about it some more. after that, you may need a new actuator to get more boost and/or larger injectors and an uprated fuel system. ask whomever is tuning your car for IPW - don't want those injectors running at 90%+. the motor will not last like that.
i guess my point is 1) dont' get hung up on the numbers. unless you're comparing to someone who has run on the EXACT SAME DYNO (same shop, and preferably the same day) they're not comparable. 2) there are a couple of relatively inexpensive things that can be done to get some more power (exhaust is definately #1, although you should it retuned if you do it), but after that, you start running into limitations that require expensive fixes.
ahm
if you do both of those things, you should be able to get higher numbers. that being said - don't get hung up on the numbers. my car, exact same day on a dynojet said 325whp, and on something else (forget the dyno brand) said 376. 50whp variance - no difference on the car, only the dyno changed. my personal opinion is ditch the numbers for the moment and get a pull that has AF ratio. make sure that is nice and clean and never above 12. if you want more power do #1/2 as above, then think about it some more. after that, you may need a new actuator to get more boost and/or larger injectors and an uprated fuel system. ask whomever is tuning your car for IPW - don't want those injectors running at 90%+. the motor will not last like that.
i guess my point is 1) dont' get hung up on the numbers. unless you're comparing to someone who has run on the EXACT SAME DYNO (same shop, and preferably the same day) they're not comparable. 2) there are a couple of relatively inexpensive things that can be done to get some more power (exhaust is definately #1, although you should it retuned if you do it), but after that, you start running into limitations that require expensive fixes.
ahm
Originally Posted by amolaver
i think after putting the kit itself on, you've got two options. 1) replace the unichip if you don't have a local tuner you trust - i went with the utec, but there are at least a couple of options, 2) replace the exhaust from the the reducer back. the kit includes a reducer so you can use the stock muffler. it works, but i think the going rate is at least 15-20whp gain by eliminating the restriction (the reducer) and using 3" (?) all the way through to a new muffler. my opinion is that the APS ST exhaust is way overpriced. a decent muffler shop should be able to put something together with a fairly std muffler (just make sure its inlet and outlet are 3") for a couple of hundred bucks.
if you do both of those things, you should be able to get higher numbers. that being said - don't get hung up on the numbers. my car, exact same day on a dynojet said 325whp, and on something else (forget the dyno brand) said 376. 50whp variance - no difference on the car, only the dyno changed. my personal opinion is ditch the numbers for the moment and get a pull that has AF ratio. make sure that is nice and clean and never above 12. if you want more power do #1/2 as above, then think about it some more. after that, you may need a new actuator to get more boost and/or larger injectors and an uprated fuel system. ask whomever is tuning your car for IPW - don't want those injectors running at 90%+. the motor will not last like that.
i guess my point is 1) dont' get hung up on the numbers. unless you're comparing to someone who has run on the EXACT SAME DYNO (same shop, and preferably the same day) they're not comparable. 2) there are a couple of relatively inexpensive things that can be done to get some more power (exhaust is definately #1, although you should it retuned if you do it), but after that, you start running into limitations that require expensive fixes.
ahm
if you do both of those things, you should be able to get higher numbers. that being said - don't get hung up on the numbers. my car, exact same day on a dynojet said 325whp, and on something else (forget the dyno brand) said 376. 50whp variance - no difference on the car, only the dyno changed. my personal opinion is ditch the numbers for the moment and get a pull that has AF ratio. make sure that is nice and clean and never above 12. if you want more power do #1/2 as above, then think about it some more. after that, you may need a new actuator to get more boost and/or larger injectors and an uprated fuel system. ask whomever is tuning your car for IPW - don't want those injectors running at 90%+. the motor will not last like that.
i guess my point is 1) dont' get hung up on the numbers. unless you're comparing to someone who has run on the EXACT SAME DYNO (same shop, and preferably the same day) they're not comparable. 2) there are a couple of relatively inexpensive things that can be done to get some more power (exhaust is definately #1, although you should it retuned if you do it), but after that, you start running into limitations that require expensive fixes.
ahm
Trending Topics
doh - missed the sig.
as far as why fuel system or injectors, if you start raising the boost, the injectors will max out. as the kit is delivered, the IPW is is the 70% range. i believe the general consensus is that no part of the tune should put them over 80%. so.... more power == more fuel. can't deliver the fuel because A) injectors max out, or B) the single 255 walbro can't sustain fuel pressure using the pseudo-return system that is part of the APS kits. actually, i doubt that the walbro is the bottleneck, more likely to be the lines, but if phunk is hanging around i'd bet he could clarify. the only alternative that makes more power is leaning it out. doesn't require any more fuel, but will require many expensive metal parts and a whole lot of labor after a short while.
ahm
as far as why fuel system or injectors, if you start raising the boost, the injectors will max out. as the kit is delivered, the IPW is is the 70% range. i believe the general consensus is that no part of the tune should put them over 80%. so.... more power == more fuel. can't deliver the fuel because A) injectors max out, or B) the single 255 walbro can't sustain fuel pressure using the pseudo-return system that is part of the APS kits. actually, i doubt that the walbro is the bottleneck, more likely to be the lines, but if phunk is hanging around i'd bet he could clarify. the only alternative that makes more power is leaning it out. doesn't require any more fuel, but will require many expensive metal parts and a whole lot of labor after a short while.
ahm
Originally Posted by amolaver
doh - missed the sig.
as far as why fuel system or injectors, if you start raising the boost, the injectors will max out. as the kit is delivered, the IPW is is the 70% range. i believe the general consensus is that no part of the tune should put them over 80%. so.... more power == more fuel. can't deliver the fuel because A) injectors max out, or B) the single 255 walbro can't sustain fuel pressure using the pseudo-return system that is part of the APS kits. actually, i doubt that the walbro is the bottleneck, more likely to be the lines, but if phunk is hanging around i'd bet he could clarify. the only alternative that makes more power is leaning it out. doesn't require any more fuel, but will require many expensive metal parts and a whole lot of labor after a short while.
ahm
as far as why fuel system or injectors, if you start raising the boost, the injectors will max out. as the kit is delivered, the IPW is is the 70% range. i believe the general consensus is that no part of the tune should put them over 80%. so.... more power == more fuel. can't deliver the fuel because A) injectors max out, or B) the single 255 walbro can't sustain fuel pressure using the pseudo-return system that is part of the APS kits. actually, i doubt that the walbro is the bottleneck, more likely to be the lines, but if phunk is hanging around i'd bet he could clarify. the only alternative that makes more power is leaning it out. doesn't require any more fuel, but will require many expensive metal parts and a whole lot of labor after a short while.
ahm
edit: phunk's fuel needs are far greater than us with a stock block and an aps st kit. trust me his afr's are far from lean.
Last edited by sugarspunZ; Oct 20, 2006 at 09:21 PM.
from what i know, i have to disagree. i'd say lots of people have needed blocks because they DIDN'T get a replacement fuel system / larger injectors. i have limited experience in this, and am inferring from others misfortunes, but the need for more fuel in the chamber, IMO, can exceed the aps kit injectors / pump / assembly.
my reference to charles was only that he could probably clarify whether the walbro really runs out of steam, or whether the factory fuel lines (or the aps pump bucket mods for that matter) restrict flow. i believe the walbro pump itself is probably good for a reliable 450hp or so, but it is dependant on the lines between it and the rails being able to flow the required amount - which i don't think they can. bear in mind, i'm talking about RELIABLE power. keeping the motor running at 12:1 after a build to get a few dyno pulls and a couple of highway runs doesn't qualify. if it doesn't run perfect after 20K ragged miles, something wasn't built right. 'course, that's my opinion. and you know the saying about opinions, right
my reference to charles was only that he could probably clarify whether the walbro really runs out of steam, or whether the factory fuel lines (or the aps pump bucket mods for that matter) restrict flow. i believe the walbro pump itself is probably good for a reliable 450hp or so, but it is dependant on the lines between it and the rails being able to flow the required amount - which i don't think they can. bear in mind, i'm talking about RELIABLE power. keeping the motor running at 12:1 after a build to get a few dyno pulls and a couple of highway runs doesn't qualify. if it doesn't run perfect after 20K ragged miles, something wasn't built right. 'course, that's my opinion. and you know the saying about opinions, right
Originally Posted by amolaver
from what i know, i have to disagree. i'd say lots of people have needed blocks because they DIDN'T get a replacement fuel system / larger injectors. i have limited experience in this, and am inferring from others misfortunes, but the need for more fuel in the chamber, IMO, can exceed the aps kit injectors / pump / assembly.
my reference to charles was only that he could probably clarify whether the walbro really runs out of steam, or whether the factory fuel lines (or the aps pump bucket mods for that matter) restrict flow. i believe the walbro pump itself is probably good for a reliable 450hp or so, but it is dependant on the lines between it and the rails being able to flow the required amount - which i don't think they can. bear in mind, i'm talking about RELIABLE power. keeping the motor running at 12:1 after a build to get a few dyno pulls and a couple of highway runs doesn't qualify. if it doesn't run perfect after 20K ragged miles, something wasn't built right. 'course, that's my opinion. and you know the saying about opinions, right
my reference to charles was only that he could probably clarify whether the walbro really runs out of steam, or whether the factory fuel lines (or the aps pump bucket mods for that matter) restrict flow. i believe the walbro pump itself is probably good for a reliable 450hp or so, but it is dependant on the lines between it and the rails being able to flow the required amount - which i don't think they can. bear in mind, i'm talking about RELIABLE power. keeping the motor running at 12:1 after a build to get a few dyno pulls and a couple of highway runs doesn't qualify. if it doesn't run perfect after 20K ragged miles, something wasn't built right. 'course, that's my opinion. and you know the saying about opinions, right

whatever, who cares. i having a drink.
Originally Posted by sugarspunZ
maybe i am retarded or dont get what you are saying. BUT!!! the fuel system that comes with the APS ST kit is more than enough for 450+whp. the fuel system that comes with the ST kit is the exact system the comes with the TT kit. most of the TT guys are runnung 400+whp with ZERO problems. in fact one guy was had a built motor and was pushing 460+ with the stock APS TT kit. so i really dont understand what you are getting at.
whatever, who cares. i having a drink.
whatever, who cares. i having a drink.
I think the OP should look at getting a second opinion on his tune, and taking it to a different dyno to verify those numbers. At that point, he should start looking at boost issues along the lines of what sugerspunz and others have been dealing with.
Just my
Originally Posted by taurran
I agree. I don't know what all this talk about the fuel system has to do with the problem unless he's running TOO RICH. Then agian, that has nothing to do with the fuel system not being able to deliver enough fuel. This is definitely not the case as people running this fuel system have been making decent power, like sugarspunz stated, and people runing other other kits (like me) with 380-400whp have been making power safely thus far with only a warlboro 255 and even smaller injectors. It's definitely NOT an issue of lack of fuel delivery.
+1000000000000 It's definitely NOT an issue of lack of fuel delivery.
I think the OP should look at getting a second opinion on his tune, and taking it to a different dyno to verify those numbers. At that point, he should start looking at boost issues along the lines of what sugerspunz and others have been dealing with.
Just my
+1000000000000 It's definitely NOT an issue of lack of fuel delivery.
I think the OP should look at getting a second opinion on his tune, and taking it to a different dyno to verify those numbers. At that point, he should start looking at boost issues along the lines of what sugerspunz and others have been dealing with.
Just my

and in terms of what i am dealing with... i just think god doesnt like me anymore. i think my turbo is screwed. it may be time for a new one.
Originally Posted by RNB419
sorry if this question is newbish but how muchy horsepower would i be making with the two extra psi? And what exactly is a load?
if i am wrong someone please correct me.
Originally Posted by amolaver
doh - missed the sig.
as far as why fuel system or injectors, if you start raising the boost, the injectors will max out. as the kit is delivered, the IPW is is the 70% range. i believe the general consensus is that no part of the tune should put them over 80%. so.... more power == more fuel. can't deliver the fuel because A) injectors max out, or B) the single 255 walbro can't sustain fuel pressure using the pseudo-return system that is part of the APS kits. actually, i doubt that the walbro is the bottleneck, more likely to be the lines, but if phunk is hanging around i'd bet he could clarify. the only alternative that makes more power is leaning it out. doesn't require any more fuel, but will require many expensive metal parts and a whole lot of labor after a short while.
ahm
as far as why fuel system or injectors, if you start raising the boost, the injectors will max out. as the kit is delivered, the IPW is is the 70% range. i believe the general consensus is that no part of the tune should put them over 80%. so.... more power == more fuel. can't deliver the fuel because A) injectors max out, or B) the single 255 walbro can't sustain fuel pressure using the pseudo-return system that is part of the APS kits. actually, i doubt that the walbro is the bottleneck, more likely to be the lines, but if phunk is hanging around i'd bet he could clarify. the only alternative that makes more power is leaning it out. doesn't require any more fuel, but will require many expensive metal parts and a whole lot of labor after a short while.
ahm
The APS supplied fuel system is more than capable for ~450whp...plenty sufficient for any stock block Z
Last edited by zman1910; Oct 21, 2006 at 11:26 AM.
Originally Posted by zman1910
You, my friend, have no idea what you are talking about.
The APS supplied fuel system is more than capable for ~450whp...plenty sufficient for any stock block Z
The APS supplied fuel system is more than capable for ~450whp...plenty sufficient for any stock block Z

