The drag race the entire community has been waiting for!!
Easy stuff to try:
1. EDIT: neutral camber better; too much negative front camber can induce oversteer
2. softer rear spring should be an easy fix and may be a very worthwhile swap for drag...
3. As you said different front tire - can someone lend you the needed wheel?
4. Did you check for even weight distribution and equal rear tire pressure? (don't mean to insult - just running through a checklist)
5. Check rear alignment - make sure it's perfect. Remember the front tires aren't going to be steering much as the rear squats and launches the car - rear alignment, tire pressure, etc. is critical.
Harder:
1. A welded rear diff? 100% lock may help it stay straight. Actually Luie's car has the ATS otherwise similar setup - you could try a pass in his car and see how it feels - if it makes a difference.
Good luck!
1. EDIT: neutral camber better; too much negative front camber can induce oversteer
2. softer rear spring should be an easy fix and may be a very worthwhile swap for drag...
3. As you said different front tire - can someone lend you the needed wheel?
4. Did you check for even weight distribution and equal rear tire pressure? (don't mean to insult - just running through a checklist)
5. Check rear alignment - make sure it's perfect. Remember the front tires aren't going to be steering much as the rear squats and launches the car - rear alignment, tire pressure, etc. is critical.
Harder:
1. A welded rear diff? 100% lock may help it stay straight. Actually Luie's car has the ATS otherwise similar setup - you could try a pass in his car and see how it feels - if it makes a difference.
Good luck!
Last edited by rcdash; Sep 8, 2007 at 05:59 PM.
Originally Posted by rcdash
Easy stuff to try:
1. more negative front camber
2. softer rear spring should be an easy fix and may be a very worthwhile swap for drag...
3. As you said different front tire - can someone lend you the needed wheel?
4. Did you check for even weight distribution and equal rear tire pressure? (don't mean to insult - just running through a checklist)
5. Check rear alignment - make sure it's perfect. Remember the front tires aren't going to be steering much as the rear squats and launches the car - rear alignment, tire pressure, etc. is critical.
Harder:
1. A welded rear diff? 100% lock may help it stay straight. Actually Luie's car has the ATS otherwise similar setup - you could try a pass in his car and see how it feels - if it makes a difference.
Good luck!
1. more negative front camber
2. softer rear spring should be an easy fix and may be a very worthwhile swap for drag...
3. As you said different front tire - can someone lend you the needed wheel?
4. Did you check for even weight distribution and equal rear tire pressure? (don't mean to insult - just running through a checklist)
5. Check rear alignment - make sure it's perfect. Remember the front tires aren't going to be steering much as the rear squats and launches the car - rear alignment, tire pressure, etc. is critical.
Harder:
1. A welded rear diff? 100% lock may help it stay straight. Actually Luie's car has the ATS otherwise similar setup - you could try a pass in his car and see how it feels - if it makes a difference.
Good luck!
Originally Posted by Alberto
If I dont figure out a tire situation Im not running my car at the track day. You get 100% of me/my car or none-still 2 weeks away, lets not jump to conclusions
Jeremy, Julian, anybody suggestions are welcome for keeping this car straight down the track. Im regretting this suspension man, the car at WOT will just start moving lanes...wait till you see the vid.
Jeremy, Julian, anybody suggestions are welcome for keeping this car straight down the track. Im regretting this suspension man, the car at WOT will just start moving lanes...wait till you see the vid.
2)Running a biased ply in the rear and a radial in the front will cause the wobble you experienced.
3)running a full slick or ET street is a bit hairy, you need to drive the car, it feels like it floats down the track.
need to stay in it and hold on..
Most likely we will run a DR for this reason..
Last edited by Julian@MRC; Sep 8, 2007 at 07:13 AM.
Originally Posted by MRC Motorsports
Actually a softer rear suspension is not what you want. You want the weight of the vehicle to transfer to the rear , yes.However you want the tires to plant firmly and evenly on the pavement.A softer suspension would allow for the wheels to camber out and cause less contact with the tire to ground.
Last edited by rcdash; Sep 8, 2007 at 07:38 AM.
thank you
Originally Posted by one350zfan
Alberto, whats your rear camber?
I have the toe bolts and camber arms. In theory, if you go to 0 degree you'll have a better contact patch. However, IMO, I think it hurts steering correction. With my old 245/60 DR's (not a true radial) I would go sideways sometimes from the 2nd to 3rd gear shift.
If your front tires are substantially wider than the rears the car has got to act funny. Basically, the front tires are acting like ski's and if you move the wheel at all during shifts than its going to whip the back out.
I now go with a 275/60/15 ET street radial and don't experience wobble.
I would:
a. Do what you said and get wider true drag radial
b. Maybe run stock 17's on the front of something more narrow
c. Work on spring rate and go to negative camber if your not already... Its got to help with steering correction.
I have the toe bolts and camber arms. In theory, if you go to 0 degree you'll have a better contact patch. However, IMO, I think it hurts steering correction. With my old 245/60 DR's (not a true radial) I would go sideways sometimes from the 2nd to 3rd gear shift.
If your front tires are substantially wider than the rears the car has got to act funny. Basically, the front tires are acting like ski's and if you move the wheel at all during shifts than its going to whip the back out.
I now go with a 275/60/15 ET street radial and don't experience wobble.
I would:
a. Do what you said and get wider true drag radial
b. Maybe run stock 17's on the front of something more narrow
c. Work on spring rate and go to negative camber if your not already... Its got to help with steering correction.
Now its stiffer suspension. 27X10.5" slicks, and these slicks look to be as wide as myfronts which are only 255's, my 11.5" slicks aired up would be slightly narrower than my 285's. That may be what your describing above-cuz its def the worst after shifts and approachingpowerband as the car starts coming around under WOT. I need to look into ANOTHER set of wheels/tires and rebuilding my axles. We will see-thanks again for the info great suggestions.
Originally Posted by eagletanggreen
Stayed in it!
Originally Posted by MRC Motorsports
1) What tire pressure in the slicks? Anything under 15-16 psi I was all over the track also..
2)Running a biased ply in the rear and a radial in the front will cause the wobble you experienced.
3)running a full slick or ET street is a bit hairy, you need to drive the car, it feels like it floats down the track.
need to stay in it and hold on..
Most likely we will run a DR for this reason..
2)Running a biased ply in the rear and a radial in the front will cause the wobble you experienced.
3)running a full slick or ET street is a bit hairy, you need to drive the car, it feels like it floats down the track.
need to stay in it and hold on..
Most likely we will run a DR for this reason..
2. I know-didnt think it would be that bad though-as I mentioned wasnt an issue with TN
3.Ive done that with #2, nobody would stay in this set-up unless they didnt care about hitting the wall...
Originally Posted by coachk
You are invited anytime to race with me...That is the correct answer. Julian also knows what he's talking about.You get out of it and you'll KISS the wall. I was going to answer Berts question but I don't think he likes me anymore, since there's only one guy in Florida who knows what he's talking about....(JT that is definitely no disrespect to you)...
Originally Posted by rcdash
His 14 kg spring is really stiff though - I definitely agree a more neutral camber for max traction. I was still thinking a stiff spring - maybe the spring from his older Tein Flex... Alberto, I am really not sure if you can damage your coilovers running a spring way out of spec (but I would think if you had your Tein Flex springs laying around - 10 kg? - it might help quite a bit).
Originally Posted by coachk
You are invited anytime to race with me...That is the correct answer. Julian also knows what he's talking about.You get out of it and you'll KISS the wall. I was going to answer Berts question but I don't think he likes me anymore, since there's only one guy in Florida who knows what he's talking about....(JT that is definitely no disrespect to you)...
Last edited by eagletanggreen; Sep 8, 2007 at 09:12 AM.
Originally Posted by Alberto
LOL-that is not true. Cant people have disagreements online without taking it personal? one350zfan helped tremendously, believe me something is up when at WOT the car is pulling fast towards the other lane, staying in it would of been worse.
VIDEO below
Lookiong at this vid over and over-I Can see a few things. With my TN set-up Id shift then both hands on the wheel. Now I dont have as much time between shifts one hand steering isnt that great. I need seat time...
I roasted the tires the first run I guess you need to REALLY heat up new slicks. Second run I did what I thought was a good burnout, and it still spun, I ended up going about 80% throttle when I felt it start to spin. Ok, comments, suggestions, or just make fun of me
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qe8bBfMi6uw
coach-I think one350zfan hit it on the head when he said the wide fronts compare to the rear would act like skis, the SMALLEST steering input would be multiplied weith these slicks compared to the old ones.
BTW-this is my new "slow" lift throttle shifting
I roasted the tires the first run I guess you need to REALLY heat up new slicks. Second run I did what I thought was a good burnout, and it still spun, I ended up going about 80% throttle when I felt it start to spin. Ok, comments, suggestions, or just make fun of me
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qe8bBfMi6uw
coach-I think one350zfan hit it on the head when he said the wide fronts compare to the rear would act like skis, the SMALLEST steering input would be multiplied weith these slicks compared to the old ones.
BTW-this is my new "slow" lift throttle shifting
Last edited by Alberto; Sep 8, 2007 at 09:53 AM.
Originally Posted by Alberto
Lookiong at this vid over and over-I Can see a few things. With my TN set-up Id shift then both hands on the wheel. Now I dont have as much time between shifts one hand steering isnt that great. I need seat time...
I roasted the tires the first run I guess you need to REALLY heat up new slicks. Second run I did what I thought was a good burnout, and it still spun, I ended up going about 80% throttle when I felt it start to spin. Ok, comments, suggestions, or just make fun of me
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qe8bBfMi6uw
coach-I think one350zfan hit it on the head when he said the wide fronts compare to the rear would act like skis, the SMALLEST steering input would be multiplied weith these slicks compared to the old ones.
BTW-this is my new "slow" lift throttle shifting
I roasted the tires the first run I guess you need to REALLY heat up new slicks. Second run I did what I thought was a good burnout, and it still spun, I ended up going about 80% throttle when I felt it start to spin. Ok, comments, suggestions, or just make fun of me
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qe8bBfMi6uw
coach-I think one350zfan hit it on the head when he said the wide fronts compare to the rear would act like skis, the SMALLEST steering input would be multiplied weith these slicks compared to the old ones.
BTW-this is my new "slow" lift throttle shifting
On a side note, what is the width of the rim in relation to the tire?And are you running tubes?
And watching the videos of you driving your car when you roasted the tranny..Your gonna whoop my a$$..
Originally Posted by Alberto
Lookiong at this vid over and over-I Can see a few things. With my TN set-up Id shift then both hands on the wheel. Now I dont have as much time between shifts one hand steering isnt that great. I need seat time...
I roasted the tires the first run I guess you need to REALLY heat up new slicks. Second run I did what I thought was a good burnout, and it still spun, I ended up going about 80% throttle when I felt it start to spin. Ok, comments, suggestions, or just make fun of me
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qe8bBfMi6uw
coach-I think one350zfan hit it on the head when he said the wide fronts compare to the rear would act like skis, the SMALLEST steering input would be multiplied weith these slicks compared to the old ones.
BTW-this is my new "slow" lift throttle shifting
I roasted the tires the first run I guess you need to REALLY heat up new slicks. Second run I did what I thought was a good burnout, and it still spun, I ended up going about 80% throttle when I felt it start to spin. Ok, comments, suggestions, or just make fun of me
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qe8bBfMi6uw
coach-I think one350zfan hit it on the head when he said the wide fronts compare to the rear would act like skis, the SMALLEST steering input would be multiplied weith these slicks compared to the old ones.
BTW-this is my new "slow" lift throttle shifting
