Order parts and they will come

 

Would there be a high probability of failure on an otherwise stock car with an installed Greddy TT ( ~ 375whp; by a reliable shop -Forged,PerformanceFactory) if one were to run it to 100,000 mi? Or that's unlikely to reach that mileage on a stock block? Is there still quite a high risk of the FI install?
I've read things go both ways..people have really used their car 20k+ miles and others' have had issues..

 

+1 And Sharif, why do you just leave GA and move Forged to Chicago! lol

 

I've seen quite a few stock block Zs pushing 9-10psi without problem. All eventually built the motor....none of which were blown. As long as you have a good tuner and are running a good EMS like the VPRO, I say go for it.

 

Good point. The two stock block cars running 12-14psi we did, both were running FCON's.

 

I have been ordering parts, some of them have just taken their time getting in.

I have most of the custom stuff in already. If you are getting a new block, let me know. I need some stock parts.

 

Dyno numbers aside...........We have run 9 to 9.5 psi on all of our cars safely and have not had any issues. And we do it on 91 octabe. Ofcourse this is with a good tune and I know Sharif will give you a good tune

 

So Sharif, are you saying that 9 psi would be "do-able" if i was to only run it every once and awhile?


I guess my main question is which (boost pressure or whp) is more of a concern. For example would a Z running 10psi making 380whp be more in danger of blowing a motor than a Z running 7.5 making 405whp?

I know that more pressure creates more heat which leads to a higher rate of failure.

 

Tim, how much power are you guys making on a dynojet at these boost levels?

 

Add some methanol injection and you can easily get 50whp with your current boost level and be just as safe.

 

450-460WHP.Stock engine, cams, heads, plenum, etc.......but with dual 3" exhaust

 

Why risk it now? if you have plans of doing a full build in the summer just wait it out. Then you will have the power + more and a usable core to make some money on.

 

Exactly. Inlet pressure is nothing compared to combustion chamber pressure. So the power number is what I look at, in gauging safety, rather than boost pressure. The way Tim's kit was generating airflow...1-2psi is going to add rouhghly 30-40whp. Lets do it.....but just use it sparingly, and keep it on low boost most of the time.

 

And just to add to what Sharif is saying.........I have been running my car at these boost/power levels for 35K miles.Sometimes I run it a bit higherif the need arises The stock motor is sitting at 60k right now.

 

Go for it!

 

Damn I want a built motor. . .I want more power already, but not going to chance my block to get it. Hope it goes well for you.

 

i wouldnt risk it, imo. paying 1500 bucks on top of building your motor just to add 50whp isnt worth it. build the motor, then get nutty. this is the same reason why i didnt have a ebc on my stock block setup. i would have been pissed if i blew my motor because i wanted to push the stock block envelope. 1500 bucks can buy you a nice clutch, exhaust, or lsd. ultimately its your choice.

 

rods no likey

 

Good tune or not, you will be exerting more stress on the rods (obviously a better tune will minimize this increase). You may have a "lucky" set of rods, but you're running them over spec already. You are shortening their lifespan -no way to know by how much exactly... Some people get away with tens of thousands of miles, others just hundreds at xxx whp. Metal fatigue is a stochastic process and is cumulative. In other words, it is unpredictable, and stress incurred at high boost is not reversible by turning the boost back down. A rod might let go at low boost at virtually no load if it has finally reached its cumulative limit of stress it can handle.

Sharif's recommendation to only occasionally bump up the boost when "needed" is a great way to minimize the chance of failure if you decide to go for it. Good luck.

 

Just do it!! NIKE..