I've been on these boards for a while and might possibly be going FI in the near future. I've searched and whatnot so don't flame. My situation is this, I want to FI my daily driver which is nearing 65k miles. I'm looking for safety. Possibly to run around 8 psi. Or should I go lower? I'm not looking for crazy power. Possibly only around 350-370 to wheels without a motor build I definitely know this is possible. My question is this, what will I have to get on top of an s/c kit or turbo kit to run it reliably? Bigger injectors, tune, wideband are the only things I definitely know I'll need/want. Is it a must that I get something like a utec or e-manage? How bout an upgraded radiator. Sorry for the long post but any info is appreciated. I'm just trying to gather any info I might need.

 

Oh and how much HP is the stock clutch good for? And if I run a kit on stock exhaust is that a no no?

 

If your motor is healthy you should not have any problems.Do a compression and leak down test before buying anything to make sure your motor is in good shape. I think MRC tt there motor at 60k with no problems. What you will need will depend on which kit you choose. The one thing you won't getaway with is not replacing the clutch at 65k when going FI. I'm surprised to see you ask these question since you've been here for a while.

 

We put an APS TT kit on Jasons car at 60k miles, and those were 60k N /A ABUSED miles for the record The car proceeded to run at 9psi for over 30k more miles until he had a run in with a telephone pole that jumped out in the road on him one late night on the way back from DJ's in Belmar At the point the car was totaled, there was only minor compression loss and some oil consumption.
This certainly is not to say this is the "norm" by any means. 65k is alot of miles to do a F/I kit especially if the car is a daily driver and you need it for transportation..

 

Yeah I know 65k is a lot of miles. But the thing is I'm getting rather bored with the N/A power. I know I gotta make money to play. But unfortunately I dont have much if any. If I were to go FI I think I am leaning more towards a vortech s/c kit and upgrade injectors and fuel pump as well as the radiator. I will probably also get the greddy emanage blue. I know its not as good as the utec but the power gains I'm looking for are very minimal. Probably around 360 to the wheels. What do you think Julian? As far as safety and reliablity goes that as.

And for the record, I know FI is never guaranteed as far as safety and reliability goes. But I know a good tune is half the battle.

 

you don't ahve to break a sweat at sub 400. 60k+ is a lot of miles, but no worries. vortech+tune will get you up and running for dirt cheap! (relatively speaking). FI is pretty brutal, and 350whp is a fun level, where you still have traction! do it!

 

Do some searching. This question has been asked a million times.

 

You know tech I honestly searched. Even lost some sleep last night over it doing so. lol. But I guess what I'm looking for is either some sucess stories or some pros and cons about doing it at my current status.

 

what extra parts you need depends on what kit you want

350-370whp isn't tons of power so a lot of things aren't really required. IMO If I were to keep things simple, I'd go with either an APS single turbo or vortech. They seem to be the most complete setups out of the box of all the turbos or supercharger to get you to that power level while still not being all that expensive (relatively)

 

Stillens Stage 3 supercharger sounds like it would be perfect for you.

 

you really think he'd get 350-370whp out of a stage 3 stillen?

there's guys with stage 4 who can't get more than 342whp with the stillen. To my knowledge 1 or 2 people have managed to get 350whp with stage 4, and it was an expensive trial and error journey. And he'd have to spend money on the whole hood deal

 

+1!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

he already said he felt N/A Mods are a waste of money... and quite honestly for the gains a Stillen SC gives.. its one big N/A Mod.. one very expensive N/A Mod

 

Yeah I actually took a ride yesterday in a stillen stage 4 g35 sedan. While it did have much more torque and hp down bottom, it didnt have that much of a top end grunt. It wasn't enough in my opinion.

BTW, the mods I have now are Stillen TD exhaust, kinetix HFCs, and nismo intake. But obviously I wouldnt be able to use the intake.

 

I would say a S/C is your best bet. You wont have the TQ curve of a Turbo but it's more engine friendly.

 

um no.. motors go when motors go.. they go at 300 whp.. they go at 300 tq.. they go at 500.. it doesn't matter.. they go.. buying a SC isn't giving you any better chance than a TT or a ST ... if your motor is weak... your motor is weak

 

Get a procharger or vortech kit and a utec.

 

Well he’s looking for his best bet and I have heard of far less motors going with S/C then Turbo's at standard kit boost levels. I believe that if you want to even consider F/I you should be prepared to rebuild or buy a new engine but based on engine failure posts and characteristic's of how a S/C builds TQ and stresses the mechanical parts I would say go with a S/C if regardless of my belief of doing this only if you have the cash to fix a broke engine you want to do it anyway. This is just my opinion because you are right motors go when they go.....

 

please provide links to prove your point, because all the motors that have let go lately apart from Noah has been SC's and ST's..

so please provide some data


no Greddy Kits have blown motors since they found the fix... no APS TT's since the G35c from OH... Noah's JWT ... no PE TT.. please let me know

 

the procharger has blown up engines because of not reducing timing back in the early days. The stillen has blown up a couple engines for whatever unknown freak reasons - lean?

The vortech has broken ringlands on people's cars who ran too much timing and/or were running lean - and often they knew it, but still drove it hard anyway

I seem to have heard about at least "a few" turbos blowing stock blocks up though...


I do agree that not all engines are created equal and you should be able to last awhile on any setup if proper measures are taken