Mkriebs

iTrader: (1)

Now, is it truly running lean? Or is is a glitch? Can the AFR be tracked from one bank to another using your ECM (assuming you have one that is connected to a screen)... or maybe even a wideband? Are you using the stock plenum with a spacer or any aftermarket plenum that could be messing with this at all?

I'm just curious... trying to pick up as much as possible here and there.

Boozt

Just a glitch...Wideband says car is running great and in tune. I now have the APS tall boy plenum but it threw codes with the stock more often.

athenG

iTrader: (2)

yeah but most likely your WB is plugged to Bank2.. Do you have WB on both side? The only error I get is the mis-fire code...

Boozt

good point......But why only bank one???

six3mike

iTrader: (19)

Hey fellas. I'm about to pull the trigger on the STS setup. There is a lot of good info in this thread but to be honest I dont have the time to go thru all 78 pages. The bandwidth here in Iraq sucks ***. I'm still debating going with a TT kit also. So a couple of quick questions if you dont mind.

1) I have a Borla TD. Obviously that has to go, so is the Y pipe the only other thing I'll need to get to bolt it up?

2) I track my car. how will the kit handle coming out of the corners boost wise?

3) I have a TS rear diffuser (replica ), will the turbo and piping fit above it?

4) Do we maintain the dual exhaust? Most pictures come up as red X's so I cant see if anyone posted them up. I'm pretty sure the answer is yes though.

athenG

iTrader: (2)

1. If you can return to stock exhaust then it bolt right up.

2. Boozt track his car regularly so he can chime it but I think he's very happy with the performance.. (He had the Vortech before)

3. It depend how far it is.. Goosegoose has a rear diffuser on his G35 so he can chime in..

4. Yes, 1 for the turbo and one for the wastegate...

Boozt

Track power is great and very usable.

JonnyC

iTrader: (19)

Well, I just received my -9 psi BOV spring and .5 bar WG spring from forceperformance.com. I won't be installing them until next year, but I did switch over the boost reference hose to the intake tube just before the throttle body, instead of off of the compressor housing. I hit about 4.5 psi off of the WG only.

I went to switch to UTEC map 2 to run my boost map, but I must have messed something up when extending the cable for it, because it went to map 3 (which was not good). I now can't select map 2 and 4, they show as 3 and 5 to the UTEC. I know one of the wires must have got messed up, although i soldered them all. Oh well, I'll just use spots 1, 3, and 5.

But anyways, I'll let you know if things are better with the new BOV spring. Maybe if we have another warm day up here and I give it a shot.

JonnyC

iTrader: (19)

Well damn it, dropped the white -9psi spring in and nothing is different. I'll have to get a video of it in the Spring cause this is frustrating me. I might even have to hook up my boost gauge pre-throttle body to see if the pressure spikes when letting off the throttle. I also checked my vacuum line and it's all good. I'll have to get a vacuum pump or something so that I can see at what in/hg it's opening up, ugh.

Ok, so for like the 10th time so that I'm sure - when rolling into boost, hitting maybe 1-2 psi, and letting off the gas, do you hear *anything* from the rear of the car? Or do you only hear the whoosh of the BOV?

The first part of this vid, with the Tial is pretty much what mine sounds like...

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EDIT: So i started it back up again, and the BOV is opening slightly at idle. I've also been having idle issues, and when I push the MOV piston open more the car stumbles, it closes, then when it opens back up again the car wants to die. I haven't manually reset the ECU, although the battery has been disconnected many times. I thought it had to be manually reset though.

Anyways, based on some other posts on the interwebz, it seems like plenty of people have issues with their TiAL and need to step down to the -7psi spring (even though they are pulling -11 psi at idle).

athenG

iTrader: (2)

I know sometimes it is hard to distinguis a surge between a flutter. Dont worry to much unless you are hearing it on high boost..

Read this: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wastegate


Wastegate chatter myth
There is confusion in the automotive world about so called "wastegate chatter" or "turbo flutter". A noise created on lifting off the throttle in a turbocharged car, commonly described as a chipmunk or a rattlesnake, is often stated incorrectly as being a result of the turbo's wastegate closing.

The noise is in fact the air compressed by the turbo passing back through the compressor wheel of the turbo after the airflow is abruptly halted by the throttle plate closing, called compressor surge. However, in some cases, i.e. where the throttle plate doesn't open fast enough or is set up to only react to high boost, some chatter will remain. Surge can occur on diesels when the turbo is attempting to pressurize the air at a higher pressure ratio than the compressor wheel can flow at a given speed. Diesels have no use for a Blow off Valve as they do not have a throttle plate.

The chatter noise is very noticeable on World Rally Cars, where anti-lag is used.

A compressor stall like this will NOT cause excess stress or wear on the turbo's shaft or bearings, except in cases where high amounts of boost pressure are being made, above 25psi.

Actual wastegate flutter occurs instead under partial boost conditions such as partial throttle near the boost threshold. It sounds like FftFftFft not ShuShuShu and is caused by the rapid opening and closing of the wastegate at boost levels near the spring pressure. It is commonly heard more clearly and may be more prominent on cars with modified intake silencers, up-pipes, and or downpipes, and is not harmful.

JonnyC

iTrader: (19)

Here's the thing though - it's not the WG (not even close to spring pressure on WG), it's not a flutter (one solid "Chuuuu", followed by a "whoosh" from the BOV), and it is coming from the rear. It has to be "compressor surge", I just don't know how bad it is.

So do you guys not hear the same thing? Or do you simply hear a clean "whoosh" from the BOV no matter what boost level (much like the Vortech BPV)? If you all experience it, then I'm not as worried. I just have no clue mine would be any different than any other STS setup.

athenG

iTrader: (2)

At low boost I only hear a flutter... Below 3psi I pretty much just get a flutter (and it does sound coming from the rear too)but above 4psi then I hear the solid wwoooossshh. I had my turbo for over 1 1/2 year now and not a single problem. You already have a ligther BOV spring and didnt fix it.

Edit:

I had this from the beginning and I believe goosegoose has the same flutter sound on low boost too. If it was a surge then Julian would've said something about it already...lol

JonnyC

iTrader: (19)

Well, if your flutter is coming from the rear, and your turbo has lasted this long, then that puts me at ease a little. Thanks much for keeping an eye on this thread and helping me out!

EDIT: Actually, this is your car, right? I can hear the same sound that I get when you ramp it up a bit at the end...

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athenG

iTrader: (2)

I love the sound though... lol I made an edit on my last post but I'll try to listen more closely next time I drive my car.

JonnyC

iTrader: (19)

Well, I don't want to give you the same complex that I have now, haha. But yeah, I love the sound as well.

athenG

iTrader: (2)

Yeah that is mine.. You dont really hear the flutter there. At around 29sec that is my 1st gear and short shifted so that is only around 1-3psi. I usually get the flutter on higher load like 5th gear and part throttle/low boost.

Here is another video when just reving the car..

athenG

iTrader: (2)

Ok did a little driving and I only get the flutter sound below 3700rpm. If I let go of the gas above 3700rpm then I get a nice clean BOV sound even at just 2psi (Not as loud as 5+psi though). I never really payed attention to it since it doesn't sound real bad and happen in very low boost and low load.


Edit:

Got bored so I tried see how efficient our turbo.. I used the formula from Corky Bell's book (Maximum Boost) and verified my numbers from http://www.squirrelpf.com/turbocalc/ turbo calculator.

First let us do some basic calculation. I have the entire lbs/min from 1-15psi but I'm just going to post the result for 10psi. I used 10psi coz I'm assuming we are loosing 2psi from all the pipings (could be more though..)

VQ35DE 3.5 liter


Look at the Compressor Map of the 60 trim and it's efficiency at 10psi. You guys can see we are well past its efficiency rate.



Here is a compressor map of a 60-1. You can see that it is within the efficiency range.





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Goosegoose,
I believe you are running the 60-1 right? Can you give us some input on the spool performance compare to your old 60 O trim?

Here's your map at 17psi (probably 15psi on the manifold). You should see big difference compare to your old one. I think the turbo is good up to 17-18psi from the manifold.

athenG

iTrader: (2)

I think you jinx me man!!..lol I start having this error for about a couple of weeks. Never had this problem before and I have my kit for over 1 1/2 years already. The problem though is that my WB actually read lean and my idle isnt stable when this happen... Only happen though when I'm idling for a long time. I'll see if there is a leak in my exhaust that is causing this. Is your idle steady with this code?

Here's the thread I created.. https://my350z.com/forum/forced-indu...1273-code.html

goosegoose

iTrader: (8)

I'm getting the Bank 1 Too Lean code every other day. This only started when the weather started getting cold.

athenG

iTrader: (2)

You never had this problem right? But then again you have a built motor. I Never had this problem last winter Does your idle stay stable even with this error?