Robert_K's JWT TT Build Thread
01-18-2008, 05:09 PM
#201
Originally Posted by SmokerZ
ahhh im HOPING to my JWT TT kit installed by august 1!!!!!
so you are definetly going with the 255lph pump as well as the 500+ injectors?
when you get it going, could you let me know if those are "overkill" or if they are perfect, please?
im making my shopping list soon and would like to know about injector sizes as well as if the pump is too much. thanks!
Adam Z.
so you are definetly going with the 255lph pump as well as the 500+ injectors?
when you get it going, could you let me know if those are "overkill" or if they are perfect, please?
im making my shopping list soon and would like to know about injector sizes as well as if the pump is too much. thanks!
Adam Z.
If you plan on running more boost than the stock wastegates (6.8psi) than I would upgrade to the larger fuel pump and injectors.
I think the 600cc are overkill but I went with those cause DW no longer offers 550cc. 440cc will be good for a couple pounds extra of boost.
01-19-2008, 06:27 AM
#202
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Originally Posted by Robert_K
First congrats!!! I think the JWT is one of the best TT kit available.
If you plan on running more boost than the stock wastegates (6.8psi) than I would upgrade to the larger fuel pump and injectors.
I think the 600cc are overkill but I went with those cause DW no longer offers 550cc. 440cc will be good for a couple pounds extra of boost.
If you plan on running more boost than the stock wastegates (6.8psi) than I would upgrade to the larger fuel pump and injectors.
I think the 600cc are overkill but I went with those cause DW no longer offers 550cc. 440cc will be good for a couple pounds extra of boost.
01-19-2008, 09:27 PM
#204
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Other than the gauge set-up looking like it costs more than the kit itself for someone running a stock kit, and the oil cooler kit, you seem to be on the right level for getting your car an easy 350whp.
01-19-2008, 09:37 PM
#205
Originally Posted by iceagetlc
Other than the gauge set-up looking like it costs more than the kit itself for someone running a stock kit, and the oil cooler kit, you seem to be on the right level for getting your car an easy 350whp.
01-19-2008, 10:11 PM
#208
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robert at low boost levels your z should be ok without a built motor. but dont get boost happy and turn it up just for one second cuz then you WILL be buying your new motor
01-19-2008, 10:18 PM
#209
Originally Posted by TheBlackPearlZ
robert at low boost levels your z should be ok without a built motor. but dont get boost happy and turn it up just for one second cuz then you WILL be buying your new motor
Thanks! Fully aware of that and have preached it myself.
01-19-2008, 10:27 PM
#211
Originally Posted by iceagetlc
Looks like I have another "phat04350z" in my thread.
Last edited by Robert_K; 01-19-2008 at 10:41 PM.
01-19-2008, 10:46 PM
#212
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Originally Posted by Robert_K
https://my350z.com/forum/showpost.ph...&postcount=207
Looks like I have another "phat04350z" in my thread.
Looks like I have another "phat04350z" in my thread.
Good luck, though. Sucks you're off right after and can't enjoy it.
01-20-2008, 04:16 AM
#213
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Originally Posted by Robert_K
https://my350z.com/forum/showpost.ph...&postcount=207
Looks like I have another "phat04350z" in my thread.
Looks like I have another "phat04350z" in my thread.
01-20-2008, 04:23 AM
#214
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Originally Posted by SilverSurfer03
who or what is phat04350z? Don't understand that comment. Good luck with your build. How long is it going to take you to build it?
The issue with phat has been resolved..if you want to know, read back through the thread, otherwise it needs to be dropped..
Hey Robert..another day closer to being home...
01-20-2008, 05:21 AM
#216
Originally Posted by istan
Btw, there are less expensive oil coolers out there. You kinda pay alot for a name with the Stillen. I pieced mine together using Summit and a local race car parts store.
....and the power steering cooler was an Earl's unit!! 
I was very dissapointed. 
Had I known I could have pieced together these kits myself, and probably for less!!! They are all quality pieces but I thought I was getting coolers MADE by Stillen. Oh well.
01-20-2008, 06:07 AM
#217
RE: Dual A/F gauges
ROBERT_K
I have been reading your thread with great interest. We have gone about adding F/I in an almost identical manner. I got my JWT TT installed in August '07 and have many of the same accessories you do. I am curious about one thing however; it seems the notion of using dual A/F gauges was not well received in this thread. Knowledgeable people (some with +25 yrs racing experience) have told me they think there are benefits to be gained. Not knowing all the technical aspects I would venture to say having dual A/F gauges with one gauge for left and right banks makes alot of sense. The purpose as given to me is to be able to spot instantly if there is a significant difference in readings between the two. This can alert you to detonation, fuel starvation and ECU problems just to name a few. Especially when you have a F/I system on a stock block as we both do these are critical. I have not purchased my A/F gauges yet, but I WILL do so. A blown block IS NOT in my future. Just my 2c.
I have been reading your thread with great interest. We have gone about adding F/I in an almost identical manner. I got my JWT TT installed in August '07 and have many of the same accessories you do. I am curious about one thing however; it seems the notion of using dual A/F gauges was not well received in this thread. Knowledgeable people (some with +25 yrs racing experience) have told me they think there are benefits to be gained. Not knowing all the technical aspects I would venture to say having dual A/F gauges with one gauge for left and right banks makes alot of sense. The purpose as given to me is to be able to spot instantly if there is a significant difference in readings between the two. This can alert you to detonation, fuel starvation and ECU problems just to name a few. Especially when you have a F/I system on a stock block as we both do these are critical. I have not purchased my A/F gauges yet, but I WILL do so. A blown block IS NOT in my future. Just my 2c.
01-20-2008, 07:46 AM
#218
Originally Posted by Robert_K
Motor build aren't needed on 7lbs or 9lbs of boost.
Just playing devils advocate in my previous response as well as this one. You really want to do it "correctly", I could pick apart your list a bit and building the motor would one thing...
Return style fuel system vs injectors and a pump
proper EMS - :cough: Fcon :cough:
The JWT clutch is a joke IMHO.... yes I have driven one. Why not do it correctly and get a multiface carbon clutch?
Do you plan on keeping your UR pulley and risk your motor.. maybe swap it out after it has taken out your oil pump?
Keeping the Stealin exhaust? Why not a proper APS or compairable exhaust designed to flow for boosted setups?
While I agree that your build is pretty decent.... get off your high horse that this is the "correct" way to do a build.
edit: And any build involving an SSQV is definitely not "correct" by any stretch of the imagination
Last edited by Zivman; 01-20-2008 at 07:48 AM.
01-20-2008, 08:18 AM
#219
Originally Posted by Zivman
I wouldn't entirely say that. While I think a stock motor can handle some boost and be decently reliable to boot; I would say a complete build would probably be the "correct" way to handle boost.
Just playing devils advocate in my previous response as well as this one. You really want to do it "correctly", I could pick apart your list a bit and building the motor would one thing...
Return style fuel system vs injectors and a pump
proper EMS - :cough: Fcon :cough:
The JWT clutch is a joke IMHO.... yes I have driven one. Why not do it correctly and get a multiface carbon clutch?
Do you plan on keeping your UR pulley and risk your motor.. maybe swap it out after it has taken out your oil pump?
Keeping the Stealin exhaust? Why not a proper APS or compairable exhaust designed to flow for boosted setups?
While I agree that your build is pretty decent.... get off your high horse that this is the "correct" way to do a build.
edit: And any build involving an SSQV is definitely not "correct" by any stretch of the imagination
Just playing devils advocate in my previous response as well as this one. You really want to do it "correctly", I could pick apart your list a bit and building the motor would one thing...
Return style fuel system vs injectors and a pump
proper EMS - :cough: Fcon :cough:
The JWT clutch is a joke IMHO.... yes I have driven one. Why not do it correctly and get a multiface carbon clutch?
Do you plan on keeping your UR pulley and risk your motor.. maybe swap it out after it has taken out your oil pump?
Keeping the Stealin exhaust? Why not a proper APS or compairable exhaust designed to flow for boosted setups?
While I agree that your build is pretty decent.... get off your high horse that this is the "correct" way to do a build.
edit: And any build involving an SSQV is definitely not "correct" by any stretch of the imagination
- Fuel Return System, Not needed for an owner not upping the boost considerably
- Proper EMS... JWT comes with a Spark Timing Control Module that many owners have used w/o problems. Also not every city has a Certified HKS FCon vendor/tuner therefore you have to go with what you can tune with.
- JWT a Joke!
This is a personal opinion. Once again many owners are using the JWT w/o problems or concerns. Mulit-plate carbon clutch? This is my daily driver. I like my left leg/foot not to be numb or tired from pushing a multi-plate clutch down after a small traffic jam- UR Pulley has been a concerned of mind and will be discussed with my builder. However I think there are several members F/Ied w/ a lightweight pulley
- Proper exhaust? Why APS? Just cause they make a turbo kit for the Z? Once again this is a personal preference opinion. The Stillen (correctly spelled) is just fine for my build.
- High horse and correct? WTF!!
Kiss my Irish ass! - Refer to above as far as the SSQV. This subject was covered a couple pages back.
See the problem is that most members here are about bragging what numbers they made and how fast they can drive a 1/4 mile in a straight line. Well two things about me... I don't need numbers to impress & drag racing doesn't prove you can drive. My build is about a car I can drive to/from work and hit the real race track (That would consist of right AND left turns) on the weekend. So having a 500+hp car isn't want I'm going for. So maybe YOU need to get off YOUR high horse and take into consideration that not everyone wants a car like the next. [/rant]
EDIT: Maybe you should visit AAM and read up on the JWT kit. Pay close attention to; "Recommended options if you want to run between 7.5psi and 9psi with a boost controller:" and tell me if I need a built motor or FCON.
Last edited by Robert_K; 01-20-2008 at 08:21 AM.
01-20-2008, 08:27 AM
#220
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To say that the engine will be good for 7# to 9# and you feel confident. Good luck. Some engines might be able to handle 9+# and some might destroy itself well before that. Alot has to do with the tune and the rest is a crap shoot on how close the rod strength meet or exceeeded spec.
To comment on the dual widebands. While this is a street machine, a dual wideband should be considered. There are 2 seperate banks and only 1 sensor, sonthing does not make sense to me there. I would want to know what each bank is doing. Your build and ultimately your money. I would take the advise from z350boy and that phat04350z to be safe and monitor each bank seperetly
EDIT: Wish you alot of luck and future enjoyment with your car. So you are not doing the build up yourself?
To comment on the dual widebands. While this is a street machine, a dual wideband should be considered. There are 2 seperate banks and only 1 sensor, sonthing does not make sense to me there. I would want to know what each bank is doing. Your build and ultimately your money. I would take the advise from z350boy and that phat04350z to be safe and monitor each bank seperetly
EDIT: Wish you alot of luck and future enjoyment with your car. So you are not doing the build up yourself?