there are people with bolt on Z's with traction problems and people with turbo's Z's without..

 

nope, its actually harder to control teh fwd car. RWD , if you know what you are doing is forgiving. FWD, too much power just makes you turn a bit and launches you straight forward. A lot of srt owners including a close friend that died of mine had this problem.


That rsx has good power numbers but is more of a dyno queen 4 cylinder. One of the members on clubrsx had a 600hp GT35r daily driven rsx, and he said he can leave tire marks in 5th gear with DR's by just flooring the car and still doesn't grab traction.

I'm still a believer that the k20 motor will always be easier and cheaper to mod for high hp than our VQ engines.

 

Blah, its worthless to continue with this.

 

i agree... opposing opinions... no one wins.. the only person's opinion here that really matters is Matt's.. because he has experience with both.. i never drove a FWD with more than 300 whp .. but the ones i did drive 270 whp wern't as scary as everyone assumes.. so of course i maybe wrong with one thats 600 ..

 

I'm not 100% sure how much power my buddy has but it was a rather cool night and he didn't catch traction until the middle of 3rd. I'm guessing he's in the 250whp range.

I do have a friend that had a 500whp and he refuses to run on the street because he felt there was no point. I know of more that complain about traction... BUT I tell them high HP Z's have the same problem because they get the impression that we do.

 

Does anyone know how much a set up like that would cost? Just curious as to how it compares to a 650whp vq set up price wise.

 

::whiney voice::

but what kind of dyno is it? what correction was used? is it SAE? what was the ambient temperature?

::/whiney voice::

 

Gman2004, you'd be suprised, probably close to mid 20s. Anyone I know who is running a K-series in either an EK, or in an RSX and is putting down over 420whp (built motor, etc..) has paid over $18K. The only thing that would make it cheaper is the fact that you are paying for parts for (4) cylinders vs. (6). The labor on building the engine, installation and tuning are still there, as an hour charged is an hour charged. But, in the FWD, at those power levels (anything above 350fwhp), keep axels in the trunk, your gonna need them! Props on the car though!

 

hey, 'berto... how do you get yours to hook up? mine spins 3rd and sometimes 4th... i have 295/30 PS2s (new) and neg camber is about -2.2... i want a 2nd gear!

 

3.3 FD

 

meh....traction is overrated

 

Yeah, I know traction is a bish with that manumatic

 

yea, the honda guys think all RWD cars hook up good.

 

*** u

 

QFT

 

< -- is gonna buy a 3.3 final drive...

 

Do what most us 6mt owners do. Find a 5AT owner and do a swap. That way it will only cost you the labor for the swap or if you can do the labor yourself it won't cost you anything.

 

*lol* funny you should say this... i *just* pm'ed the only guy i know with the clutch missing (A/T) *haha* i'll see if he's interested..

 

You should know by now I dont assume anything, I started off racing a FWD car, I speak from experience. One thing is certain once you race RWD, you never wanna go back to FWD. I prefer RWD on slicks to AWD, but thats just me.

 

My camber is only slightly better, -2 in the rear. WIth the 3.5FD and 490 on Sharif's dyno I could hook when the tires were pretty new. Not anymore, even with the 3.3FD now, I can smoke them at will in 2nd, just peddle the car some in 2nd, practice it and you'll get it. I only spin into 3rd and 4th when its 50 degrees or colder out.