binder

iTrader: (8)

That oring is a pain. I even used some rtv on it to try to get it to stay in place and nothing. I replaced it with a new one and it seemed to stay in place better.

Mine was still getting 14psi with that oring missing. I never worried much about it because it seemed like when i put it back in I never saw any increase in boost. Maybe it's not as important as it seems.

4SHIZZIL

iTrader: (10)

^ yeah with the motor swap and transport I just wonder if a pipe is loose. I expected high 420s and above to be honest but I do have headers, test pipes and true dual 2.5 Fast Intensions exhaust. I just thought that having the 2.87 with t trim would be beastly and max out my 600s. I have plenty of fuel left and duty cycel for that matter.

I guess its time to break down and install the boost gauge I have had for over 3 years. I did put in the air fuel in to the ash tray. lol. Dont forget all. I drive a 05 revup G35 6sp/mt

also as a rule of thumb the rev up kits power is about a 1lb less than non rev

like stock is 7psi vs 8

2.87 is on the stock set up was 8.8 lbs of boost not 10ish like the non revs

4SHIZZIL

iTrader: (10)

my buddy had a built motor JWT upgraded tubros around 550RWHP, stock radiator...he didnt "track" it, but he street tracked it.

but I didnt need the oil pan spacer....but I have one.

one can never be too safe.... no such thing

06daytona

but I didnt need the oil pan spacer....but I have one.

one can never be too safe.... no such thing[/QUOTE]

i agree, but i think the radiator and nismo thermostat should be enough on my cooling. im getting the v-3 unit for the revup so no need for oil pan spacer or oil cooler, i wanted to get the aps oil pan but cant find one anymore. may go with a spacer down the road just cause there cheap.

- bigc -

iTrader: (18)

and oil pan spacer and standalone oil cooler are a good idea. greater oil capacity plus lower temps make a happy motor.

binder

iTrader: (8)

Someting is wrong iwth that. 2.87 on any kit will not be 8.8lbs. A 2.87 is 12psi on a non rev so it should be at least 10psi on a rev. Matter of fact the revs on here that i've seen put over 10psi on a 2.87.


about the nismo thermostat. like any thermostat it will do ZERO to aid in cooling. all it does is allow the thermostat to open sooner. Once you hit the point of the thermostat being fully open the cooling system will run the same no matter what. No increased cooling, it only opens sooner so it will stay cooler slightly longer but not much. If your car generates enough heat to keep the coolant at 190 (which is usually the case) then a thermostat that opens at 160 or 180 won't have any effect on the cooling of that system since it will be at a temp that is already in a fully opened tstat.

Your car will never run that cool. Mine stays under 200 but over 190 all the time with my pathfinder cooling mod. i have a standard 180* tstat. Putting a 160* in wouldn't lower my operating temps.

- bigc -

iTrader: (18)

^ in defense of the nismo thermostat, part of the benefit is that it will also stay open a little longer than the stock t-stat. if you've got good flow to the radiator, this will allow lower than stock coolant temps once the car is in motion (ie. cruising with coolant at 180ish versus 195).

for the record, i'm no nismo t-stat fanboy. i have it installed, but like others have said, there's no benefit at the upper end of the temp scale once the t-stat has opened. i did notice, though, that my cruising temps are lower because the t-stat stays open longer as the coolant temp declines. its up to each individual to decide whether this benefit justifies the cost.

binder

iTrader: (8)

120$ for a thermostat that only gives benefits when you don't need them. i don't need lower temps when i'm cruising.

Optimal coolant temp for this engine is 180 anyways, hence the reason for factory 180* tstat. So technically 20* colder than optimal is just as far out of range as 20* over optimal.

- bigc -

iTrader: (18)

depends on your perspective man - as i said, its up to each individual to decide whether the benefits justify the cost. some folks think its worthwhile to spend 700 bucks on a fan shroud, while others would rather DIY or go with lower cost options. IMO, out here where its warm most of the year, lower temps anytime are a good thing. when i lived in socal, i rarely saw cruising temps below 190F on the stock t-stat, but run between 178F & 183F with the nismo. these temps are pulled from the OEM sensor on the rear coolant pipe, not at the lower radiator hose / t-stat.

also, IIRC, normal operating temp for our cars is between 158F and 212F so you're still within the range for closed loop (optimal fuel mix for cruising/normal conditions). its true that our stock t-stat opens around 180F, but if lower temps are your goal, shifting your cruising temp lower in the range seems to make sense.

binder

iTrader: (8)

oh i understand what you're saying, if it's 60 deg outside i can cruise and see low 180's on the highway, but if it's 60* outside and i'm boosting there is no way you're gonna see 180. So basically going lower would only be with no load and highway speeds, the area that none of us having trouble with cooling. We have trouble with cooling during continious WOT.

If you want cooler temps all around you can just gut the thermostat then you'll acdtually have more flow since the parts inside reduce flow even when fully open. Only worth it for track cars or cars with something wrong with them. I'm just blown away that my car stays under 200* while driving hard and it's been triple digit temps out here for the last couple of weeks. Seems like the stock cooling system is working good for me i guess

GT-ER

iTrader: (4)

You guys have to remember that the reason why the oem stat is 180 is not because that's what they wanted for optimum performance, but for optimum emissions. Going lower will only make things better with no negatives except for emissions ( within reason ). I'd love to get my temp to 160* but don't see how in this car. My temps are usually between 190-200.

binder

iTrader: (8)

You're also forgetting 160 isn't when actually driving the car for performance. That's what i'm trying to tell people. 160 on the highway does absolutely nothing for you in terms of racing or hard driving. There is no chance in hell to keep the temps down to 160 while hard driving unless you resdesign the entire cooling system and make it huge. The engine just produces way too much heat in the time it takes to dissipate that heat from the coolant. It's basic math.

You can do all you want to get temps to 100* while you're cruising on the highway, it will mean squat once you start pushing out hp under hard driving conditions.

GT-ER

iTrader: (4)

I don't know about the G35/350Z so you may be right....but on my Grand Prix I my coolant temps were always at 160* with ~400whp and me absolutely punishing it and the only thing I did to it was mod the t-stat and told the ecu to operate the fans early.

The biggest problems G35/350Zs have in the lack of radiator fan control and the ultra thin radiator. But I don't see it being impossible to do with a big enough radiator and manually controlling some very powerful fans. Additional Oil cooler would also help.

It's not a big issue for me though, I'm just happy it doesn't over heat...lol.

fowlman01

iTrader: (1)

I have manual control over my fans, but I haven't had a chance to test it in hot weather. My car gets toasty in hot weather and commuter traffic, so I want to see if this will help. I have an oil cooler and tranny cooler, but the 5AT isn't helping either.

GT-ER

iTrader: (4)

Cool, how did you do it?

fowlman01

iTrader: (1)

Z Car Garage in San Jose, CA did it. They put it in pretty quickly. It took longer to figure out where to put the switch than it did to put it in. I can turn the two fans on anytime. I sometimes turn them on between runs at the drags, but I haven't had a chance to try it on a hot day.

I will post my experience.

At the end of August I will be in 100 degree weather at 6000ft and bumper to bumper traffic. Last time I had to put it in neutral and run it at 2500 or so to cool it down.

- bigc -

iTrader: (18)

i hear ya man, and for what its worth, running completely open (no t-stat(s)) is an option for folks. i think it just comes down to how you use your car, what temps you see (oddly enough, not all cars run at the same temps), and what you want out of the cooling system. my car is my daily driver and with all the polished stuff i have in my engine i'm constantly in heat soak city. steady state & cruising temps are as important to me as when I'm at WOT, so keeping the t-stat open a little longer was worth the price to me.

binder

iTrader: (8)

wow, i must have got a good car then. I never had problems on stock block but since i have a full built block and now 6765 turbo i have a pathfinder cooling mod and oil cooler. My oil temps are still about the same as before (180-190) and my car temps are always 190-200. Today on my 3hr drive home i was getting down into the 180's on my coolant temps.

here in stl it was over 100* a few days in a row, never had a single issue with the car getting hot even while i was out boosting 14psi. I think 207* is the highest i've ever seen the temps on my car besides in april when my headgasket blew.

ya, i thought baout that on my drive. I guess keeping heatsoak down will help on that first step into boost. I'm just being a negative nancy because it takes way too much money to make any noticable changes in cooling with our cars while driving it hard. I see guys wasting money on these piddly cooling mods that really isn't helping them while they neglect important areas like proper oil cooling, proper injector sizes, intercooler sizes, etc.

fowlman01

iTrader: (1)

6000 ft elevation and a 5AT add to my problem. I don't have any problems at sea level or when I am moving fast with boost in heat.

binder

iTrader: (8)

oic, didn't realize that the elevation would increase heat that much. And would the trans really heat the engine up that much if it wasn't moving? ambient heat dissipation after driving then slowing down?