Read up on this for Berts impressions of the 3.3 FD.
https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....ighlight=3.3fd

 

Not yet broken in. This weekend I hope . Figure 8s here I come.

 

You are correct - so far. There are two primary factors to take into consideration. The first is that the 3.5 gears add about 6% extra torque to the wheels in every gear. So while two similarly equipped cars are in the same gear, the one with the 3.5 ratio will have the advantage. Now if because of the shorter gearing, the 3.5 car has to shift first, then he takes a sizeable hit in torque output at the next higher gear while the 3.3 catches up whilst approaching redline for one gear lower. If you can raise the redline you can offset some of the disadvantage of shorter gearing. I would have preferred to stay at 3.3 and even looked at 3.133 gears, but it was too problematic to get that and the Carbonetics or Quaife LSD.

 

In theory the 3.5 should be faster than the 3.3FD. Ive had the pleasure of racing a handful of built high hp (same or higher than mine) cars. All of them had the 3.5FD, and even from an initial hit, Id jump out and proceed to pull to limiter. They fall on shifts as Im still pulling to redline and by the time I shift to the next gear Im gone. Even Luie's JWT 850 TT beast couldnt stop my cars pull in 5th gear. And even when we switched cars he pulled out on me (him in my car) at the top of 4th and into 5th. For 500+whp IMO with a Greddy or APS kit, a 3.3FD is an AWESOME mod. AND-2nd gear is very usable and both Luie and jkenefic loved it in my car when driving it. What good i spower if you cant put it down? Its not

 

Hmmm....good call. Thank you for your experience. So, the answer to this if one were to stay with the 3.5FD gearing, would be to raise his rev limit to in order to match the pull of a equal car that is running the 3.3FD gearing. It's crazy that in theory it's suppose to be slower, but in reality, you are pulling on the 3.5FD equipped cars.


Wonder how the 3.3FD would work in drifting though, as that is my primary purpose with the car. That and Time Attack.

 

3.3's.

I think the 3.9s are great for Sc's and some NA builds and even NA.

Good luck

Chris

 

I wouldnt go with a Greddy kit at even 6psi and mate it to a 3.9FD. Keep it 3.5FD up till 500whp IMO. Ive driven a TN car with 400whp and a 3.3FD and it felt pretty damn slow, just didnt have the powerband to pull from lower rpm's and never really "woke up." For drifting, especially in 40-60mph range, the 3.3FD with raised limiter would be bad a$$, 2nd gear is very long and very usable for applying power. But remember, Im only recommending the 3.3FD for quick spooling TT kits, JWt 550/700, APS standard, and Greddy. Having owned a TN and driven a 700whp JWT 850, those cars dont have broad enough powerbands to make use of it, and in those cases the 6% reduction of TQ would cause the car to dog down due to the higher point of hitting full boost.

 

Anyone running 3.7 and boosted?

 

Why do you insist on shorter gearing with a Greddy kit!?! It is worthless, even for drifting stock gearing is plenty to break loose with 350+whp....

 

Me? I'm not insisting on shorter gearing. I'm just asking for knowledge sake. I probably won't even change my gearing, just increase the rev limit a tad instead.


PS....I plan on Going GReddy TT by the way.

 

I'd be interested to see a SFR Kit with the 60-1 hifi's running say a 3.7 gear

 

i was asking about running the greddy kit with my current gearing 3.9 becasue i dont want to be runnng 9 psi on the stock block/internals. im looking to keep it all in one peice till im ready to build and i ws thinking that my lower gearing will make up for the 3.5psi i wount be running so i can be nicer to my engine till its built.

 

i got the idea from my frinds dad who runns an 88 mustang with 3.9 in the rear running 14psi with slicks and omg is it crazy.