Update on the Brian Crower Stroker kit.
Block needs to be cleared in several places, and you will also need a billet girdle which will also need some modification. It really comes with the territory, when putting a stroker in a VQ35.
Sharif, for a FI build I agree with you 100%. However, for a naturally aspirated stroker build notching the stock girdle will be adequate.
Edit: What worries me more, and is kinda creepy...is we are posting in Julians thread from 2007.
Yes they still offer it actually - it's not part of their official catalog anymore, but if it's what you want, they will do it for you - but there is no advantage to it according to our direct discussions with BC. The net difference with the largest piston is 4.07 liters vs 4.15 liters - you tell me how much of a difference that will yield. That is why they introduced the slightly smaller stroke one - because it needs alot less machining (retains squirters), and will yield virutally identical power for all intents and purposes.
There never were issues with it...the issue is on the part of an installer who may be ill experienced for this type of build in the first place. A stroker is shoving 10 lbs of dung into a 5 lbs bag. Some guys know how to do this, others don't. You gotta find the machinist who knows how. The larger stroke crank will simply require alot more machine work and eliminates the factory oil squirters - which again can be compensated for in any number of ways by someone who knows what they are doing in the first place.
There never were issues with it...the issue is on the part of an installer who may be ill experienced for this type of build in the first place. A stroker is shoving 10 lbs of dung into a 5 lbs bag. Some guys know how to do this, others don't. You gotta find the machinist who knows how. The larger stroke crank will simply require alot more machine work and eliminates the factory oil squirters - which again can be compensated for in any number of ways by someone who knows what they are doing in the first place.
On Rich's engine we were able to modify the pistons and couple other changes to retain the squirters but it was not easy.
Oh well...
Last edited by Kwame; Jan 14, 2011 at 06:04 PM.
How much would you guess preparing the oem gordle? Would I be better off getting this?
https://my350z.com/forum/engine/4010...dle-249-a.html
Where is the part number hidden on the crank/box? I have nothing but this:
The label just has the specs.
https://my350z.com/forum/engine/4010...dle-249-a.html
Where is the part number hidden on the crank/box? I have nothing but this:
The label just has the specs.
Last edited by e30cabrio; Jan 14, 2011 at 06:27 PM.
This is the girdle I used for my BC stroker kit/engine.
http://www.350zmod.com/Injected-Perf...r%20vqgrdl.htm
http://www.350zmod.com/Injected-Perf...r%20vqgrdl.htm
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From: under the hood
I sent them an email with the picture.
Figured it could not hurt to ask. I am sure someone knows.
The date was my guess as well as the 88mm, but there are balanced and unbalanced versions of all part numbers and there has to be a way to tell based on something on the crank.
Thanks
Figured it could not hurt to ask. I am sure someone knows.
The date was my guess as well as the 88mm, but there are balanced and unbalanced versions of all part numbers and there has to be a way to tell based on something on the crank.
Thanks
You have no choice but to balance the whole thing
How well its balanced and to what rpm I have no idea you have to ask them.
I hope you realize what you stepped into and that it comes to fruition - it ain't going to be cheap or any adjective remotely close to cheap. As everyone has suggested you need to find a good machinist to do this who is used to doing builds of this level and guide you through your next steps and purchases.
How well its balanced and to what rpm I have no idea you have to ask them.
I hope you realize what you stepped into and that it comes to fruition - it ain't going to be cheap or any adjective remotely close to cheap. As everyone has suggested you need to find a good machinist to do this who is used to doing builds of this level and guide you through your next steps and purchases.
Last edited by Z1 Performance; Jan 15, 2011 at 01:29 PM.
I guess it works out I intended to.
:P
But that makes me wonder why buy the balanced unit when it has to be balanced as a rotating assy?
Is there "less" balancing with a balanced crank?
:P
But that makes me wonder why buy the balanced unit when it has to be balanced as a rotating assy?
Is there "less" balancing with a balanced crank?
Last edited by e30cabrio; Jan 15, 2011 at 01:24 PM.