Hey Guys, well long story short My built motor is toast. Bent valve No biggie, but looks like one of my rings scorn the cylinder wall and dug a groove #5 cylinder. I wondered why that cylinder was lower than the rest on my compression test(before I bent valve on #2 then that cylinder read zero) Ok so I have eagle rods thinking about going to a Darton Mid Sleeve boring out to 100mm sticking with the stock crank, and Eagle rods. Going to upgrade the turbos in the greddy kit to 20gs(thinking about a 10 to 15% increase in flow not much but more). Do you think the eagle rods can handle 650rwhp? I had just under 500rwhp on a mustang dyno on them before.

Ryan

 

Never heard of any snapping. They are good quality items.

Although, if your shooting for such high HP, why not spend the little extra on the pauter items, which are time proven to handle anything you can chuck at em.

Im not saying Eagle are in anyway a bad conrod, and they probably can take the power no probs, but if your going to all that expensive, you only want to do it once.

Im running mid 500's and I went Pauter, just to be sure.

 

I don't think you have anything to worry about if they are the Eagle "H" beam rods. If they are "I" beam rods I would replace them with H-beam rods.

JET

 

I know a couple of guys who run them in low 600whp with no problems. for me I wouldnt push them past the 600.

 

I hope you're kidding. The eagle rods will hold pretty much anything a street car can throw at them. Hell...stock motor cars are approaching the 600rwhp mark these days.

Pauters are just overkill for 99% of all builds.

 

Domestics run eagle H Beam rods up too 1000whp.

 

Definately agree +1.1million

 

Hey Ryan,

To this day we have not seen any problems with the Eagle rods. If you are worried about them holding up and do decide to upgrade I think our GTM Rods would be a great choice due to their strength a light weight. Here is a little info on them:

Designed in-house, and manufactured from 4340 billet chromoly steel. This material was chosen for this setup over titanium due to longevity, and over a regular forging due to the added strength. Each rod weights 500 grams, and is tested to withstand an equivalent of 2100ft-lb of torque on a 6cyl engine. This unique design allows for an unprecedented compression force/weight ratio, making it the most thoroughly designed and most suitable rod available for the VQ35DE.

Pics:






I hope this helps you out with your current situation, also if you need any help or have any questions as far as your new engine build we machine and sleeves all of our engines in house. PM me if you need any details.

BTW These rods are in our 850+rwhp/800+rwtq Z with ZERO issues

Take care,

-George
GT Motorsports

 

^ They would also work

I think any of the 3 listed in this thread would be fine for your requirements.

All good gear.

 

ok great guys, I have the eagle rods in my motor already, and was at just under 500 on a mustang dyno so I have faith.

Todd thanks for the pics and the PM. I have to come up with some cash beofre I can take the next step. Just moved into new house and Fiance needs to buy furniture and etc... So by the end of the month I should be able to swing it.

I think I will just stick it out with the Eagle rods, I have used them In Chevys with more power and no failures.

 

I asked the opinion of our performance machinist here locally. He is one of the most well respected authorities in racing engines here; he builds for the locals and several surrounding cities...

He says the eagle h-beam rods will be plenty for any power that we throw at them in the vq35, he actually likes the eagle the best simply because they are h-beam.

Bottom line... don't use stock rods, we know those fatigue and bend under high power..pretty much ANY aftermarket rod is going to be more than sufficient for the modest numbers most people are running on a street driven engine. If you are staying under 1200hp, you should be fine with any of the options out there...it comes down to personal preference

-TODD

 

Thanks Todd.

I had the eagles stress relieved when I had the last motor built. My builder at the time said that they are strong and should pose no Worries.

 

Some opinions and results of domestic owners with eagle rods.
http://www.turbomustangs.com/smf/ind...?topic=78836.0
http://www.turbomustangs.com/smf/ind...?topic=71856.0
http://www.turbomustangs.com/smf/ind...?topic=20311.0
http://www.turbomustangs.com/smf/index.php?topic=6604.0

There is more but these guys push thier engines to the limit, so if it works for them eagle rods should work just fine for a VQ. I still dont see why some people hate them. One guy told me once that my eagle rods would break around 450whp, he must of been hitting a crack pipe.

 

Thanks!!!

 

Eagle should be fine for most people on here-like already mentioned, but even though I say that I forked out $600 more for the Pauters lol....

 

Eagle keeps thier price down by having the rods built in places like china, but the quality control is done here. If they get bad rods they throw them out. When i build me a turbo small block chevy im going to use a full eagle rotating assembly.

 

Eagle rods have been popular for a long time and I don't think you'll have any problems with them. I remember some people saying that the only difference between these rods and other "high end" rods is with the balancing tolerances in a set.

 

I have Eagle rods for sale, and Arias pistons, Cometic head gaskets, and ARP head studs but just the standard version not the L19 Mid-A guys can pick up or see my threads in the regional section FS:

 

did you over rev or something? dunno how you can bend eagle rods under normal circumstances..

 

+1

1. Why did the valve bend?
2. Why was the cylinder scored?
3. Was there any issue with the Eagle rods?

Thanks for sharing.