You have the U1000 code? There are fuseable links in the engine bay as well, get those checked.

 

There was no amp in the car just wires taped except one that was attached to a quick discount harness for the amp. So if anything were to blow it would be the fuse from the power source (battery). The fans being splice into my stereo amp explains that winey sound I was getting after I got the car back.

 

I have no codes or CEL. all fuses are good to go.

 

I really dont think it was the stereo. I drove all weekend long at Z days like this in my car and have done 3 track events, and 80 freaken 1/4 passes with the stereo in the status, and no problems.

 

I was thinking the fans plugged into the OEM fan plugs.

 

I am sure he is on it as we speek!

 

Stereo Install 101:
Tapping major aftermarket accessories into power wires of stereo systems will cause radio interference

 

I guess that needs to fixed.

*****! I am going to get soo Phucken drunk tonight.

 

If there are open spots I may consider renting an 07. I've seen them on a lot on my home from work today. More then likely automatics, but still better then running three times in my car and calling it a night.

Julian, if you're giving your spot away, please let me know.

 

no codes but the car won't start?

 

Well considering everything draws power from the battery, at some point this is hard to avoid, yes? And 12V DC power typically does not cause radio interferance. Proper grounding is the key to avoiding ground loops and the associated hum or whine. As stated above, properly sizing fuses for audio equipment is also important - there's no point them being there if they are too large. Keep in mind that a fuse will generally allow up to twice its rated amps for a short time.

Troubleshooting electrical problems is just a process of elimination - tedious but not impossible. That said, you're taking Sharif away from tuning my car, so I hope he happens upon a solution quickly.

 

This is starting to suck with everybody having all these issues.I hope everybody can still make the event,and congrats jullian on the soon to be new addition to the mrc family.

 

Yep! The car will crank evrything works stereo gauges no Cel light, But the Fcon and the Ecu is not getting any power (ecu not getting power so you know the Fcon wont either. If any one has a plan of attack on this chime in as they are going to tear up the car tommarrow.

 

I assume a continuity test between the ECU connector power signal and the battery terminal is a no go. Then you just have to systematically work your way backwards... Attached is the relevant pages for my 04 G35 coupe (I think should be the same for you).

 

RC
Your hella of a smart guy... Any reason why you didnt do your engine build yourself?

 

the power to those high output fans,i would assume is powered by an ignition hot circuit you need to follow that back to the ignition,once you can confirm circuit is good and ignition switch sends power out to the computer hots you need to follow them to the pcm.there is more than one hot to the ecm so you need to confirm all.hot comes in on more than one circuit so you may have to chase the constant hot circuit as well.

 

Why cant you run the car without nitrous? It runs on the street without nitrous correct?

 

I know I am asking alot, but some pics or diagrams would help us out soo much and also speed up some of the process, I dont want to take all the techs time working on my car.

 

We did not splice into the power wire for the amp. Power for the fans come directly from the positive battery terminal, which the stereo shares. The fans have a 18-19 amp draw, and we used a 20 amp fuse....nothing usual.

We'll get to the bottom of this. Eagle just needs to stay off the internet, and let us do our job.

 

OK Dad!

Just trying to save you guys some time.