What Motor Oil for Stillen S/C ?
I've got a Stillen Stage 2 S/C kit in currently, soon to be stage 4 once I can get the parts in. I saw another thread about motor oil, and realized I don't know why it's something I never thought of changing when I went F/I. I'm still currently running Amsoil 5w-30 synthetic. Is that gonna be a problem?
I'm not looking for a discussion of different motor oil brands so much, but rather a discussion of what weights I should go with. What viscosity for cold and operating temps?
?w??
I'm not looking for a discussion of different motor oil brands so much, but rather a discussion of what weights I should go with. What viscosity for cold and operating temps?
?w??
Last edited by Triple8Sol; Feb 20, 2007 at 12:47 PM.
i run royal purple 5w-30 all year and i live in va. i love this motor oil. no you need to run full synthetic all the time with a sc. i'm pretty sure that you shouldn't differ in what weight your running right now.
Originally Posted by Triple8Sol
I've got a Stillen Stage 2 S/C kit in currently, soon to be stage 4 once I can get the parts in. I saw another thread about motor oil, and realized I don't know why it's something I never thought of changing when I went F/I. I'm still currently running Amsoil 5w-30 synthetic. Is that gonna be a problem?
I'm not looking for a discussion of different motor oil brands so much, but rather a discussion of what weights I should go with. What viscosity for cold and operating temps?
?w??
I'm not looking for a discussion of different motor oil brands so much, but rather a discussion of what weights I should go with. What viscosity for cold and operating temps?
?w??
Since you're running more heat in your engine, a oil with a higher HTHS is going to be your best bet. I don't recommend the Amsoil 5W-30 that you have because all the UOA's that have come from VQ's have shown remarkably high lead content after use, which is a sign of bearing corosion. Also, it's HTHS is only 3.09. It's a good oil, but not for a boosted Z. I would stay away from the Royal Purple 5W-30 grades. They are really thin for a 30wt oil with only 10.7 to 11 Cst @ 100 deg C. My recomendation for you:
Over the counter Oils: try M1 0W-40, German Castrol Syntec 0W-30, or QuakerState Q Advanced 5W-40. All have very good Cst @ 100 deg C and very high HTHS numbers-
Mobil 1 0W-40 @40C 80 @100C 14.3 HTHS 3.6
QuakerState Q European Formula 5W-40 @40C 90.5 @100C 14.5 HTHS 3.9
For designer label oils, maybe give Amsoil's series 3000 a shot, it's a lot thicker at temperature than the 5W-30. Or Motul 300V 5W-40:
Amsoil Series 3000 @40C 64.6 @100C 11.5 HTHS 3.5
Motul 300V Power 5W-40 @40C 80.8 @100C 13.8 HTHS 4.51
Any of these will flow well enough when cold, and protect a lot better and longer than what you've got in there now. They also all have very good UOA results to back them up.
Will
Over the counter Oils: try M1 0W-40, German Castrol Syntec 0W-30, or QuakerState Q Advanced 5W-40. All have very good Cst @ 100 deg C and very high HTHS numbers-
Mobil 1 0W-40 @40C 80 @100C 14.3 HTHS 3.6
QuakerState Q European Formula 5W-40 @40C 90.5 @100C 14.5 HTHS 3.9
For designer label oils, maybe give Amsoil's series 3000 a shot, it's a lot thicker at temperature than the 5W-30. Or Motul 300V 5W-40:
Amsoil Series 3000 @40C 64.6 @100C 11.5 HTHS 3.5
Motul 300V Power 5W-40 @40C 80.8 @100C 13.8 HTHS 4.51
Any of these will flow well enough when cold, and protect a lot better and longer than what you've got in there now. They also all have very good UOA results to back them up.
Will
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I run straight 30 wt with no problems all year long, the climate of southern california allows that. Multi viscosity oil's ability to change viscosity is created by adding a polymer to the blend. As the oil heats up the polymeres unwind thickening the oil. If you want or need to run a multi oil select one with a close ratio like 10w30 or 20w40, the closer the ratio is the less polymere. Under extreme loads the polymere will break down quicker thinning out the oil.
Here's a good read http://www.repairfaq.org/filipg/AUTO/F_oil_facts.html
Here's a good read http://www.repairfaq.org/filipg/AUTO/F_oil_facts.html
Last edited by fklentz; Mar 27, 2007 at 03:59 PM.
Originally Posted by fklentz
I run straight 30 wt with no problems all year long, the climate of southern california allows that. Multi viscosity oil's ability to change viscosity is created by adding a polymer to the blend. As the oil heats up the polymeres unwind thickening the oil. If you want or need to run a multi oil select one with a close ratio like 10w30 or 20w40, the closer the ratio is the less polymere. Under extreme loads the polymere will break down quicker thinning out the oil.
Here's a good read http://www.repairfaq.org/filipg/AUTO/F_oil_facts.html
Here's a good read http://www.repairfaq.org/filipg/AUTO/F_oil_facts.html
Will
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