I think I'm going with the Mobile 1 0w-40 for Oil but do you guys know what filter is good for FI? Does it really matter? I currently use PureOne with my car.

 

I would say the avoid the PurOne, simply because the media is very restrictive. It's great at filtering, but it has been shown to decrease oil pressure by restricting flow. Not such a good thing for turbos. Of course, there is the bypass valve, but then what's the point of having the filter element? Fram's orange can filters have cardboard end caps, and I just don't trust it. But some people love them because they have been shown to flow more oil- but again, then what's the point of having the filter element? Otherwise, I don't think you'll see a difference between brands. They all work about the same, but the higher end Champion Lab filters (K&N, M1) are more rugged and have a higher burst strength, if that gives you some piece of mind for the high cost.
Will

 

Believe it or not, every tech/shop/tuner/mechanic I've talked to recommends sticking with the Nissan oil filter... Go figure, but I've been told it's as good as it gets (FI or not).

 

Stick with a nissan filter, but use the one listed for the 4.0 VQ used in the pathfinder/xterra.

 

I use k&N #1008 with mobil 1 0w-40.

 

Edit
I friends working in Nissan so that is very easy to get so I guess I'm going to try with Nissan OEM.

 

Mobil 1 M-110

 

Ditto and I tell you something else car is much quieter now and seems a bit smoother after dumping motul 300 and going back to mobil one exteded perf. Change every 2k anyway could not justify 300v anymore.

 

I think it was mobile one that made longer filter than the factory. I've used it once and it had no clearance issues. worked great.

 

They all do... the one I listed above is it......

 

Someone correct me if I am wrong but doesnt the OEM nissan filter have cardboard endcaps too? As does the OEM Honda filters.

I personaly use Mobile 1 like a few of the other guys who posted above.

 

I was wondering if there is something I don't know? I just bought a Mobil one a couple days ago. This would be the second one I've bought. But the code for the filter I picked up was M1-108. That is what the book said. I know I saw it right or is there something I should know that I don't.

 

The M110 is just a bigger version of the 108 - both work. My vote is for the bigger purolator (I believe PL14610) - there is a nice web page that compares these when I was deciding. As I recall the PL unit is just as well made and a fraction of the cost... Both have much greater surface area than OEM.

 

That's good to know. I will probably go that route next time around. I figured that's what it might of been.

 

M1 0-40 and M110 FTW! (Thats what I run)

-George
GT Motorsports

 

+1 I just started using this, changed my oil yesterday and am now using Mobil 1 Euro car blend, 0w-40. My Motul oil analysis will be mailed out today

 

+1 M-110 also...I see alot of you going with the 0w-40.If I remember correctly thats for built FI cars.My motor is still stock with FI so thats not recommended,is that right?

Thanks

 

The Mobil1 0W-40 is not just for built cars, it has performed stellar in my stock VQ, with very low traces of Lead, Chromium, Copper, and Aluminum. Average results for Iron. This reflects very low wear of bearings, piston rings, and valve stems. It might be the only Mobil product I like. I wouldn't say it's the "best" oil, that's just too subjective a term, but it is probably the best performing oil you can buy off the shelf at most auto parts stores and Wal-Mart. It has shown good results in a built FI VQ as well, and seems to just be a great all-around oil that can be found for around $5 a qt. It is also one of the few off the shelf, if not the only, oils that are Porsche approved for their turbo engines, is MB 228.3 and 228.5 approved for low emissions and high wear protection for use in their SLR, and meets several other demanding specs. As such, it's pretty popular.
As for the filter, I use the Mobil 1 or K&N filter, the longer one (110) on my engine. I really think the regular Purolator is good and would use it, but I get suckered by the whole, "just spend a few bucks more for what might be extra protection, even if it's not needed" line of thought. I would use Amsoil's filters if they weren't so damn expensive, and I went for extended oil change intervals.
Will

 

How many miles did you put on the Motul, and what formula did you use? I am really curious to see the results this time around. Since you have a built engine, the UOA results probably won't be indicative of what someone else will get if they use it, but if you get a UOA of the M1 next time, then we'll have some definite comparison results to judge by.
Will