LMAO!!

 

jining in all seriousness take your car to get checked out. I don't wish a blown motor on anyone. I've been through it twice with my car. The down time sucks, not to mention it will set you back a nice chunk of change. Good luck!

 

what are 'correct' parameters? I have the wastegate set to S for swingarm, and target boost set to 8 psi. There arent many other settings i need to set for the thing are there? Right now it seems like my exhaust is bleeding by the wastegate because the boost just slowly creeps up to 8 psi by redline.

also how trustworthy is the knock reader in utec? It's not picking up any knock at the moment which is good, and my buddy pulled about 20% fuel out of the top end to get the air/fuel under boost to be in the low 10's instead of way below (aem bottomed out at 10.00)

thanks for any input on that!

 

YOU HAVE TO SET THE CONTROLLER UP PER THE SETUP PROCEDURE OR IT WONT WORK!!!!!!!!!!

You have to get into setup mode run the car to base boost so it learns it, the run it to a set boost and play with the corrction until it reaches that desired boost, then you have the EVC initialized and you can set whatever boost you want, otherwise the EVC is not working properly.

Please go to a shop and tuner, you are going to blow this thing up.

 

Wow..

 

So...did you end up taking it to Kito Autosport for that tune?

 

yes it was tuned already, but i was left less than satisfied by the job there.. I picked up 1 count of knock at 7300 when i missed a shift and realized it revved that high.

thanks for that info westpak, i didnt know the EVC had to 'calibrate' itself in... my friend with a greddy profec just plugged his in and turned his dial til he had the boost he liked.

 

If your are still having trouble with the EVC6 shoot me a PM and Ill give you my cell number. I can walk you through it if you'd like.

Also I would not boost the car until it gets properly tuned. What does the timing map look like right now?

Please be careful, It sucks to blow a motor, the few of us that have been there know how painful it can be.

-George
GT Motorsports

 

The vultures are circling overhead already......lol.

 

the tuner seems to have done a safe/rich tune. I'll show you my maps when i get home tonight.

Already too late on the boosting part, had to take a modded sti and evo for a walk that were laughing at me back when i was NA. No knock at any point during the pulls (friend on a laptop monitoring the utec), AFR's were below 10 to start with but my buddy tuned them into low 10's.

 

Damn dude listen to everybody, they are trying to save your motor. You should spend the 1k TO GET EVERYTHING LOOKED OVER AND TUNED, before you have to buy a new motor.

 

Motor going to go KAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAABOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOM. I wish you well my friend.

 

Thats awesome!! What psi were u at?? like 10?? You should find all the dudes that laughed at you when you were NA and walk all of them.....

 

you are joking right? you are going out and pushing this car and you dont even know what the hell is going on with it?? AFR's below 10??? did you not even look at your own dyno sheet? You upped the boost without a tune for it and you think the system got richer when you upped the boost?

please take this car to someone that knows what they are doing and save it from what you are about to do to it.

 

I guess some lessons need to be learned. This guy has gone against everything we've suggested from day one, I doubt it's going to change now.


-chris (hopes this guy has an abnormally strong stock motor)

 

Holy ****... I nearly teared!!

 

He hasn't ignored all the advice. An he's learning; you gotta give credit for sticking with it despite the risk to his motor... Just too bad he doesn't have an experienced Z shop right next to him. Lots of info on the 'net. Do your research and check everything again before boosting. Good luck.

 

guys.. i know the dyno sheet shows AFR's in the 11's, but when driving why would the wideband read sub-10 afrs? i dont know... i am taking the dyno sheet with a grain of salt and looking at what utec is telling me in real life.. i trust that over a piece of paper any day.

all you naysaysers... sorry, but how am i going against everything you say? I listen to what you guys have to say as my primary source of information, but i'm not gonna take my car in if there is nothing wrong with it and it already is tuned. (an exhaust leak wont blow my engine no matter what you say). My clutch is making abnormal noises and thats the one part that i did NOT install, so i'm taking it back to the shop that did it and having them look at it.

to all the well wishers, thanks! and ill keep you posted.

George, thanks for the offer to help figure out the HKS, ill contact you once i'm off work later tonight.

Aaron

 

Thanks man, yea I really wish there was a shop nearby. Kinda on my own out here in WA.

 

Not taking sides just being objective....

The reason the dyno can show a leaner number is for 2 reasons

1. The reading is probably from the tail pipe so that is always going to be leaner than a reading right after the turbos in the test pipes

2. Unless you are on a load based dyno you will usually be .5 AFR richer on the street due to the load.

I am more worried about the timing rather than the fuels, If he said its in the mid too low 10's across the board, that is very safe AFR. We usually tune high 10's to low 11's(Depending on EMS being used)

Failsafe: I don't know how my comment would come out as being a "vulture" I am merely trying to help him with his boost controller since it is a very complicated unit. I was one of the very first people to have this controller and I am VERY familiar with it.

Good luck Aaron,

-George
GT Motorsports