check OUT these NICE pics!!!!
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 10,740
Likes: 25
From: On a forum dedicated to Boost
Originally Posted by theking
Check valves....lol. They were a way of life in the early and mid 90's! D16 greddy turbo kit anyone! LOL. Sorry for being off topic.
greddy kits in 93? Not for hondas. Try looking for starions and old supras to steal parts from in the junk yards. lol. That or you had to have it fabricated.
Can't remember the engine code for my old accord 2 dr....2.2 litre single cam. damn weed....lol. D16 is the single cam for the civic.
greddys first honda kit was out around 94-95 for sure...
sorry kyle, not saying anything bad at all about you, i actually sent someone to you today. i just didnt know if you only build engines or do full install/tuning.
either way, i am sure you are a cool guy !!
sorry kyle, not saying anything bad at all about you, i actually sent someone to you today. i just didnt know if you only build engines or do full install/tuning.
either way, i am sure you are a cool guy !!
Originally Posted by Old School
greddy kits in 93? Not for hondas. Try looking for starions and old supras to steal parts from in the junk yards. lol. That or you had to have it fabricated.
Can't remember the engine code for my old accord 2 dr....2.2 litre single cam. damn weed....lol. D16 is the single cam for the civic.
Can't remember the engine code for my old accord 2 dr....2.2 litre single cam. damn weed....lol. D16 is the single cam for the civic.

GReddy d-series kit was the first mod i ever did to my car. I had only changed the oil before that DIY.
PS. I totally agree with Jeremy. Install and built by the same shop. it avoids all the finger pointing.
My last built motor, head built somewhere, bottom end built somewhere else and installed by someone else.
It blew within the first 500miles. I had it tuned on startup, broken in with my tuner on the road. Every precaution / oil pressure gauge / wideband. No one took any responsiblity. Bearings all looked like **** (nothing spun though), but i had the inlet valve releifs cracked off on each piston. In the end, it was the head which was oiling down the pistons due to incorrect valve guide clearences -- well thats the most believebale story i got.
Less learnt.
My last built motor, head built somewhere, bottom end built somewhere else and installed by someone else.
It blew within the first 500miles. I had it tuned on startup, broken in with my tuner on the road. Every precaution / oil pressure gauge / wideband. No one took any responsiblity. Bearings all looked like **** (nothing spun though), but i had the inlet valve releifs cracked off on each piston. In the end, it was the head which was oiling down the pistons due to incorrect valve guide clearences -- well thats the most believebale story i got.
Less learnt.
Unfortunately with something like this you always get "which came first?"
If it was a cracked crank it would have to been an internal one to pass magnaflux plus not fail sooner, in which case it woul dbe an unfortunate case of a bad crank.
But it is hard to tell what the car was actually running it unless I am misreading something:
Too many variables such as condition of parts, tuning, oil, I have not seen in the posts how much oil was in the engine when it was drained or if there was any info on oil pressure.
One way to try an rule out the crank is to send it to a lab and have them inspect it to see how the crack developed and how the crank failed, they should be able to tell if it was a high cycle or low cycle failure as well as if there was material defect.
If it was a cracked crank it would have to been an internal one to pass magnaflux plus not fail sooner, in which case it woul dbe an unfortunate case of a bad crank.
But it is hard to tell what the car was actually running it unless I am misreading something:
Originally Posted by jasonM
i did just have the boost raised to 14 psi with the procharger but do to a boost leak i was only boosting around 11psi at 5400 rpms so
i was not reving over 5400 so i was nt even pushing it
i was not reving over 5400 so i was nt even pushing it
Originally Posted by Audible Mayhem
....... by stepping up the boost to 11 psi and fully retuning the Procharged car to 400+ hp here recently and the car was running just fine. .........
One way to try an rule out the crank is to send it to a lab and have them inspect it to see how the crack developed and how the crank failed, they should be able to tell if it was a high cycle or low cycle failure as well as if there was material defect.
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