If this is one of the early production kits like the one I have their was no option for balanced or unbalanced; all of the cranks came balanced.

 

Responses from BC:

That is an 88mm stroke billet crank. It takes a custom piston from JE to accommodate for the stroke w/ the OEM length rod. We have a couple different options on the connecting rod –How much HP will the engine see ?

I answered I wanted a relieble NA motor making well under 370 hp and asked what the rods & pistons that indicated. They responded.

It would have to be JE on the pistons as CP can’t do it with a factory length rod.
$1750 for the piston and rod combo. The crank would have to be rebalanced as you are changing the pistons and rods and the BOB weight will be different.

I am confused that only JE pistons can be used. Does that make sense?

What about using different length than oem? I asked them but they did not respond.

 

well if you got the specs of the piston, anyone could custom make you a set. YOu can use any length rod as well, as long as the total dimension is the same (ie custom pistons). of course rod/stroke ratio, etc is not trivial....

$1750 is cheap for rods and pistons. I would get exactly what BC recommends for that crank.

 

Not complaining, just wondering.

I asked if I could send them the crank and if they will balance the assembly.

 

why would you bother sending it to them to balance when you have SO much other machine work to be done? Balancing is part and parcel of such work, and should be part of any engine build worth any amount of investment

just understand what you're getting yourself into and decide if its the path you want - this is easily going to be a ~ $10k engine before you get any real ancillary parts (header, ecu, etc) for it

 

I already have all of the boltons and will retune my UPREV when it is done.

I already have the crank, main and rod bearings, full ARP studs, I will order the rods/pistons as soon as they respond.

I know it won't be cheap but don't think it will be near 10k.

 

How much the rest of your project will cost depends on where you plan on going from here. Ok so you've settled on the stroke but what about the bore? the cams? the headwork? (What would be the point of stroking the bottom end whilst leaving the heads stock?) the machining and assembly costs to take everything apart and to put it all back together?

You shouldn't be surprised if you reach $10k or surpass it.

 

Right now I am resolving an oil consumption issue with the best parts I can in the bottom end. While the motor is apart I will do some work on the intake/heads but not much and no cams. Down the road I will deal with the top end.

 

I agree, this is not a cheap route to take and you guys seem to have some experience with similar builds.



I have swapped cams in the car it is a PITA and fairly time consuming for the average guy, i would do cams/head work while the engine is apart the stock cams install the same as aftermarket ones so why do it twice? Cams and springs should be under $1,500 or close to that. I would also ask Z1 auto about the advantages of over size valves and port work as well, from what I have seen they seem to be very well versed on what it takes to make power NA. It dosent make sense to build an engine then tear it apart a short time later to up grade the cams/valves new gaskets can add up quick hew head gaskets alone are $250ish as well as labor costs if you have a shop do it not to mention another tune that is my opinion/advice from my experience take it for what you will. Good luck and let us know how it goes, i like NA builds and wanted one my self at one time but the cost vs power was too hard of a pill for me to swallow.

 

I need to resolve the oil consumption issue. While I am there I decided to upgrade the bottom end. If you keep "while you are thereing" You end up with a 15k build which I don't want to do.

I am prepared to spend about 7 for now and down the road I will upgrade the top end.

 

Are you assembling and installing the engine yourself?

 

No, I have a mechanic that is doing the assembly. The issue I have is he does not trust the machine shops in the area, hence why I am looking into buying a block to send the rotating assy and it out to someone that knows these engines.

The truth of the matter is the car has enough power to get me into trouble as it sits, I don't need nor want that much more power. That is why I don't want to got involved with the expense or potential issues of FI, I just don't need the benefit (power) or the problems (tickets/blown engines/transmissions/differentials/axles).

I appreciate all the input.

 

Why are you stroking it then? There is NO WAY you can pull it off for under 10k if your paying someone to assemble and install it also, I don't have any experience with machining costs for a stroker but i think Z1 Auto knows first hand. Its stupid to do a Stroker with no cams, sure you make more TQ but it makes no sense.

My advice is if you think your Z is already quick, and are happy with it just sell the crank, with that money buy a set of good cams, build an high compression 3.5, keep it very simple and you should be able to keep it within your budget. You will likely be more happy with the car in this form than a pieced together stroker motor with stock cams (if you can even afford to complete it). I looked into this route for a long time, i myself even started buying parts for a NA build before i went Twins. I really think you should reconsider your plans...


Rob

 

also you do realize that Oil consumption doesn't harm your engine, its people who don't monitor it well enough and let the oil get low, thus spinning bearings etc. If you want a very simple and cheap fix to have a realiable car just throw an oil pan spacer on it and watch your level closely, especially since you say you are already happy with the power of the car. So why spend so much money on such little gains?

 

I agree with everything you are saying, but it drives me crazy having issues with my car. I replaced a good 3.2 motor in my Acura with a 3.5 that I stroked to 3.7 instead of doing the slightly leaking rear main seal and 105k timing belt interval that could have waited 15k miles.

My mechanic will do the job (minus machine work) including replacing the clutch for under 1400. I needed to replace the rings so why not do the pistons, If I am doing the pistons why not the crank, etc is how this has snowballed.

Right now I am getting the bottom end squared away, later I will do the rest.

There are those that would say anything but basic transportation for a daily is stupid. I disagree and that is why I have my Z.

I enjoy modding it and have improved it (outside making it much noisier) in every aspect.

If it were up to me it would not have the oc issue and I would be doing nothing to it at all. I have 3k of the extended warranty companies money and am using it to make the motor better.

 

Well IMO either do the bare minimum (oilpan spacer) or do it all, if your going to let it "snowball" to a stroker crank (by far the most expensive engine mod for a VQ35" i dont understand why would wouldnt atleast do cams, not even springs, just a set of cams. Ive seen BCs as cheap as $950 new, im not against you modding or building it, i am the same way, and used to be diehard NA. But im just saying it makes absolutely no sense to leave off cams. Save money in other ways, Use New HR Headbolts, OE Headgasket, stock valves/springs, and OE Bearings etc.

 

I already bought the ARP studs & ACL bearings so not doing them is passed.

The bearings are in my possession, ARP has a backlog so I am waiting for them.

 

What are you waiting on from ARP?

 

Head & main studs.

 

I just checked our inventory and we have dozens of sets in stock of ARP head studs, L19 head studs, and main studs if you need them sooner.