Looks good Luie - thanks for posting pics. Any issues putting the electrical relays that close to the opening? I don't imagine that vapors would leak out in that area, but just double checking... I'd be a little worried about the tiny spark across the contacts if there happens to be fuel vapor escaping. I don't know if typical automotive relays are air tight.

 

I am sure it not issue, or Joe would have not install them there. Heck I have seen people put big stereo amps in that location and those have more chance of electrical spark. If that was the case I think we would have seen a couple Z's up in flames.

 

I would think that if there were enough fumes present to ignite, you'd be smelling it for a while first.

 

A need for twin pumps? Probably because a single walbro on stock voltage is basicly maxed out over 600wheel DD, or atleast I know mine is. And lou is going for 700+wheel

 

L's fuel system was pretty much at/beyond the limit when we tuned it last. I start getting a little worried after 600whp with the single walbro, as they were never designed for those type of sustained power levels. Without resorting to some less elegant solutions, such as voltage boosters, or x:1 FMU's, the twin pump is the perfect solution for the ultra high powered setups.

Nice work Joe....can't wait to tune this beast again!

 

Your already making the top of the list for stupid comments of 2008

Luie-looks great, Joe like always good work man!

 

Did you skip doing the CJM stage 2 hardline and just use a SS braided feed line? any reason why

 

Honestly... I did not notice that I put the pump assembly back in with the pumps switched... Charles, if you think that will be an issue then I will open it back up and switch them around. Fitting the assembly down in to the opening of the tank was tight, but I got it in there with the level sensor scraping on the way in. Could be interesting getting it back out, but I am sure it can be done. I know you have already addressed this issue in the next production run, but the clearance was not as bad as I thought it would be. Also making sure that the syphon tube did not get tangled up in the level sensor float was tricky, but a long srew driver made it easier.

I had to find a fuse for the 10 gage power wire that was ran to the pumps, I stole the one from my car that was 40 amps, which I will change when I can get the correct amp rating. But the car started right up, did not even have to make an adjustment to the FPR... Gas level is reading properly as far as I can tell.

As for how loud the pumps are... You can def tell you have something going on in the gas tank now!

Only other thing I was thinking of adding was a skid plate where the -6AN to -8AN Y fitting is. It is all tucked up in there pretty well, but maybe a good idea to make a little stainless steel shield to protect that in the event of a impact. Other than that I am happy with the install, the CJM pump assembly is a work of art! Now it is Sharif's turn to work his magic. Dyno is scheduled for the 18th of this month, I am sure the results will be posted shortly after.

 

The rest of the system is an old school version of the AAM system.

The system runs 2 -6AN that Y to an -8AN then back to 2 -6AN to feed each rail. Then I also switched the AAM -4AN return for a -6AN return.

You could run 2 -6AN all the way to the front of the car (one to each rail), but after speaking to Charles on the phone he suggested to run a single -8AN/-10AN with Ys at the ends. Who am I to question the guy who designed the thing? lol

 

...


Philthy..... I am applying for "Trade Mark" on the word Voodoo , alot of people are starting to believe in it

 

/\
+1

 

I definitely plan on stopping by for that, should be interesting.

 

Thanks for that!!!!!

This thing was a pain in the a$$ to design. Once I had the basic concept down I tried my best to make it look good within the confines that I had to deal with.


Brandon

 

kudos to joe and luie for the pics! and kudos to charles for answering / solving a major problem for high HP Z's on pump... nothing but respect for all of you continuing to push the envelope...

 

All i can say is it looks real sweet luie.And great job installing it joe.

 

i wouldnt say its extremely important without testing evidence. the problem it could potentially cause and to watch for would be: when the tank is around half tank, when the drivers side is empty, it could possibly cause cavitation by injecting some air into the bottom of the canister. listen to the pumps at idle for a difference in sound or fluctuation in fuel pressure when the driver side is empty and the siphon is no longer drawing fuel over the saddle

 

This is true, and if this is going to be a roadcourse car I would worrie about high g-force turns (especially sweepers). Hopefully they won't / don't suck air causing a (air pocket) lean spike. Let us know how it all works out.

Good luck and very clean install Joe.

 

I am sure it's not going to be an issue.

 

You still have your ride, or a new snake?

 

Cool, that sounds great then. I know on our Time Attack car (and some of the other cars we have ttracked hard) we need to maintain about 1/3 of a tank or more just so we do not experience fuel sloshing away from the pick-up. I guess that's what 4 G's will do to you on a stock pick up point. Hope there isn't any unforseen problems with this route.