vortech FAQ: read this before asking vortech questions
#981
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Since the car needs a retune, i was thinking if i should invest in a kinetex ssv or pistons and rods if they are easily accessible since pulling heads anyway. Not sure if they are or not. Or maybe even a 5/16 spacer.
Last edited by Forged_G; 04-17-2010 at 03:11 PM.
#982
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you realize that unless you pull the engine it's pretty mucha ***** to change heads. Also it's a waste of money if you aren't cammed and going for 600+ hp.
doing anything to the block is a waste without going for a full built shortblock and then you should just do it all at once. You have to tear down that far to do heads anyways.
also, kinetix ssv isn't worth the money. just put a spacer in there and call it a day. It might show power increases when you need really high flow but even then if it was worth it you would see the 600-700hp guys running them. There are a lot better things to spend 800$ on.
#983
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wait, so you're actualy putting "heads" on teh car and not "headers"?
you realize that unless you pull the engine it's pretty mucha ***** to change heads. Also it's a waste of money if you aren't cammed and going for 600+ hp.
doing anything to the block is a waste without going for a full built shortblock and then you should just do it all at once. You have to tear down that far to do heads anyways.
also, kinetix ssv isn't worth the money. just put a spacer in there and call it a day. It might show power increases when you need really high flow but even then if it was worth it you would see the 600-700hp guys running them. There are a lot better things to spend 800$ on.
you realize that unless you pull the engine it's pretty mucha ***** to change heads. Also it's a waste of money if you aren't cammed and going for 600+ hp.
doing anything to the block is a waste without going for a full built shortblock and then you should just do it all at once. You have to tear down that far to do heads anyways.
also, kinetix ssv isn't worth the money. just put a spacer in there and call it a day. It might show power increases when you need really high flow but even then if it was worth it you would see the 600-700hp guys running them. There are a lot better things to spend 800$ on.
Sorry i meant headers. Ok so thats out question for now.. may want to do twins later but that will be later. I was thinking increasing manifold would also reduce pressure... what else do you recommend? I was reading that I should replace the clutch line? is that a difficult install? or easy to get to on the G?
Last edited by Forged_G; 04-17-2010 at 04:30 PM.
#984
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Sorry i meant headers. Ok so thats out question for now.. may want to do twins later but that will be later. I was thinking increasing manifold would also reduce pressure... what else do you recommend? I was reading that I should replace the clutch line? is that a difficult install? or easy to get to on the G?
reducing backpressure will reduce your boost pressure but you'll make more power. Power isn't directly related to boost pressure. stock exahust and intake with a vortech 2.87 will probably get you 13psi on a boost gauge but if you put a larger intake and more free flowing exhaust that same setup will yield more power but the boost pressure will probably be down around 11-12 psi.
if you have a stock clutch then there isn't really a reason to replace the clutch line unless you are boiling your clutch fluid somehow. I wouldn't mess with it until you replace the clutch because it's a pain in the butt to get our cars clutch bled properly.
#985
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reducing backpressure will reduce your boost pressure but you'll make more power. Power isn't directly related to boost pressure. stock exahust and intake with a vortech 2.87 will probably get you 13psi on a boost gauge but if you put a larger intake and more free flowing exhaust that same setup will yield more power but the boost pressure will probably be down around 11-12 psi.
if you have a stock clutch then there isn't really a reason to replace the clutch line unless you are boiling your clutch fluid somehow. I wouldn't mess with it until you replace the clutch because it's a pain in the butt to get our cars clutch bled properly.
if you have a stock clutch then there isn't really a reason to replace the clutch line unless you are boiling your clutch fluid somehow. I wouldn't mess with it until you replace the clutch because it's a pain in the butt to get our cars clutch bled properly.
BTW, since your so knowledgeable, a question that has perplexed me LOL, what do you recommend to get rid of the airplane noise on the BPV? i ordered the filter from Vortech but haven't installed yet.Also heard it doesn't make much of a difference. When my shop talked to Vortech, they said do not recirculate the BPV into the exhaust or intake
Last edited by Forged_G; 04-18-2010 at 06:13 AM.
#986
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Oh ok. I'll leave the clutch line alone and do that all later. For now im gonna go up to the 3.12 pulley with bolt ons and hope to make 400+ HP at 9 psi.
BTW, since your so knowledgeable, a question that has perplexed me LOL, what do you recommend to get rid of the airplane noise on the BPV? i ordered the filter from Vortech but haven't installed yet.Also heard it doesn't make much of a difference. When my shop talked to Vortech, they said do not recirculate the BPV into the exhaust or intake
BTW, since your so knowledgeable, a question that has perplexed me LOL, what do you recommend to get rid of the airplane noise on the BPV? i ordered the filter from Vortech but haven't installed yet.Also heard it doesn't make much of a difference. When my shop talked to Vortech, they said do not recirculate the BPV into the exhaust or intake
from what i've heard the filter helps some but for the most noise supression you need to line the inside of the filter with filter foam. Make sure it's porous filter foam so it doesn't impede the flow of air. That stuff absorbs noise really well.
That is what i'm going to do on mine. idle and cruise are just annoying anymore with this thing.
#987
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i'm about to do something with mine for the noise too.
from what i've heard the filter helps some but for the most noise supression you need to line the inside of the filter with filter foam. Make sure it's porous filter foam so it doesn't impede the flow of air. That stuff absorbs noise really well.
That is what i'm going to do on mine. idle and cruise are just annoying anymore with this thing.
from what i've heard the filter helps some but for the most noise supression you need to line the inside of the filter with filter foam. Make sure it's porous filter foam so it doesn't impede the flow of air. That stuff absorbs noise really well.
That is what i'm going to do on mine. idle and cruise are just annoying anymore with this thing.
BTW: I ended up with a unichip instead of the ss box. They were able to tune it finer and I also picked up a few horses. 352rwhp with 7# boost, it was 349....not that it makes much difference, but now it doesn't fall on its azz at the end of the 1/4.
#989
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unichip is supposed to be superior to the ss box which is the reason vortech started using them. I have no experience with the unichip so i couldn't comment personally on how well it works.
ss box works great for a base kit and is simple. it has a lot to be desired if someone is wanting to maximize their potential though.
#990
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Hi All from Australia ... I've had my Vortech on for a few weeks now and used this thread extensively during preparation so it's only fitting to give something back by way of my own experience.
Thanks to all the info in this thread, installation and tuning was fairly issue free. The most time consuming part was fiddling with all the piping so it would fit, especially on the plenum side. Tuning went smoothly except for running out of AFM at around 6000rpm, at which point the ECU dumps fuel. Using a MAP has helped somewhat bit it still runs a bit rich at that point. I requested a very safe tune as I track the car about once a month and summers down-under can be quite hot.
Final tune was 345 hp on a dyno dynamics dyno.
My setup...
350Z Rev.Up (motor changed under warranty at 40K miles due to oil burning issues)
Vortech V3 Sci Tuner Kit, internally lubricated
Greddy E-manage Ultimate with MAP
Nismo 480CC injectors
Walbro fuel pump
HKS oil cooler
Koyo 36mm radiator
Plenum Spacer
Tomei Extractors
HFCs with custom Y-pipe
Fujitsubo exhaust
I keep a blog on another site with a lot more info... it's on that OTHER 350Z site that you can't link to from here, the Australia section :-)
Anyway thanks everyone who posted into this thread, it's been really helpful!
Thanks to all the info in this thread, installation and tuning was fairly issue free. The most time consuming part was fiddling with all the piping so it would fit, especially on the plenum side. Tuning went smoothly except for running out of AFM at around 6000rpm, at which point the ECU dumps fuel. Using a MAP has helped somewhat bit it still runs a bit rich at that point. I requested a very safe tune as I track the car about once a month and summers down-under can be quite hot.
Final tune was 345 hp on a dyno dynamics dyno.
My setup...
350Z Rev.Up (motor changed under warranty at 40K miles due to oil burning issues)
Vortech V3 Sci Tuner Kit, internally lubricated
Greddy E-manage Ultimate with MAP
Nismo 480CC injectors
Walbro fuel pump
HKS oil cooler
Koyo 36mm radiator
Plenum Spacer
Tomei Extractors
HFCs with custom Y-pipe
Fujitsubo exhaust
I keep a blog on another site with a lot more info... it's on that OTHER 350Z site that you can't link to from here, the Australia section :-)
Anyway thanks everyone who posted into this thread, it's been really helpful!
Last edited by kam80; 04-18-2010 at 04:17 PM.
#991
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I will find out what Z Car Garage did to mine. I can only hear it between shifts at WOT. I know they put something on it to keep it quite. Other than the whistle at idle and 6k+ I don't hear anything. No jet engine sound.
BTW: I ended up with a unichip instead of the ss box. They were able to tune it finer and I also picked up a few horses. 352rwhp with 7# boost, it was 349....not that it makes much difference, but now it doesn't fall on its azz at the end of the 1/4.
BTW: I ended up with a unichip instead of the ss box. They were able to tune it finer and I also picked up a few horses. 352rwhp with 7# boost, it was 349....not that it makes much difference, but now it doesn't fall on its azz at the end of the 1/4.
Should have gone turbo.. lol
#992
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i'm pretty sure theirs is a rubber hose that attaches to the BPV then to the filter and they have it lined with filter foam.
You can purchase their setup from them. It's like 44$ or something.
#993
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Spacer, Headers, Exhaust + 2.87 pulley will put you at around 11psi. I know this never is the case but just skip the 3.12 and get the 2.87 + injectors; the only thing the 3.12 is good for is getting you to want a 2.87.
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My Z is a DD and it doesn't make any more noise than it did before I put the Vortech on it.
#999
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I have 2.87 and want to get away from it.. lol
11 psi on stock blocks is on the higher side. im gonna have my car tuned on the 3.12.. hope to make around the same 400+ RWHP but at a safer 9 psi.