Professional analysis and pictures of our 6MT internals
OK guys I took the off-topic comments and moved them. Please don't b1tch about it, I am not trying to censor anyone's opinions.
If you want to continue the discussion about race trannies / non-350Z-6MT trannies, then go for it.
https://my350z.com/forum/forced-induction/247740-discussion-of-transmissions-spinoff-of-sticky-with-6mt-pics.html
If you want to continue the discussion about race trannies / non-350Z-6MT trannies, then go for it.
https://my350z.com/forum/forced-induction/247740-discussion-of-transmissions-spinoff-of-sticky-with-6mt-pics.html
Brian, the issue I see with the trans, is the VERY sluggish shifting under heavy load...550whp+, and 7000rpm+. Can you ask your trans guy, if this issue can be fixed? This is what seperates the Supra and Viper transmissions from the 350z, IMHO. Strength and size of gears is one piece of the puzzle, but the shift forks, synchros and blocking plates are another piece I would like to understand. How can we make our trans shift better without locking out, or grinding under very heavy load. In 4th gear, I cannot shift to 5th at 7500rpm....just wont go into gear, so I am forced to shift into 5th at about 7000rpm max.
1. Clutch adjustment not allowing full release.
2. Pressure plates that increase grip based on rpm (Centerforce style).
3. Linkage components distorting at higher pressures/rpms.
4. Clutches that are heavy or OEM style with center springs.
As rpms go up, multi-disc clutches with small ODs and annular clutch release mechanisms make more sense.
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 112
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From: Australia
Anyone?
Originally Posted by DRE350
I need help/advice. I have an 03 Z Coupe and an 05 ZR. I'm selling the ZR and turning the 03 into a circuit/track car and I am contemplating swapping the gearboxes.
The 03 gearbox shifts very smoothly and the 05 box sometimes grinds going into 2nd and sometimes has trouble getting into 1st from a standstill.
My question is would you take the 03 or 05 box keeping in mind the 05 had revisions like double and triple syncros?
Am I right in assuming that the newer gearbox which has all the upgraded revisions should be stronger.
Thanks.
The 03 gearbox shifts very smoothly and the 05 box sometimes grinds going into 2nd and sometimes has trouble getting into 1st from a standstill.
My question is would you take the 03 or 05 box keeping in mind the 05 had revisions like double and triple syncros?
Am I right in assuming that the newer gearbox which has all the upgraded revisions should be stronger.
Thanks.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 7,303
Likes: 1
From: West suburbs of Chi-town
Originally Posted by Acree
Can you speak with your shop about possibly synchro options? That is something I would be definitely interested in.
-Acree
-Acree
Originally Posted by BriGuyMax
Not really sure what you mean. The only real "option" with the synchros would be to update the parts to the latest revision's specifications. Other than that you get into VERY expensive custom work.
-Acree
Originally Posted by Acree
I'm not quite sure how it all works, but I just figured there was some way to improve the general feel and behavior of the shifter.
-Acree
-Acree
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 7,303
Likes: 1
From: West suburbs of Chi-town
Originally Posted by Acree
I'm not quite sure how it all works, but I just figured there was some way to improve the general feel and behavior of the shifter.
-Acree
-Acree
If you don't like the way your transmission shifts, the first thing I'd address is fluid. That is assuming that you don't have grinding issues under normal shifting conditions.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 7,303
Likes: 1
From: West suburbs of Chi-town
Originally Posted by BrianLG35C
I'm just going to order new syncros, shift forks and have them installed with my motor build. Told by Infiniti tech, it's the best way to solve some of the issues. Around $400 for the parts from Grubbs Infiniti/TX + plus less labor with the motor out.
Originally Posted by BriGuyMax
Make sure some one who has a decent amount of experience inside a manual transmission is doing the work on your trans. A normal tech at a performance shop that's used to bolting on exhausts and suspensions shouldn't be cracking open the 6MT.
Originally Posted by BriGuyMax
Shift feel and behavior isn't really a function of the synchronizers alone. It's a function of the combined cohesiveness of the shift linkage, rods, detent ***** and springs, shift forks, fluid AND the synchronizers.
If you don't like the way your transmission shifts, the first thing I'd address is fluid. That is assuming that you don't have grinding issues under normal shifting conditions.
If you don't like the way your transmission shifts, the first thing I'd address is fluid. That is assuming that you don't have grinding issues under normal shifting conditions.
-Acree
Originally Posted by betamotorsports
Clutch issues (like the following) sometimes cause slow or difficult high rpm shifts:
1. Clutch adjustment not allowing full release.
2. Pressure plates that increase grip based on rpm (Centerforce style).
3. Linkage components distorting at higher pressures/rpms.
4. Clutches that are heavy or OEM style with center springs.
As rpms go up, multi-disc clutches with small ODs and annular clutch release mechanisms make more sense.
1. Clutch adjustment not allowing full release.
2. Pressure plates that increase grip based on rpm (Centerforce style).
3. Linkage components distorting at higher pressures/rpms.
4. Clutches that are heavy or OEM style with center springs.
As rpms go up, multi-disc clutches with small ODs and annular clutch release mechanisms make more sense.
Originally Posted by betamotorsports
Clutch issues (like the following) sometimes cause slow or difficult high rpm shifts:
1. Clutch adjustment not allowing full release.
2. Pressure plates that increase grip based on rpm (Centerforce style).
3. Linkage components distorting at higher pressures/rpms.
4. Clutches that are heavy or OEM style with center springs.
As rpms go up, multi-disc clutches with small ODs and annular clutch release mechanisms make more sense.
1. Clutch adjustment not allowing full release.
2. Pressure plates that increase grip based on rpm (Centerforce style).
3. Linkage components distorting at higher pressures/rpms.
4. Clutches that are heavy or OEM style with center springs.
As rpms go up, multi-disc clutches with small ODs and annular clutch release mechanisms make more sense.
I am using a super light Carbonetics triple disc carbon with 8 inch discs...so interia is not an issue with my setup. Still wanting to learn more about BriGuy's trans guy uncovers.
Originally Posted by Nealoc187
To clarify something regarding the sychronizers according to the FSM:
Revisions 000 through 004:
1st: double synchro
2nd: double synchro
3rd: single synchro
4th: single synchro
5th: single synchro
6th: single synchro
Revision 005 through 008:
1st: double synchro
2nd: triple synchro
3rd: double synchro
4th: double synchro
5th: single synchro
6th: single synchro
Revision 009 (if there's a higher revision than this I haven't seen data on it):
1st: triple synchro
2nd: triple synchro
3rd: triple synchro
4th: double synchro
5th: single synchro
6th: single synchro
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 7,303
Likes: 1
From: West suburbs of Chi-town
Originally Posted by Acree
I addressed this when the current transmission was put into my car. It's an 008 build and no issues with it so far. Over 9k on it too. After I drove the car for 1000 miles, I changed the fluid out for the redline stuff. It mad it alot better, but to me it's still notchy. My main concern is I need a transmission that I can beat the hell out of, and it will still hold up.
-Acree
-Acree
I don't think the trans holding up to a beating should be something you worry about after seeing the internals.
Originally Posted by BriGuyMax
When you say "notchy", what do you mean? Some people confuse notchy with a good positive engagement since most manual trans cars out there have rather undefined gates and a overall sloppy shifting action which people mistake as "smooth".
I don't think the trans holding up to a beating should be something you worry about after seeing the internals.
I don't think the trans holding up to a beating should be something you worry about after seeing the internals.
-Acree
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 7,303
Likes: 1
From: West suburbs of Chi-town
Originally Posted by Acree
I define notchy as "applying excessive force" to get it to go into gear. It could very easily take little effort, and still give great feedback as to being in gear or not.
-Acree
-Acree
The effort required to get into gear is actually due to the very short lever length of the shifter itself, and has nothing to really do with the inside of the transmission. The only way to reduce effort would be to install a taller shifter.
A good example of this is my 2006 Frontier 6MT that shares it's transmission with our 350Z. It has a long truck shifter obviously and it takes nearly no effort to get into gear..but I don't enjoy that shifter nearly as much as the Z's...
Originally Posted by Acree
I define notchy as "applying excessive force" to get it to go into gear. It could very easily take little effort, and still give great feedback as to being in gear or not.
-Acree
-Acree
